Engine revving high but no power to the road (2006 LX470) (1 Viewer)

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Oct 3, 2016
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Chandler AZ
Had a weird issue happen the other day and not seeing a similar issue with my searches so i am reaching out to get some thoughts.

This past week I hopped in the truck after driving to the gym early last week. No noticed issues driving there. Temps were mild, in the mid 40's (AZ)
Put the truck in drive and seemed to have a hard time moving, then finally released. Got on the road and noticed the truck had very little power, barely getting over 10-15 miles per hour. Engine was revving at 3K or so, but the truck wouldn't seem to accelerate.

Stopped the truck, pushed it up to neutral, and revved the engine. No issues there. Back to drive and same issue, no power to acceleration. On the larger arterial roads, i could catch some speed but it took a bit to get there. No sounds like anything was broken or loose, no check engine light.

I grabbed some video while driving for input. Any thoughts?
 
did you engage the CDL?
WAG would be a drive flange, front CV issue
 
Has the transmission fluid level ever been reset. No, it needs level set to correct, the factory under fill.
If some one has flushed, what ATF did they use and did they properly set level!

TSB has us set level at 96f to 115F. While transmission fluid expands, as it heats. During warm-up it's at the lowest level, 40f OAT could be clue as to why now.

If drive flanges check-out, I'd flush and set transmission. Using either Toyota WS ATF or Mobil (Not to be confused with Mobil 1) MV full synthetic, rated for Toy II, III, IV & WS.
 
I had a MAF sensor go bad and had similar symptoms but I believe it was accompanied by a check engine light. I’d go with @2001LC rec, could just add a quart of fluid at a time and see if it helps, and perform a full fluid exchange if that’s identified as the issue.
 
Has the transmission fluid level ever been reset. No, it needs level set to correct, the factory under fill.
If some one has flushed, what ATF did they use and did they properly set level!

TSB has us set level at 96f to 115F. While transmission fluid expands, as it heats. During warm-up it's at the lowest level, 40f OAT could be clue as to why now.

If drive flanges check-out, I'd flush and set transmission. Using either Toyota WS ATF or Mobil (Not to be confused with Mobil 1) MV full synthetic, rated for Toy II, III, IV & WS.
Great thought. Ill take a look, thanks for the input. Caught your posts on the LAZY MAN ATF thread. Appreciate that!

Drove the truck again this morning and had zero issues, acceleration was fine, no hesitation.
 
Well, thank you! But it's not a competition, just helping with a possibility. @3_puppies gives tons of good useful advise/help, as he's done here.
 
Can you elaborate on the CDL and WAG acronyms?

CDL= center diff lock, it locks the front and rear output of the transfer case, if there is a problem with the front drive all power is lost there and no drive.
locking the center diff lock sends equal power to both front and rear
there should be a push button in the console or lower dash area that shows both axles and an "X" between them

WAG= wild ass guess
 
How is the color of the trans fluid? from the video you posted, it downshifted to 3rd gear like it is on an up hill.
 
Great thought. Ill take a look, thanks for the input. Caught your posts on the LAZY MAN ATF thread. Appreciate that!

Drove the truck again this morning and had zero issues, acceleration was fine, no hesitation.
Are you saying you did something that remedied the issue, or it just went away on its own?
 
How is the color of the trans fluid? from the video you posted, it downshifted to 3rd gear like it is on an up hill.
Diving into that next week once I get some time off. Ill follow up with those results. Fortunately the truck isn't my daily driver. The down shift in the video was me giving it gas (increasing rpms) but not seeing any benefit with gained MPH. It was like the power was not transferring to the wheels.
To me, that looks like a fuel delivery problem. If possible, use an OBD dongle and connect to an app like Torque to monitor the o2 sensors and see if it is getting enough fuel.
Been wanting to pick a OBD or scangauge for a while now. This may be the best opportunity to remedy the issue if it isn't the transmission fluid or MAF.
Are you saying you did something that remedied the issue, or it just went away on its own?
Did nothing, just drove it again yesterday morning to see if it would recreate the condition. Ran fine, shifted fine, no issues at all..........Still going to dig into the transmission fluid, It has been +/- 50K miles since that was last looked at.
 
Park brake stuck on? Though if that was the issue you'd be the only one with a park brake that could provide that much retardation....:)
 
Did nothing, just drove it again yesterday morning to see if it would recreate the condition. Ran fine, shifted fine, no issues at all..........Still going to dig into the transmission fluid, It has been +/- 50K miles since that was last looked at.
Intermittent problems are indicative of a fuel pump problem. The transmission looked fine in the video. But the engine sounded weak like it didn't get enough fuel flow
 

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