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- #81
Army. 11 years as EOD. That was the dream job. Just working to support my habits now.
Builds empty80's “Nearly” Complete Build (1 Viewer)
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Thank you for your service brother.
Just read through the thread. Great build. BP-51 and ARB Summit are what's ideally next in store for my truck.
Please forgive revival of this old thread. I'm working on some diagnostics for the charcoal canister, i.e., how do you know the CC is fouled.So, this happened.
RTH- P1613, P1614, P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057, P0102 SOLVED
All, I have no clue what happened. I drove 120 miles to work this morning, and parked. A couple of hours later when departing, truck went into limp mode. I conducted a fuel transfer in route. I have opened and retightened the fuel cap. I cleared the codes, and they returned. I disconnected...forum.ih8mud.com
In the process, I preemptively replaced the charcoal canister. The old one didn’t feel healthy and when I removed it, qualitatively, it weighed a bit more than the new one. No more fumes from the truck, codes are gone, and hopefully I will not have to drop the auxiliary tank again for some time.
In other news, I’ve decided to replace the 600# coil springs with 700# springs. This should be a fun job assuming I don’t send a coil and digit into low earth orbit...
Did you document observations about the CC? I'm looking for things like weight and sounds it makes when shaken, and so on.
I've been chasing and squashing evap related codes on an LRA equipped 2008. Early days for the 200, and early days for the third-party gear. Lots of obtuse stuff happening. Any input greatly appreciated.
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- #85
What codes are chasing? That would help the larger audience assist in diagnosis.
Prior to that debacle (and after the LRA install) I had small leak and large leak codes mostly related to the installer’s creative license with hose and evap management. The vent line had been tee’d into the filler neck in such a way that the evap pumps were perpetually pulling vapors. Once I disconnected the vent line and attached the filter in accordance with the LRA instructions, I stopped seeing small and large leak codes.
My issues in the thread linked above all stemmed from a chafed wire that shorted the evap circuit to ground and blew the fuse. Dropping the tank was necessary to find the root cause.
I had already boiled fuel on four separate occasions, and with the canister vent line plumbed into the filler neck, I assumed the canister had been saturated and decided to replace it while the tank was down. I didn’t want to drop the tank again anytime soon.
Once the canister was off, there was no sloshing in it, but there was an obvious weight difference between old and new. I didn’t bother diagnosing any further. I had found my “needle in the haystack,” so I was more than satisfied.
I've been working back from 'lean bank 1' and 'lean bank 2' codes to various evap system codes much like yours; also running way out of stoich. The former I resolved by MAF replacement after a suspected intake leak (filter poorly installed, leaving gap) as well as fuel pump replacement (fixed those), and the latter resolved after rebuilding CC harness (fix and extend) to resolve wire break inside of insulation sleeve. (similar harness pinch issue others have posted about)
As for the LRA, I'm as certain as I can be that the installation is now solid. I did not have the mis-plumbing issue you mentioned, but I did relocate the CC filter box from under the body (PO/installer did not move it) and added the larger vent tube and bigger filter after the CC filter. I did find that the vent-to-atmo hose from the CC was being kinked (routing over/around the LRA) to the point of restricting air flow to cause of gas pump click issue, so I found a (new?) way to avoid that. I'll post a brief write-up on that in the busy LRA thread soon.
Today I'm faced with P0031. I suspect that a combination of running too rich (lean code = computer adds fuel) and dust/particulate matter welding itself to the upstream 02 sensor(s) fouled them. Primary symptom is excessive fuel consumption at idle, the P0031 code, but never any stalling or misfires. I already have two upstream 02 sensors, so they are going in next.
