electric radiator fan?
- Thread starter theazfj62
- Start date
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has any one found on that fits well? I want to install one so then I don't have to have high rpm's to get good cooling.
Brandon-
I bought this fan about 12~15 years ago for the 85 4x4 Toyota PU. When I bought my Fj62 a few years back, I transfered the fan over to it. Great fan! and low cost.
You'll need to buy some 2x2 angle and some all thread, drill a few holes and your there.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/67015/10002/-1
inkpot
SILVER Star
I would PM ToolsRUs about refurbing your clutch fan. Have you done any other cooling system maintenance like flushing the system, replacing bulging hoses, etc? I would NOT recommend an undersized fan shrould for anyone in the Phoenix area. John
- Thread starter
- #5
so here is the info,
I replaced my water pump about 3 months ago and it was running a little hot but I went to the bogs Saturday nigh. I cleaned all the mud out of everything and the only thing that I could think of now is maybe a thermostat. I would like and powered fan so thin on the trail I don't have to worry about rpm's or moving a bit faster to get cool air moving. and I just hate having that big fan blocking everything.
The Ford Contour / Mercury Mystique fan is supposed to be pretty good:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/237250-ford-contour-fan-installation-thread.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/237250-ford-contour-fan-installation-thread.html
You have something else wrong. Stock fan cools just fine at a crawling speed. Finding and fixing that is easier and cheaper.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Other than the new water pump, I would make sure the rest of the system is at peak performance before I would add an electric pusher fan to suplement the cooling system. If original, the fan clutch is 25 years old and may need refurbished/replaced. Have the system flushed and the radiator core rodded/boiled out. Replace any hoses that appear soft and/or bulging around the clamps. I would never replace the mechanical fan with an electric. John
inkpot
SILVER Star
Those fans are for a 2.0 or 2.5 liter engine in a car that weighs half as much as this Land Cruiser. I don't think I would want that in the Sonoran Desert summer heat where lots of days are well over 110 degrees, and some nights never get cooler than 100.
Sooooo have you done any maintenance to the stock viscous clutch? I know when mine engages (even at idle) it ROARS sucking heaps of air through, more than an electric fan could hope too.
- Thread starter
- #11
it the fan clutch may be it because it's lound at higher rpm's when the truck is shifting ( auto trans) so that could be it. I didn't replace the clutch when I did the pump. It has fresh coolant So I know that's good. It's really staring to look like a bad thermostat. I am thinking about getting an 180 F so then it will open sooner.
Another vote for fix your stock fan clutch if it isn't driving the fan aggressively enough. Here's a thread that shows what's involved: https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/167678-fan-clutch-service.html There are other good threads on it in the 80 section as well.
I just went through my clutch again today. I should have used some sealant to back up the stock "o-ring" the first time I did it.
I just went through my clutch again today. I should have used some sealant to back up the stock "o-ring" the first time I did it
.
Helper fan?
How about a small helper fan mounted in the front of the condenser? I don't have enough amps with my stock alternator to feel comfortable with a full electric fan, but that should help with a/c at idle - an issue I'm currently wrestling with.
My issue is (slight hijack) that my idle up....ain't. Thinking I just may push the idle to 800 or so that the a/c load doesn't cause the lugging on the engine that it does when engaged. Since it will most likely remain engaged till October. I do concur that the stock mechanical fan does pull an enormous amount of air, but in the desert I wouldn't mind a little extra help when sitting at a light at low RPM.
Glenn in Tucson
How about a small helper fan mounted in the front of the condenser? I don't have enough amps with my stock alternator to feel comfortable with a full electric fan, but that should help with a/c at idle - an issue I'm currently wrestling with.
My issue is (slight hijack) that my idle up....ain't. Thinking I just may push the idle to 800 or so that the a/c load doesn't cause the lugging on the engine that it does when engaged. Since it will most likely remain engaged till October. I do concur that the stock mechanical fan does pull an enormous amount of air, but in the desert I wouldn't mind a little extra help when sitting at a light at low RPM.
Glenn in Tucson
The Contour fan cools far and away better than the factory clutch fan, and with the DC Controls controller, there's no huge amperage draw as it spins up. I've driven across Washington state in late summer, going up the passes in 3rd gear with the A/C on in 110+ degree weather, and my engine's temperature stayed right where it should be. The Contour fans will have zero problems cooling a 2F or 3FE in any conditions.
