Emissions Manual

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It looks like yours has been desmogged at some point.

There appears to be a yellow wire coming off the back of your carb, that presumably is connected to the idle circuit solenoid on the back of the carb. This is substituting for the "wiring harness" on the SOR carb. It needs to be connected to switched 12V power so that it allows fuel to flow when the key is on and shuts off fuel flow when the key is switched off.

The "candycanes" are just tubes. Vacuum piping connects to two ports on the side of the carb, circle around the carb to these connections, then continue on to the rest of the engine. They just tidy it up a bit.

Take a look at the vacuum diagrams on this page:
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 048 Land Cruiser Emission Controls - scroll down to 8/76-9/77 Federal

You will see that you are correct about the TP diaphragm running to a VSV on the fender. In a desmogged configuration it can be run straight to manifold vacuum, as yours is. BTW, get a Haynes manual because the emissions and wiring diagrams in there are pretty good.

Reference this diagram as well (this is out of the Haynes manual):
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EGR Cut Port

IF you look at this pic you'll see 5 as the EGR Port. Is 13 the EGR cut port right behind it, out of view?
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Yes. If you can get a small mirror in there or pull the carb off the numbers are stamped into the casting. Your carb looks stock, just desmogged. Sept. 1976.
 
I am curious as to where the air pump is supposed to be? I thought it would have been where the power steering pump is in this pic.
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The fuel filter is located by the passenger front wheel well on the frame...right before the fuel line gets to the pump. You are correct about the air pump...it belongs where the power steering pump now resides.
 
Kurt, he's not asking about the fuel filter, rather the gas filter. The gas filter is supposed to thread into the port where there is a brass fitting currently threaded on the intake manifold (and the vacuum line runs to the TP diaphragm). Looks like a PO removed the gas filter.

The air pump is supposed to be where the power steering pump is sitting. If you want to keep the power steering, buy a JT Outfitters bracket (link) and mount the p/s pump up above the air pump.

This picture shows what it would look like to mount the p/s pump in this manner and still keep the air pump:
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If you look at this picture, you will also see a couple other things:

  1. There are two threaded holes in the exhaust manifold. There is a shield that is supposed to mount there using those two holes.
  2. There is a hole on the bottom of your air intake. There is supposed to be a hose that runs from that hole to the shield mentioned above. This is for the Hot Air Intake (HAI) system. Not a critical system, but it helps with cold-weather operation and keeping the engine efficiency optimized. Might want to think about eventually finding those pieces.
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I am also interested to see that you have the short intake, instead of the other style that goes further forward with the hose. Wonder what the difference is between the two, considering yours and mine are supposedly almost the same build type?

Did you ever find your carb number, engine number, or frame number? I'd be interested to see those as well.

:cheers:
 
What do you recommend for someone who is on a budget. Take out the power steering or purchase the mounting bracket. Which procedure is easier? You know I'm about to go buy the necessary parts to rebuild this emissions system but I feel it would be a lot easier if I had part numbers. Do you know any websites or books with the part numbers?
 
This is for the Hot Air Intake (HAI) system. Not a critical system, but it helps with cold-weather operation and keeping the engine efficiency optimized. Might want to think about eventually finding those pieces.

It will not pass CA smog without the HAI intact. They won't make you cool it off to verify the bi-metal spring actually retracts, but you have to have a reasonable facsimile of a heat shield and the riser tube. You can get away with a fab job. I have made two, one out of coat hanger, alu foil and alu foil tape. Cheezy, but functional. The original will be hard to find and expensive. They don't even have them at $OR.

You will also need a full EGR system, AIR system, VSV and computer. It doesn't all technically need to work, but it has to be there for visual inspection and of course you have to pass tail-pipe emissions. If it's well-tuned, has a reasonable carb and valve train, the AIR system is functional, and it's hot, it should pass. The numbers aren't that restrictive for the early years.
 
What do you recommend for someone who is on a budget. Take out the power steering or purchase the mounting bracket. Which procedure is easier? You know I'm about to go buy the necessary parts to rebuild this emissions system but I feel it would be a lot easier if I had part numbers. Do you know any websites or books with the part numbers?

That may depend on your power steering setup. Coincidentally, this week and possibly next I am driving my FJ60 power steering-powered FJ40 powersteeringless. I am trying to change my pulley out and in the middle of doing that found myself taking another car to the body shop to get repaired, so my FJ40 has turned into my DD for the next couple of weeks and I haven't had a chance to put my power steering back together. It's not too bad on the streets, but it would be more horrible than stock manual steering offroad. Do you know what kind of power steering setup you have? Post some pictures of your steering gear box to give us some ideas.