My goal with the inquiry about the CC: compare the weight of a new canister to that of one which is *suspected* of being fouled in order to establish an objective and alternative diagnostic standard to the FSM procedure. Naturally, the pump and valve must be in working order, but the air flow tests are rather difficult to do. Finally, and I have to find the thread in which someone disassembles the CC again, I'd like to experiment with cutting a hole on either top or bottom of the CC, extracting the media, and either rehabilitating or replacing it. The post I mention (but cannot find) showed opening the back part of the canister at the plastic weld seam. My hypothesis: cutting a circular hole into one of the broad sides may provide sufficient access to the internals and, more importantly, provide a better way reliably to re-seal the box. With the many instances of CC fouling after fuel boiling, and nearly $1k replacement cost + PITA work, it would be awesome to find a way to make the CC serviceable...at least once. It would be sparkly unicorn great if we could develop a method for repeat serviceability, even. (hat-tip to those MUDders who have worked back the Mr. T. design choices around using fuel to cool the engine, and what may be done to mitigate excessive fuel temperature to begin with; I'm not on that level just yet.)
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- #88
Over the last week and a half, I have:
- swapped the rear springs from 2724 to 2723 and added Airbagman HP5051 bags
- reduced the BP-51 preload from 20mm to 10mm (ish)
-swapped the Total Chaos UCAs for OME UCAs
- replaced the Gamiviti roof rack with a factory rack
- ditched the Toyo AT3 for BFG KO2 in LT285/75r17
- replaced the front KDSS links and bushings
Based on the front ride height and calculations, I could be able to come down to 2722s in the rear.
Also, this bad boy showed up today, and I haven’t decided if I’m going to go for it or not…
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Excellent. honest feedback!
Great Thread and DAYUM i love that matte color!
Great Thread and DAYUM i love that matte color!
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- #90
Thank you! The best I can do is be honest about my choices, and be grateful that I don't have to gaslight myself into being satisfied.
What was your reasoning for ditching the Gamiviti? I'm keep leaning towards that but then thinking of just doing the LC bars with the LFD cross bars too. Gamiviti seems so nice though.
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- #92
Just a change in use case was all. My wife wanted a camper, so of course, we got one.
With half of our belongings in tow, it didn’t make sense to have the non-factory trade off…
And I sure do enjoy tinkering.
I love that line and if only more people would view life the same.
Why did you change your UCA's from TC to OME ? different geometry ?
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- #95
Two main reasons: sealed uniball and rubber bushing. I can’t say I’ve noticed an in cab improvement with the bushing. Maybe there is a marginal improvement in longevity and that certainly are cleaner. The Indy that did my alignment was quite impressed with how well it dialed in though. The tie rods looks less dodgy.
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- #96
I spent yesterday and today cleaning up my electrical mess. I had considered my electrical installs temporary as I built the truck. But I’ve been strongly considering an LX600 which means the build sheet needs to be finalized just in case. 
Before:
After:
Excess removed:
Before:
After:
Excess removed:
- Thread starter
- #98
I made some quality of life mods. I’ve squeezed in an ARB Pressure Control Module which is just fantastic. I’ve also added a female RF-45 to the dash to tidy up my radio install. I’ve only dragged my feet for three years on that.
I had my radio antenna mounted to my Slee swingarm. Since I no longer have the swingarms installed, I’ve sprung for a Sherpa Equipment Co antenna bracket. It bolts just fine to the factory roof rails with the hardware supplied.
I should have the new antenna cable this week to round off the install.
I’ve also got some ProClip madness on the way to “finalize” the cockpit layout.
I’m just biding my time until @drkdss releases the BOTCK to determine whether or not I’ll proceed with the KDSS delete.
I had my radio antenna mounted to my Slee swingarm. Since I no longer have the swingarms installed, I’ve sprung for a Sherpa Equipment Co antenna bracket. It bolts just fine to the factory roof rails with the hardware supplied.
I’ve also got some ProClip madness on the way to “finalize” the cockpit layout.
I’m just biding my time until @drkdss releases the BOTCK to determine whether or not I’ll proceed with the KDSS delete.
- Thread starter
- #99
First time towing since I switched from OME 2723 down to 2721. The airbags at 20 psi were too harsh, 15 psi was too plush. Both pressures were better than towing with the wife’s stock Tundra with Timbren helpers.
I purchased and installed a lithium battery (not for starting) hoping that temps wouldn’t be an issue. Guess what? They were. Around 3pm each day the BMS would shut the battery off, so back to AGM I go.
It’s become a little tradition of mine to take a close out photo of the filthy truck backed into the garage after a trip to Ouray.
P.S. This platform is a cheat code.
Where did you install the battery? Under the hood?
