Engine knocking after overheat (1 Viewer)

[SmokingRocks]

Glad we are able to help. Keep that FSM close and reference it as much as possible. It’s extremely thorough.

 

[K Dub]

Glad we are able to help. Keep that FSM close and reference it as much as possible. It’s extremely thorough.

My results have been mixed with the FSM. I know it's going to be essential during reassembly for the torque values, but I can't find anything in there to save myself. It's like a huge library with no card catalog or Dewey decimal; everything is in there but good luck finding it. The search on here is instant and I'm moving on to the next job rather than scrolling through thousands of pages. I'd better get comfortable with it though, because I won't be getting this lump put back together without it.

 

[ccslider]

The trick to getting the top bellhousing bolts is to peel back the carpet and drill 1/4 inch holes in the firewall until the light from a flashlight shines on the bolt head. Then drill a 1.5 inch hole with a hole saw drill and you can put a socket on it.

Once you have it back in, put a 1.5 inch Dorman plug over the hole and plug any left over 1/4 inch holes with silicone caulk.

Yeah don't do this. Sure it's easier to cut holes in your floor but that's a crap way to do things.

Get a 3 ft extension with an impact wobble socket and lower the transfer case crossmember down some. It's not that hard.

Or just pull the engine, trans and transfer case together like I did.

 

[Pin_Head]

Some high end cars come from the factory with access holes in the firewall and all cars have holes for the wiring and control cables, so I guess they are all crap too.

 

[SmokingRocks]

My results have been mixed with the FSM. I know it's going to be essential during reassembly for the torque values, but I can't find anything in there to save myself. It's like a huge library with no card catalog or Dewey decimal; everything is in there but good luck finding it. The search on here is instant and I'm moving on to the next job rather than scrolling through thousands of pages. I'd better get comfortable with it though, because I won't be getting this lump put back together without it.

I hear ya. But once you figure out how to navigate it you’ll go there first every time.

The engine tear down section is very well organized and sequential. The 93-94 fsm is segmented in folders which makes it a pain, the later ones are not, so they are easier to navigate / key word search.

I have all the 80 series fsm’s downloaded Incase the 94 version is missing a section.

 

[K Dub]

Yeah don't do this. Sure it's easier to cut holes in your floor but that's a crap way to do things.

Get a 3 ft extension with an impact wobble socket and lower the transfer case crossmember down some. It's not that hard.

Or just pull the engine, trans and transfer case together like I did.

The consensus does seem to be that it's easier to pull the "whole enchilada". I just panic when I see photos of all 7 feet of drivetrain removed. Either people have nice stands and work benches, or it's sitting on tires on the floor. I get that it's easier to reach the top bellhousing bolts outside the car, but if the drivetrain is sitting on the floor wouldn't that make the bottom bolts the problem?

I removed the A/C and Alternator brackets using my big breaker bar (the only time I've needed it), and I could see that kind of leverage tipping the whole engine on its side and destroying everything. I was happy to do that while still bolted to the car even if it's "easier" on an engine stand. Tipping the engine over while removing the manifolds or something is still a distinct possibility.

I'm just worried there's still a decent chance of me ruining the whole thing. So far the only damage was a cracking noise on the Alternator harness plug; the tab feels loose now and I can't disconnect it. I set the alternator aside with the harness still attached, but I'll have to figure that out eventually. I'm mortified of cracking a sensor or something and running up the tab even higher.

For the record, I like the drilling holes method. Simple and effective, we already have multiple holes in the firewall. What's a few more among friends. I'm planning on pulling the engine/trans/t-case all at once, but I'm still not happy about it.

 

[K Dub]

OK, here's my current frustration. You can all have a good laugh, and hopefully I can get past this. I've never removed throttle cables before. The FSM doesn't even mention their existence or show them on the diagram for the throttle body, and searching here was a depressing endeavor.

How to Remove Throttle Cable?

EDIT: Nevermind, that was stupidly easy. Excuse me while I go delete my internet existence hahaha.

Throttle Cables: How to get them back in?

I'm sorry, I figured it out, and it was a dumb question. It was the end of the cable, where you lock it into the throttle body.

I'm dying here. Do I loosen the adjustment bolts? Do I open the throttle manually and try to yank the cable? This is the level of my competence and I'm trying to remove an engine, do you see why I'm worried?

 

[ccslider]

Yeah just loosen the nuts and manually open the throttle body. Then remove Cable.

It's a good idea to feel the cable so you have an idea for reinstall. You could even mark the treads on the adjuster. You just don't want it pulling on the butterfly in the throttle body when reassemble.

Also get yourself an engine leveler to help you pull it. I had to crank that sucker all the way one way and then back the other way to get it out. I also had the radiator support off.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Open the throttle body by hand then use your other hand to slack the cable out and turn it 90 degrees where it is at the stop the. It can be maneuvered out

 

[K Dub]

Thank you. After the better part of an hour, that's finally done. I wouldn't call it simple though, that lower cable (I suppose the trans kickdown cable?) was a major PITA.

Just in case someone even less qualified than me stumbles on my thread while cursing at the throttle cables. Here's the skinny; you've got to hold both sides of the adjustment nuts, otherwise it'll just spin. I wedged my vice grips in the side with the lip and used an open 12mm to break the nut. The trans cable uses a 14mm for some reason, so have that handy as well. Then getting that cable end off at the bottom of the spring is the same as the top two, just upside down with no space or visibility. Just hold the slack toward the end and wiggle it toward the firewall.

Now you see why it's taken me four weeks to get this far. Thanks again.

Next up; fuel lines. Then heater valve, harness, trans connections, driveshafts, bumper & winch, then hoist. Another 6 months or so should do it. Then I can start trying to fix something.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Keep at it, you’re doing a good job, and keep at that labeling system you’ve got going on. Looks good

 

[ccslider]

So if your disconnecting the trans kick down that sounds like you're pulling just the engine? If you pull both you don't have to remove that.

You can just disconnect the ecu by the glove box and feed the wires through the firewall and not disconnect every sensor on the engine and transmission. If you pull just the engine you need to disconnect the transmission harness connectors.

You will have to remove the shifter if you pull the trans.

Be very mindful of the heater valve on the firewall. They break easy and are like 80 bucks

I'd remove the coolant pipe on the driver side too because it sticks out far.

 

[K Dub]

So if your disconnecting the trans kick down that sounds like you're pulling just the engine? If you pull both you don't have to remove that.

You can just disconnect the ecu by the glove box and feed the wires through the firewall and not disconnect every sensor on the engine and transmission. If you pull just the engine you need to disconnect the transmission harness connectors.

You will have to remove the shifter if you pull the trans.

Be very mindful of the heater valve on the firewall. They break easy and are like 80 bucks

I'd remove the coolant pipe on the driver side too because it sticks out far.

I'll be pulling everything out together, but eventually I'll need it stripped down to the block, so if I did an extra step now it shouldn't really matter in the long run. Like removing the alternator bracket. I'll be pulling the upper radiator hose, and probably the water pump too, while it's still in the truck. I'll try the harness through the firewall trick, but it still has to come off so that's really about me not wanting to do the intake yet. I'm trying to do as much as I can before calling in help, then I'd like to get it to a machinist ASAP before it spends too long sitting in my garage gathering dust.

Oh, and the heater control valve has started turning brown, so I'm afraid it's going on the list too. At this rate I'll be lucky if I can reuse wiper blades when I'm done.

 

[ccslider]

I'll be pulling everything out together, but eventually I'll need it stripped down to the block, so if I did an extra step now it shouldn't really matter in the long run. Like removing the alternator bracket. I'll be pulling the upper radiator hose, and probably the water pump too, while it's still in the truck. I'll try the harness through the firewall trick, but it still has to come off so that's really about me not wanting to do the intake yet. I'm trying to do as much as I can before calling in help, then I'd like to get it to a machinist ASAP before it spends too long sitting in my garage gathering dust.

Oh, and the heater control valve has started turning brown, so I'm afraid it's going on the list too. At this rate I'll be lucky if I can reuse wiper blades when I'm done.

