Help! Engine noise diagnosis needed. (2 Viewers)

[Super77]

Cold start this afternoon. After the initial high idle, it settled into a smooth low idle and this noise started up:



It was pretty loud when I took the video, I turned off the engine and on restart it’s a little quieter but consistent. Sound like it’s coming from close to the front of the engine, on the cold (driver) side but I’m not sure. Not belt slip, sound more like a bearing failing. Water pump? It’s 15 years and 45k miles old, Toyota part.

I had degreased and rinsed the engine just prior, it was cold when I did that and I only used about 3-4 cups of water, carefully with a compressed air sprayer wand. Engine was a little wet when I started it up, but 95% sure no water got into anything critical.

Troubleshooting suggestions?

 

[Super77]

Restart after letting it sit for 20 min



The video is about 90 seconds. Spoiler: sounds normal now, nice quiet low idle with maybe a faint tick, but much less drama than before.

I’m a little spooked though. If it were the water pump, the noise would not have just gone away, right? I’ve had one seize on me before: it only gets worse when it announces it imminent demise.

When I looked down into head valley under the intake, I noticed my dirty rinse water pooled up. Could that have caused a problem?

 

[Super77]

Nearly fully warmed up after 10 min of idle, no noises like in the first video. Gauges look normal.

 

[Bisho]

Your fan bracket bearing is failing. You can see the fan wobble. I’d recommend changing it ASAP, if it lets go it’ll take out your radiator.

It’s quite a job to get it out. You may as well do the timing belt and water pump while you’re at it, as it’s 75% of the labor.

 

[nissanh]

Check for any free play on any of those pullies. When did you last replace fan bracket? idler pulley or tensioner pulley? If you are near a next T-belt service, then go for the repairs, if not , just replace the fan bracket pulley. I used OEm bracket. Fan blade came off, front two AC bolts came off, alternator and P/S pump must be dismounted, belt tensioner comes out and both cam pully covers come out.

 

[Super77]

Your fan bracket bearing is failing. You can see the fan wobble. I’d recommend changing it ASAP, if it lets go it’ll take out your radiator.

It’s quite a job to get it out. You may as well do the timing belt and water pump while you’re at it, as it’s 75% of the labor.

Interesting. Definitely does sound like an unhappy bearing. I’ve got a new WP/TB, radiator, and hoses at the top of the PM list. Sounds like I can add a fan bracket for just a little more labor.

Not quite seeing a wobble, though

Start and high idle


Low idle


Angle 1
Angle 1 - https://youtube.com/shorts/RTJbDemyHcM?si=Oz_DUkLU-1WPs1fK

Angle 2
Angle 2 - https://youtube.com/shorts/3M7WRKlllNg?si=RIuvKZomTEiBS0b2

 

[Bisho]

Interesting. Definitely does sound like an unhappy bearing. I’ve got a new WP/TB, radiator, and hoses at the top of the PM list. Sounds like I can add a fan bracket for just a little more labor.

Not quite seeing a wobble, though

Start and high idle


Low idle


Angle 1
Angle 1 - https://youtube.com/shorts/RTJbDemyHcM?si=Oz_DUkLU-1WPs1fK

Angle 2
Angle 2 - https://youtube.com/shorts/3M7WRKlllNg?si=RIuvKZomTEiBS0b2

In your first video where the noise is present I see a bit of a wobble, but you only show it for a second or so, so maybe I’m seeing things, but the sound there is similar to what mine sounded like when it was failing.

If you’re already doing a TB job, replacing the bracket is no more labor, it has to come off, anyway.

 

[2001LC]

A failing water pump bearing (bushing) will leak. We'll see this leak at timing belt lower cover and its weep hole. Washing engine, well not have any effect on water pump.

When we wash the engine and radiator fins. We often get water on belt and its pulleys. As pulleys age, their seals fail. If water passes the seals. Will often get unusual nasty sounds bearing sounds. I then remove the belt and check bearings of:
Tensioner pulley.
Idler pulley.
Fan bracket.
Any bad, I replace.


