Manual Tranny for VW 1.9 TDI (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Nov 15, 2019
Threads
188
Messages
506
Location
Arlington, TX
We have a frankenstein FJ40.

1973 FJ40, with 1978 2f engine, 4spd tranny and tcase. It has different year doors on it, a hard top with ambulance doors, different year steering wheel, the list goes on and on.

I have been kicking around the idea of doing a diesel conversion, and stumbled across several that have used a VW 1.9 TDI. I know how hard it is to find a toyota diesel that would be an easier matchup and a cummins is going to be insanely expensive.

With the 1.9 TDI, I'd like to keep it manual. what tranny would match up to that or is it possible to get a conversion kit to work with an H55? This is a daily driver and gets 13MPG on the road, so looking for better MPG.
 
We have a frankenstein FJ40.

1973 FJ40, with 1978 2f engine, 4spd tranny and tcase. It has different year doors on it, a hard top with ambulance doors, different year steering wheel, the list goes on and on.

I have been kicking around the idea of doing a diesel conversion, and stumbled across several that have used a VW 1.9 TDI. I know how hard it is to find a toyota diesel that would be an easier matchup and a cummins is going to be insanely expensive.

With the 1.9 TDI, I'd like to keep it manual. what tranny would match up to that or is it possible to get a conversion kit to work with an H55? This is a daily driver and gets 13MPG on the road, so looking for better MPG.
I have a Cummins R2.8 adapted to the 2F bell housing with H55F and split transfer case. I got my adapters from Overland Cruisers in Belgrade MT and since I used the 2F bell housing it became the datum point for locating the drive train front to back and side to side. The motor mounts in the kit bolt into the frame in existing holes to set there location before welding. Grind on the bell housing mounts so they clear the adapter plate and they locate the bell housing and gear boxes between the frame rails. Then you bolt up the crossmember from the kit with Toyota isolator and weld in the crossmember to the frame. The front motor mounts also use Toyota isolators. Once the welding is complete and have the assembly back in place you have the option to reuse the bell housing motor mounts or delete them once the crossmember is welded in. Kurt from Cruiser Outfitters has a FJ40 with the bell housing motor mounts and crossmember since the early 2000s. I reinstalled my mounts on the bell housing.

Quick Draw has adapters for other Cummins diesels but you will have to figure out where everything will sit before welding in. There bell housing only attaches the H55F to the block and does not have any attachment to the frame.

The TDI has such a small displacement that it cant flow enough air across the head and they have EGT issues. The larger displacement of the R2.8 breaths better. There is a video taken in Moab, UT where the compare the TDI and R2.8 and they both agreed that the R2.8 moves air better.
 
I have a Cummins R2.8 adapted to the 2F bell housing with H55F and split transfer case. I got my adapters from Overland Cruisers in Belgrade MT and since I used the 2F bell housing it became the datum point for locating the drive train front to back and side to side. The motor mounts in the kit bolt into the frame in existing holes to set there location before welding. Grind on the bell housing mounts so they clear the adapter plate and they locate the bell housing and gear boxes between the frame rails. Then you bolt up the crossmember from the kit with Toyota isolator and weld in the crossmember to the frame. The front motor mounts also use Toyota isolators. Once the welding is complete and have the assembly back in place you have the option to reuse the bell housing motor mounts or delete them once the crossmember is welded in. Kurt from Cruiser Outfitters has a FJ40 with the bell housing motor mounts and crossmember since the early 2000s. I reinstalled my mounts on the bell housing.

Quick Draw has adapters for other Cummins diesels but you will have to figure out where everything will sit before welding in. There bell housing only attaches the H55F to the block and does not have any attachment to the frame.

The TDI has such a small displacement that it cant flow enough air across the head and they have EGT issues. The larger displacement of the R2.8 breaths better. There is a video taken in Moab, UT where the compare the TDI and R2.8 and they both agreed that the R2.8 moves air better.
what kind of mpg are you getting out of it?
 
That is still unknown, I am not done. I will be happy if I get 20 mpg and with the new tank I am expecting a ~600 mile range.

The R2.8 heat soaks quick and anyone that has tried to run the electric fan has had cooling issues and switching to a mechanical fan and making sure the air flow goes through the cooking stack and not over the top. I will have a sheet metal cap made to direct air where it needs to be.

I am at the altitude 5200' where they experience problems on grades so for me I have to climb in 3 directions so I got an 18" fan from Quick Draw and a shroud from Man a Fre that bolted up to the 4 core direct replacement radiator. I had to move the radiator back and down to line up the shroud with the fan. That gave me room to put the steering cooler where the radiator use to be.

Here is my build with information and a lot of photos.
 
Check out @Godfather90 build page. He seems very happy with the tdi. He posts sum very impressive numbers.
 
what kind of mpg are you getting out of it?
I've got the same engine with an NV4500 and have been getting between 20 and 25 almost always.
Got 27 once on a highway run with the truck mostly unloaded. Driving 55-65 mph.
With a trailer full of camping stuff and a dirt bike I usually get 22mpg.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom