Electric Power Steering in a 78 FJ40. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter thecrazygreek
- Start date
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Thanks @Sol7. The 4:00 position won't work for me b/c of the hand brake. I'm pretty sure 9:00 will but the fuse box is going to be very close. I can make a bracket to move that down a few inches easy enough. I can't decide if I'm going to leave the control box connected or mount it remotely....easy enough to do after the install.
Did you have to trim anything other then the clutch pedal?
Did you have to trim anything other then the clutch pedal?
No. Only the clutch pedal.
There is enough clearance to the (stock) fuse box when mounted in 9:00 position.
I also checked this option, but because of worm drive the e-motor sits off-center to the steering shaft, I found the steering a little bit too much eye-catching...
There is enough clearance to the (stock) fuse box when mounted in 9:00 position.
I also checked this option, but because of worm drive the e-motor sits off-center to the steering shaft, I found the steering a little bit too much eye-catching...
Thanks - looks like the fuse box should be OK.
Unrelated ? - In your 4th photo HERE - is there suppose to be a seal at the end of the shaft where it enters the outer tube? Neither my truck or the spare donor shaft had that.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #66
I did some thinking and since my rig is not smog equipped, I decided to use the computers bracket and mate it with the Eps controller to solve my mounting problem.
The back of the computers mounting plate had tabs in it that I used to secure the Eps controller with. It was like it was built to hold the Eps controller.
Very happy with my mounting solution. No drilling no mods to the truck.
Only question is, did I need that computer forcanything?
The back of the computers mounting plate had tabs in it that I used to secure the Eps controller with. It was like it was built to hold the Eps controller.
Very happy with my mounting solution. No drilling no mods to the truck.
Only question is, did I need that computer forcanything?
If you had a non-factory steering setup but wanted to use this system, how hard would it be to get a u-joint connection on the end of the shaft instead of the rag joint? Would there be welding involved and would it need to have a bearing installed like the stock column does?
For reference, I'm thinking something like a reversed 525 box mounted like an Astro box.
For reference, I'm thinking something like a reversed 525 box mounted like an Astro box.
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I don't have the answer to your question, but I know the factory has fitted EPS on Ididit steering columns. I also know that Icon uses Ididit steering columns in their FJ44.
I am currently in the design srage. Building from scratch. Can you please tell me how you hooked up the left battery and what balancer you used? I am also on a 24v system like yourself. Also i would like to know how many splines are on the shaft and which couplers you needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ever so much.Hi,
I finished installation of the EZ steering kit into my '82 BJ42 24V diesel EUR version about two weeks ago.
After (only a few) kilometers, first impression is very positive. Just returned from a test ride after installing a smaller steering wheel. It's an old MOMO D=36cm, which caused me some difficulties to purchase the right hub.
Especially with the small steering, characteristic of the whole car has changed very much, drives like a go-kart now - at least when I forget about the low HP
Install is easy, Kit is certified by TUEV, which is very important here in Germany if you want your car to be street-legal (nearly everything you bolt into your car needs to be approved and certified).
In case the EPS fails, steering behaves as before install. Electric support is only active and noticeable when force is needed, Steering returns to zero-position like before. Other than for modern cars, support is not speed dependent, but it's adjustable between 'nothing' and 'more than enough'.
So far I can see nearly no negative aspects, only (perhaps) negative point - the maximum power is limited. Enough for street and/or trailer use, even with a small steering wheel, but by far not as powerful as the J4 hydraulic system. It uses a 40Amp fuse, I measured a max draw of 35Amp@12V.
Unfortunately there is no real 24V version available, a 24/12V converter is required, or has to be be connected to left battery plus a balancer (like I did).
Let me know if you have further questions - or wait for crazygeeks report...
Peter
Hi BustedBanjo,
before the steering install i used a simple 24>12V 8A step-down converter for the radio and trailer socket, but I was never really lucky with it, because the (trailer) stop lights caused ugly noises from the speakers, or the radio even restarted.
Since the EPS uses up to 40 amps under full load, a relatively large and expensive converter would be required.
So I went for this cheap chinese thing here:
Battery equalizer used for lead-acid batteris Balancer charger lead acid battery
Installation is totally independent from the EPS, the balancer is connected permanently to both batteries, and it only makes sure that the batteries are kept on the same charge level. Idle current is <3mA
After installation I checked voltage of both batteries from time to time, and immediately after stopping the car there is indeed a difference up to .2V, but after 1 or 2hrs they are in sync again.