Ahh yes.. the "while I'm in there" ... You start out with a 500 dollar project total and end up with the house refinanced, kids college fund depleted and a really nice 80 series.

You should consider deleting the rear heater or replacing the lines

 

[SmokingRocks]

replace the lines. The rear heater is clutch in winter and if you ever need to shed heat from the engine fast.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Also when you get to removing intake manifold bolts and can bolts etc get cardboard out, sketched the part and put the bolts in the cardboard in the orientation you took them off the engine. It will help you keep things organized. You can see that I put together cardboard mock-ups of the intake manifold bolt layout in this photo below. (If you look you'll actually see a bunch of cardboard with bolts stuck in them.

 

[K Dub]

Look what the Heavy Metal Easter Bunny brought!

That's gonna be a big help. I haven't figured out what to do for a stand, but it's coming together. I also finally got around to cutting open my oil filter. I was careful to only cut all the way through the rim at one point with the grinder. I finished it off with snips. This looks pretty bad to me.

The good news was the drainback valve was working great. I'd had the filter sitting face down in a tray for weeks. Well, it was still full of oil today. Real sparkly oil too. The filter itself had this weird crud on it. It's rock hard, I figure it's most likely adhesive for the filter, but I don't see others like it online. This is my first open filter, I'm not sure what to expect. I'll be doing this again on the wife's Lexus next time around. I sent off my Blackstone sample over a week ago and haven't heard a thing. I forgot to copy down the tracking number, so who knows if they even got it. Whatever, there's a lot of metal in this filter. I'm moving on.

I tried to remove my ARB bumper today using the hoist. I've got it unbolted from the frame but it isn't budging. Not even with a decent pry bar on it. I tried a mallet on the fender wings, and even a 2x4 and sledge. I had a jack under it, and the hoist above it, I've bounced on it. Nothing.

I've got the whole frame front soaking in PB Blaster right now, I'll take another swing later, but if anyone has any tips for removing an ARB bumper with a winch, feel free to jump in. There are good sized gaps on the insides of the frame, but the 3 bolted sides are all tight.

Killing me. Otherwise, I've got a flare wrench for the power steering line and I've started on the harness in the glovebox. It's coming along. I hope to pull the engine in the next week or two. Work is about to pick up, so we'll see. I think it's time to call Martin Davidson's machine shop.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Hook your winch up to another truck or something and winch the sucker off lol. It is amazing how tightly steel on steel can seize up. I watched an old f350 with a hitch stuck in the receiver tear his whole frame apart trying to yank it out. First he used a portapower between the bumpber and hitch while heating the hitch with an oxy acetelyne rosebud torch. The hitch was actually glowing red and the portapower still couldn't force the hitch out. Then he hooked a chain from the hitch to a tree and proceeded to tear the frame apart. All this was after days of penetrating fluid and the bfh treatment.

 

[ppc]

Try eliminating any upward pressure on the bumper. Only use the hoist with some slack to keep keep it from dropping to the floor then try banging and prying.

 

[K Dub]

Finally got my report from Blackstone Labs. That took a little longer than expected, I was beginning to wonder. Anyhow, it more or less confirms what I already saw inside the oil filter. They sent me 2 more sample kits too, so the wife's 2JZ will be getting tested next. Here it is, read it and weep. I sure did.

I'm still hoping I can limit the repairs to a head gasket and rod bearings, but we'll see. I'm going to finally pull the engine out next weekend. I'll drain the fuel filter and rail this weekend, and try to tackle the exhaust manifold. I couldn't see an easy way to put a big breaker bar on those y-pipe bolts, any tricks for access on those? I've been dousing the header and y-pipe connections with PB Blaster every few days for a month, I'm hoping it's not a problem.

After that, it's just driveshafts, engine & trans mounts, then lift it out... I'm sure I'm missing a connection or two somewhere. I haven't even called the machine shop yet, work has been keeping me from this project lately. Gotta keep at it, I'm sick of driving a Honda.

ETA:
This new job of mine has a parking garage with a 6'6" clearance. I'll worry about that when I get my truck back.