You can find emissions components in a number of ways:
-Search the MUD classifieds for someone getting rid of them
-Search SOR (sometimes used)
-Search used parts places, like cruiserparts.net or classiccruisers.com. Try contacting Mark Algazy as well, he might be able to help with parts.
-Buy from Toyota

Instead of part numbers, oftentimes a description is easier to understand, i.e. "VTV (Red)," "VSV for EVAP," "BVSV (Blue)." If you don't know what colors of these items you need, let us know and we can try to help.

While we're at it, post up a picture of your distributor so we know what you have. It may cause problems if it's not correct for your model year.

It will not pass CA smog without the HAI intact. They won't make you cool it off to verify the bi-metal spring actually retracts, but you have to have a reasonable facsimile of a heat shield and the riser tube. You can get away with a fab job. I have made two, one out of coat hanger, alu foil and alu foil tape. Cheezy, but functional. The original will be hard to find and expensive. They don't even have them at $OR.

You will also need a full EGR system, AIR system, VSV and computer. It doesn't all technically need to work, but it has to be there for visual inspection and of course you have to pass tail-pipe emissions. If it's well-tuned, has a reasonable carb and valve train, the AIR system is functional, and it's hot, it should pass. The numbers aren't that restrictive for the early years.

True, I forgot he was in California. I have seen the shields come up for sale once in a while, but you're right they aren't that easy to find and fabbing one up is a thought that has crossed my mind as well :hillbilly:
 
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For Toyota part numbers, there are lots involved, I'll try to hit the highlights:
EGR Valve: 25620-61021
EGR Pipe (Flexible): 25602-61010
EGR Cooler Half: 25681-61010, Other Half: 25682-61010
EGR Pipe (Rigid): 25601-61030
Air Pump: 17610-61010
Air Rail: 17351-61010
ABV: 17670-61010
Check Valve for Air Injection: 90917-10003

I can't find the part numbers for the other valves and VSVs right now.

These part numbers probably won't help much because Toyota might not have them anymore and even if they did you would spend a fortune buying new OEM.
 
Yea Fast Eddy is right in the emissions manual it says all FED and CA engines need the HAI System. I am curious as to where this computer would be? I know in a picture of the VSV's on SOR it shows a harness coming off, I suppose that harness leads to the computer?


So you think I should build my own Shield? How the heck am I going to do that?
 
well hopefully you still have the plugs in your main wiring harness for the VSVs to plug into. I'm not sure exactly where the "computer" is, somewhere up under the dash I suppose.
 
These are the best photos I have now. If you can work with these great, if not I'll post more thursday. As you can see the distributor has a red cap. Thanks a lot subzail.
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I am curious as to where this computer would be?

The "emission control computer" is a small (about 2.5" square) circuit board with a black plastic cover on it, mounted on the cabin-side of the firewall. Right behind the main fuse block if you have your head in the driver's side footwell. There is a rectangular connector with 12 wires that plugs into it.
 
Looks to me like you have Saginaw power steering, based on how the shaft appears to go all the way through the engine bay and presumably through the front crossmember. I think it would be best to keep your power steering operable, which would mean moving the power steering pump. Man-a-Fre also has a similar power steering bracket:
MAF 4+Plus Saginaw Pump Bracket for 2F Engines
 
I found a guy on LCML that s willing to part with some of his emissions components but I need to send him pics of what they look like. Could you take pictures of any of these components? I will be looking on the internet for them as well.

Smog Pump
EGR Cooler
Air Bypass Valve
EGR Valve
Air Intake Manifold
AIr Intake Check Valve
Gas Filter (Not Fuel Filter)
VTV (Red) or maybe blue but for 1977
VSV SC System
VSV Evap System
VCV 1
VCV 2
BVSV (Blue)
 
Check the diagram in Post #21. The components pretty well look just like they are shown there. Post #27 also has a picture that shows the air (smog) pump. You need the red VTV for 1977 Fed.

Just do a Google Image search like this:
"EGR Cooler site:ih8mud.com" and you will get pictures like this:

EGR Cooler:
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I am looking for a heat shield on the HAI System, does anybody have any pics of this component? I would like to send the pic to LCML.
 

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