In the five years I've had it installed I have not had a single problem with it, and it hasn't even come close to having to struggle to keep up with any level of heat.
Another vote for the contour fans. I love mine.
There was an auxiliary fan available from Toyota in the markets that had rear AC, not sure if it's still available or if you could get it in NA. Would definitely help out with the AC temps at idle.
- Thread starter
- #19
So I think that I may have gotten all the mud out of my radiator and it should run better seeing as it shouldnt have blockage
but i am still replacing the thermostat and the fan clutch from autozone (life free replacement)
any tips?
but i am still replacing the thermostat and the fan clutch from autozone (life free replacement)
any tips?
Hints
It is just barely possible to pull the fan clutch with the fan attached without removing the shroud. Keeping the belt tight will help in removing the nuts that hold the fan clutch, but will pull the pulley slightly off due to tension - you'll have to work it carefully when putting it back together. Can't remember if those are 12/13/14's.
Yes, you want to leave the belt on. If you remove the belt, the pulley spins, and it will take a strap wrench on the pulley to remove the nuts. I back them off a little at a time with a box wrench as it keeps the tension equal the longest. Once you have got the nuts almost off of the thread with the wrench, you should be able to get them off with you fingers for the last couple of turns and pull them in an outward direction from the shafts (towards the fenders). Make sure to set them aside carefully as if you drop them underneath it's not fun to go spelunking on the plate and front area that alre almost always greasy and dirty.
Then you can wiggle the fan clutch loose from the water pump and then *CAREFULLY* move the fan clutch and fan in towards the radiator and then back out. Watch your fingers and the radiator itself. When you reassemble you do the similar - mount the clutch just enough to get those threads started, and then tighten down a little on each to keep the tension equal and let the pulley seat back down on the water pump.
Or do what I did and give up and cut the damn radiator shroud in two so you can have full access to the fan and clutch and water pump. Search for "splitting shroud" on the board and there are several threads. Used a sawzall with a bimetal blade and it took less than minute. Chased with with a file for the more obvious sharp points. I did this with my last fan clutch replacement and it makes it a helluva lot easier. I haven't noticed any problems with the air draw, and the shroud is of good enough gauge metal that it stays in place. When done, you can remove just the top half of the shroud and be able to lean in from over the radiator. Much easier.
Would also recommend you check the shaft of the water pump for wobble while you're down there. My vatozone no-name water pump had some significant play - I ordered a new one from Cruiser Dan as I was tired of dinking around with "lifetime" replacement parts that don't last that long.
Best of luck,
Glenn
It is just barely possible to pull the fan clutch with the fan attached without removing the shroud. Keeping the belt tight will help in removing the nuts that hold the fan clutch, but will pull the pulley slightly off due to tension - you'll have to work it carefully when putting it back together. Can't remember if those are 12/13/14's.
Yes, you want to leave the belt on. If you remove the belt, the pulley spins, and it will take a strap wrench on the pulley to remove the nuts. I back them off a little at a time with a box wrench as it keeps the tension equal the longest. Once you have got the nuts almost off of the thread with the wrench, you should be able to get them off with you fingers for the last couple of turns and pull them in an outward direction from the shafts (towards the fenders). Make sure to set them aside carefully as if you drop them underneath it's not fun to go spelunking on the plate and front area that alre almost always greasy and dirty.
Then you can wiggle the fan clutch loose from the water pump and then *CAREFULLY* move the fan clutch and fan in towards the radiator and then back out. Watch your fingers and the radiator itself. When you reassemble you do the similar - mount the clutch just enough to get those threads started, and then tighten down a little on each to keep the tension equal and let the pulley seat back down on the water pump.
Or do what I did and give up and cut the damn radiator shroud in two so you can have full access to the fan and clutch and water pump. Search for "splitting shroud" on the board and there are several threads. Used a sawzall with a bimetal blade and it took less than minute. Chased with with a file for the more obvious sharp points. I did this with my last fan clutch replacement and it makes it a helluva lot easier. I haven't noticed any problems with the air draw, and the shroud is of good enough gauge metal that it stays in place. When done, you can remove just the top half of the shroud and be able to lean in from over the radiator. Much easier.
Would also recommend you check the shaft of the water pump for wobble while you're down there. My vatozone no-name water pump had some significant play - I ordered a new one from Cruiser Dan as I was tired of dinking around with "lifetime" replacement parts that don't last that long.
Best of luck,
Glenn