We replace bearing (pulleys and or fan bracket) then may find after we wash again, getting belt wet. We get a squeal. That when belt wet, goes away, Then comes back again when dry. Belt can be removed and cleaned. But so often this is sign, time to replace serp belt.

We've two other areas, we need to take care to not wash or get soaked, when washing:

• AC clutch. We may wash soap and grim on clutch's pressure plate. Best to have engine running and AC on Full all doors open. This keeps AC clutch engaged, which close air gap. Ot also spin soap/grim water may be carrying, away..
• Alternator. Water/soap/grim, getting into alternator. Often causes premature failure, Just like tensioner and idler pulley bearings, seal get old. We can als affect amature, commutator and brushes. So never spray water directly on alternator and have engine running while washing area near it. To that end, keep undershield on and rad drain hatch in place. Helps block, road wash.

 

[Super77]

A failing water pump bearing (bushing) will leak. We'll see this leak at timing belt lower cover and its weep hole. Washing engine, well not have any effect on water pump.

When we wash the engine and radiator fins. We often get water on belt and its pulleys. As pulleys age, their seals fail. If water passes the seals. Will often get unusual nasty sounds bearing sounds. I then remove the belt and check bearings of:
Tensioner pulley.
Idler pulley.
Fan bracket.
Any bad, I replace.


We replace bearing (pulleys and or fan bracket) then may find after we wash again, getting belt wet. We get a squeal. That when belt wet, goes away, Then comes back again when dry. Belt can be removed and cleaned. But so often this is sign, time to replace serp belt.

We've two other areas, we need to take care to not wash or get soaked, when washing:

• AC clutch. We may wash soap and grim on clutch's pressure plate. Best to have engine running and AC on Full all doors open. This keeps AC clutch engaged, which close air gap. Ot also spin soap/grim water may be carrying, away..
• Alternator. Water/soap/grim, getting into alternator. Often causes premature failure, Just like tensioner and idler pulley bearings, seal get old. We can als affect amature, commutator and brushes. So never spray water directly on alternator and have engine running while washing area near it. To that end, keep undershield on and rad drain hatch in place. Helps block, road wash.

I can see that where I was degreasing around the head and intake manifold is directly above the fan bracket. I’ll bet much of the degreaser dripped down and weeped into that area. I’d imagine that bearing is sealed but maybe no longer after 26 years, and it’s probably not meant to get wet.

I’ll replace it when I do the TB/WP/Rad, just want to know it’s ok to drive for the near term (if it remains quiet and not wobbly).

 

[2001LC]

I can see that where I was degreasing around the head and intake manifold is directly above the fan bracket. I’ll bet much of the degreaser dripped down and weeped into that area. I’d imagine that bearing is sealed but maybe no longer after 26 years, and it’s probably not meant to get wet.

The fan bracket bearing seal. Is hidden from direct water pressure. The tensioner & idler bearing seals are now. So whereas I see many idlers and tensioner bearings effect by washing. I do not (never have) when it comes to fan brackets.

I’ll replace it when I do the TB/WP/Rad, just want to know it’s ok to drive for the near term (if it remains quiet and not wobbly).

Yes and no!

I would take off fan belt and investigate fan bracket, idler, tensioner bearings and belt.

Where I do like the idea of R&R fan bracket with T-belt service. If it's bad, I'd not wait.

I had seen one 03LX, I warned owner to keep eye on fan bracket. That it's bearings sound was concerning. The the fan clutch was also weak. He replaced fan clutch DIY. He may have messed up during, FC R&R, we don't know. Anyway, he lent out this 03LX to his in-laws. They drove up into the mountains on I-70 one winter day (40F OAT). They noticed, a bit of loss of power, then cabin heat stop blowing hot, then engine died leaving them at side of road dead. Apparently the fan bracket sheared off. Fan, clutch and flange of fan bracket were found lying in fan shroud. Which with belt off, alternator does not generated power. Once battery dead, engine died.

We were hopeful, engine was okay. Since cold day and traveling at HWY speeds. Which, forces air through radiator fins. It wasn't, overheated and damaged cylinders. Combustion gasses coming out oil cap. Took him 1 year to find a good used engine a get install DIY.

If you're aware (his in-laws weren't) of changes in sound and or operating. You can risk it.