Hi - I have sourced a replacement 2F engine block - new old stock from the Middle East that has no engine stamp - is it possible to buy original Toyota stamps and the setting die so that I can keep the same number as my original that has sadly died?
Engine number stamp question (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter TunkeyndtheMonkey
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brian
SILVER Star
no
How much do you want to spend to "counterfeit" your block. There are engraving folks that can simulate about any stamping that can pass the naked eye inspection test. Or you could make a one off stamp out of tool steel using acid etched or EDM. A lot of stuff was actually free hand stamped and not set in a jig. I have stamped hundreds of Cadastral survey brass caps and scribed about twice that many bearing trees - penmanship - it never goes out of style.
You can buy metal letter stamping die’s…..you have a blank sheet, instead of the factory number, get creative. Something Like…
“IH8MUD 7/22/24”
Maybe your initials and date…..or your wife’s Name and Birthday….nothing says ‘I Love You’ like her initials in an engine block
There are a lot of options.
“IH8MUD 7/22/24”
Maybe your initials and date…..or your wife’s Name and Birthday….nothing says ‘I Love You’ like her initials in an engine block
There are a lot of options.
Babe! Babe! Babe! Check out this message of love I made for you on the side of this oily engine block! Swoon indeed.You can buy metal letter stamping die’s…..you have a blank sheet, instead of the factory number, get creative. Something Like…
“IH8MUD 7/22/24”
Maybe your initials and date…..or your wife’s Name and Birthday….nothing says ‘I Love You’ like her initials in an engine block
There are a lot of options.
But seriously. I mean, technically you can stamp in a number. But good luck replicating the stamp font. You have a dealer replacement block. These are not stamped with a serial number. You sort of have a more rare one there that tells a story when someone asks if you stole it and shaved the numbers.
Last edited:
This solution would cost about $40…
1/2" Number Steel Dies Punch Stamp Wood Metal Set 0-9 | eBay
For sale is a used 1/2" steel Number punch set. This is military surplus and will have markings as shown.
www.ebay.com
Take a rubbing of your block #'s. Transfer that to your new block.
This tool and technique could could make a stamp which you could then heat treat or cut it directly
This tool and technique could could make a stamp which you could then heat treat or cut it directly
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Not exactly. Ideally you would want the same font. You would also need the "F" and the "-".This solution would cost about $40…
1/2" Number Steel Dies Punch Stamp Wood Metal Set 0-9 | eBay
For sale is a used 1/2" steel Number punch set. This is military surplus and will have markings as shown.www.ebay.com
View attachment 3684339
So are you saying there's no number on the replacement block from the ME? Does it have the flat spot for the block number? I know other replacement blocks that have been posted in Mud have a number.
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I have seen almost a dozen replacement blocks with no number one them. Not that unusual.
I am personally fascinated by an F135 replacement block in my collection that has no numbers because it has a '69 and newer crankshaft that takes a bolt on harmonic balancer.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
I think my reference set is FZJ80 blocks so, in hindsight, I probably shouldn't have made that statement.
- Thread starter
- #11
Iy has the same block as above but has not been stamped, Ill post a picture
- Thread starter
- #12
Im reconsidering whether to bother stamping it, perhaps keep the original engine that is recorded on the log book and when I come to sell it include it in the sale.....
- Thread starter
- #15
Good question, all I know is that the number corresponds to the year and that the number is listed in its ownership log book.
- Thread starter
- #16
It simply has the 2F stamped, not a number. its blank
I have run up against this in another hobby.
Letter and number stamps are easy to get in many sizes from Harbor Freight and others. The font is very generic and does not match the old block.
Making a jig to stamp them in the correct orientation and character spacing is tricky. I have been able to do so for smaller objects.
What about font? Getting any special font can be done. Companies specialize in it. They do not come cheap. They do not look exactly like the original stamps due to how they are made. I estimate the set you need would cost between $500 and $1000.
Once you have them, can you strike the individual stamps with consistent force and direction? What is the force required exactly? IT takes practice. How will you secure the jig? What if you knock the jig loose? You must use a jig. Any misalignment stick out like a sore thumb.
Engraving by hand takes a huge time commitment to learn. The tools are prohibitively expensive. An engraved number does not have the displaced metal around the number and therefore looks wrong.
Making your own stamps is not practical.
IT appears that the original stamp pictured was done with an roll stamp and a machine press. Duplicating it would be near impossible.
The way the fakers are doing guns now is with a very sophisticated CNC process. It looks good with the naked eye but does not pass under magnification.
Rather than make a mess I think it looks better to leave it blank.
Letter and number stamps are easy to get in many sizes from Harbor Freight and others. The font is very generic and does not match the old block.
Making a jig to stamp them in the correct orientation and character spacing is tricky. I have been able to do so for smaller objects.
What about font? Getting any special font can be done. Companies specialize in it. They do not come cheap. They do not look exactly like the original stamps due to how they are made. I estimate the set you need would cost between $500 and $1000.
Once you have them, can you strike the individual stamps with consistent force and direction? What is the force required exactly? IT takes practice. How will you secure the jig? What if you knock the jig loose? You must use a jig. Any misalignment stick out like a sore thumb.
Engraving by hand takes a huge time commitment to learn. The tools are prohibitively expensive. An engraved number does not have the displaced metal around the number and therefore looks wrong.
Making your own stamps is not practical.
IT appears that the original stamp pictured was done with an roll stamp and a machine press. Duplicating it would be near impossible.
The way the fakers are doing guns now is with a very sophisticated CNC process. It looks good with the naked eye but does not pass under magnification.
Rather than make a mess I think it looks better to leave it blank.
- Thread starter
- #19
Thank you - I'm going to add these reasons to my decision not to stamp the block. I am going to be travelling through some of Eastern Europe where a missing engine number will be a problem at the Border, so I plan on having a matching number (making no attempt to copy fonts etc) etched onto a piece of stainless steel that I will apply to the block (Ive ordered a few) whenever necessary!
That is a good idea. A trophy shop can engrave your tab with a pantograph. Bring them a paper example of what you want. IF they botch it they can try again. I suppose you could attach it to the correct spot on the block with JB weld. Then file it to match the block. Then paint.