The ECU install is pretty much the same than with a single-battery vehicle, with one exception. The permanent "+" goes directly to the left battery + (via a 40A fuse), but the ECU's switched-input-wire must not be connected directly to the ACC ignition switch terminal - since that's 24 Volts. You need to add a 24V Relay, connect the coil to "-" and ACC terminal, and wire the relay between left batt "+" and ECU switched input.
Sorry for my poor English, hope you understand what I mean. In case you are in doubt, add some extra fuses
About the shaft splines - are you planning to install a different steering wheel ?
Peter
before the steering install i used a simple 24>12V 8A step-down converter for the radio and trailer socket, but I was never really lucky with it, because the (trailer) stop lights caused ugly noises from the speakers, or the radio even restarted.
Since the EPS uses up to 40 amps under full load, a relatively large and expensive converter would be required.
So I went for this cheap chinese thing here:
Battery equalizer used for lead-acid batteris Balancer charger lead acid battery
Installation is totally independent from the EPS, the balancer is connected permanently to both batteries, and it only makes sure that the batteries are kept on the same charge level. Idle current is <3mA
After installation I checked voltage of both batteries from time to time, and immediately after stopping the car there is indeed a difference up to .2V, but after 1 or 2hrs they are in sync again.
The ECU install is pretty much the same than with a single-battery vehicle, with one exception. The permanent "+" goes directly to the left battery + (via a 40A fuse), but the ECU's switched-input-wire must not be connected directly to the ACC ignition switch terminal - since that's 24 Volts. You need to add a 24V Relay, connect the coil to "-" and ACC terminal, and wire the relay between left batt "+" and ECU switched input.
Sorry for my poor English, hope you understand what I mean. In case you are in doubt, add some extra fuses
About the shaft splines - are you planning to install a different steering wheel ?
Peter
what is the lift/tire combo on the 40?
each person having their own thread outlining their own install and unique issues would make this thread less cluttered.
Each install is a bit different due to the many manufacturing variances/options/aftermarket modifications.
each person having their own thread outlining their own install and unique issues would make this thread less cluttered.
Each install is a bit different due to the many manufacturing variances/options/aftermarket modifications.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #73
31x10.50 on the tires. 2.5 inch lift.
Update**
Got all the wiring hooked up. You need to run one thick red wire to the batt (always hot) and the other thinner red wire to switched power. I also mounted my adjustment knob just under the drivers side bolt that holds the steering column to the dash.
I decided to run these wires directly off the two blades on the fuse box that were not being used.
The reason is because it's very convenient and close to each other.
Anyway... hooked it up, turned the key and bam I have power steering. It wasn't as much assist as I thought it would be, but I think that's a good thing. Definitely not a one finger assist.
It also had a slight kick back a couple of times. Not sure what that is. I will give it a road test on the next sunny day.
Update**
Got all the wiring hooked up. You need to run one thick red wire to the batt (always hot) and the other thinner red wire to switched power. I also mounted my adjustment knob just under the drivers side bolt that holds the steering column to the dash.
I decided to run these wires directly off the two blades on the fuse box that were not being used.
The reason is because it's very convenient and close to each other.
Anyway... hooked it up, turned the key and bam I have power steering. It wasn't as much assist as I thought it would be, but I think that's a good thing. Definitely not a one finger assist.
It also had a slight kick back a couple of times. Not sure what that is. I will give it a road test on the next sunny day.
I will give it a road test on the next sunny day.
Waiting for a sunny day here in western Oregon is like playing russian roulette.
Don
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
Installed PS pics please.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #76
Heh.. yep... This weekend looks like it might be okay...
I'll have some pics of the final mounting up here later today...
Does the Kick back occur under high load ? Maybe a wiring or ground issue. Eventually caused by undervoltage/reset of the ECU ? Remember it's up to 40Amp......Definitely not a one finger assist.
It also had a slight kick back a couple of times. Not sure what that is...
Peter
The kickback shouldn't happen. Sounds like a calibration issue - I'd get that resolved before driving. There is a procedure to calibrate mine - which isn't a EZ unit but probably similar.
1973Guppie
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I did not even realize these were available? very cool, curious about the cheapest place to purchase the kit? I looked on eBay and about $2k which you can do a saginaw or mini truck ps conversion at that price. Not sure if this would be an option for me unless the prices come down a bit. I can see it being an option if costs were around $500-$1k......
You can get a better price on my site, but it won't be sub-$1000 by any stretch. If you're willing to DIY your own kit, a Mudder just reported a $600-ish option in this thread (with caveats of course
).
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