EGT's with your 1HD-T (1 Viewer)

[wussyPup]

I'd recommend a tranny temp gauge, though, if you are ever towing or lugging large loads up long hills. The auto tranny tends to run hot, and by the time the AT Temp warning light comes on, she's hotter than she should be.

Yup... 35s, 2500 lb trailer, holding 80 km/h up a long medium grade hill on a hot afternoon, no external cooler, no temp gauge == AT Temp warning light, ATF gushing onto the highway, and damaged torque converter and pump

I'm still sourcing parts to repair, but I'm also considering ordering a complete Extreme Transmission from Wholesale Auto in Oz. Either way, I'm parked for a couple weeks or months if I do a complete changeover.

I had downshifted manually to 3'rd to keep the revs between 2000 and 3000 but the torque converter only locks up in OD, so although the 1HD-T was probably breathing fine and not overheating the torque converter was burning up.

I mistakenly thought that the warning light meant "slow down, pull over, and cool off" - it really means "call a tow truck"

-Steve

 

[crushers]

i have found most "idiot" lights mean that...
are you going to install a tranny temp guage on reinstallation?

 

[wussyPup]

i have found most "idiot" lights mean that...
are you going to install a tranny temp guage on reinstallation?

yup, even this idiot can learn...
tranny temp gauge, cooler and Extreme valve body are in the plans

-Steve

 

[crushers]

don't feel bad, i bought a BJ40 a few years back with under 100,000K original and when i got it home i decided to fire it up. it wouldn't stay running so i checked the oil, right up. disconected the oil low oil shutdown sensor and a few minutes later, the engine seized....
this idiot also learned an expensive lesson...

 

[Tapage]

I mistakenly thought that the warning light meant "slow down, pull over, and cool off" - it really means "call a tow truck"

If you read the owners manual is claims, ATF oil temp light comes on .. find a safe place to parking and leave it ( your tranny ) in N or P position until the lights comes off ..

I thought it depends mucha as your overhead your tranny in my case one time the light comes on when I climbing ober 2000 mts over sea, with OD on ..

Greg .. is posible buy a extreme valve body for A442 in Canada . ?

 

[Greg_B]

Greg .. is posible buy a extreme valve body for A442 in Canada . ?

No Cdn distributor at this point. Marko from http://www.outbackimports.ca is offering the extreme line as an upgrade at time of purchase. If you are looking to do your own rig, talk to Rodney direct in Oz.

gb

 

[Tapage]

No Cdn distributor at this point. Marko from http://www.outbackimports.ca is offering the extreme line as an upgrade at time of purchase. If you are looking to do your own rig, talk to Rodney direct in Oz.

gb

Thanks Greg ..

 

[jcolvin]

Yup... 35s, 2500 lb trailer, holding 80 km/h up a long medium grade hill on a hot afternoon, no external cooler, no temp gauge == AT Temp warning light, ATF gushing onto the highway, and damaged torque converter and pump

I'm still sourcing parts to repair, but I'm also considering ordering a complete Extreme Transmission from Wholesale Auto in Oz. Either way, I'm parked for a couple weeks or months if I do a complete changeover.

I had downshifted manually to 3'rd to keep the revs between 2000 and 3000 but the torque converter only locks up in OD, so although the 1HD-T was probably breathing fine and not overheating the torque converter was burning up.

I mistakenly thought that the warning light meant "slow down, pull over, and cool off" - it really means "call a tow truck"

-Steve

Ouch! That's painful. Yep, once you are out of overdrive it's BBQ time. Downshifting to keep the revs up helps a bit (lugging the tranny seems to make the temps climb even more quickly), but there's no substitute for a temp gauge.

Rodney said he was developing a kit that will allow T/C lockup in all gears even with the all-hydraulic A442F on our 1HD-T's. It will require an air source apparently. I'm not sure what the status of this project is, but it is definitely something that would be a must-have anywhere with big hills.

Unfortunately no-one seems to make an aftermarket torque converter for this tranny that will fix the overheating problem.

 

[-uhuru-]

My readings are anywhere between 600F - 1000F on flats ... depending where the foot is ... 1200 max in flats with the pedal to the metal ... if I'm not in the proper gear on hills she will easily go to 1300F +

This is on a 1HZ turbo intercooler from All American Imports and 8.5 PSI boost. Fuel anaroid kit installed and a little overfueled.

I plan on keeping this fuel setting and increasing boost to aprox. 11 PSI ... this should drop EGT's considerably.

 

[denis]

you will decrease your EGT but increase your peak cylinder temperature and pressure. What benefit will you get from this ?

 

[-uhuru-]

you will decrease your EGT but increase your peak cylinder temperature and pressure. What benefit will you get from this ?

I will get more horsepower and lower EGT's

It is my understanding that cylinder temperature and EGT's are related proportionally.

However what you said makes it sound as if they are inversly proportional. Lower EGT's mean higher cylinder temperature

By adding more air the engine will be able to burn most of the diesel fuel resulting in cylinder temperature drop, ironically.

Thats the way I learned it, could be wrong.

Cheers,

 

[denis]

Once you have the necessary air you don't need to add more. There's a ratio above which the additionnal air pumped in and out is a pure thermodynamic loss.

 

[Tapage]

Once you have the necessary air you don't need to add more. There's a ratio above which the additionnal air pumped in and out is a pure thermodynamic loss.

It means you must need to maka a balance between proper boost and fuel .. right.

But in this case, you have high egt ( or more than you want see in your gauge ) with reazonable fuel in the mix ..

But down the fuel means loos power and boost .. right . ? also EGT for sure, but waht is the turbo idea if you don't have this push that you want .!

 

[-uhuru-]

Once you have the necessary air you don't need to add more. There's a ratio above which the additionnal air pumped in and out is a pure thermodynamic loss.

My point exactly, I beleive I don't have the necessary amount of air for the amount of fuel the pump is delivering. I think I can still afford more boost whithout detrimental effects to pistons, cylinders, and head.

Increasing boost should reduce EGT's and cylinder head temperature. The best indicator of cylinder temperature is the EGT.

I understand your point, after a certain amount of boost your just heating up the air by compressing so much of it with one turbine and at the same time your increasing cylinder compression (therefore raising temp. and pressure).

This is not that case, many aussies push 12 - 15 PSI of boost with similar setups and claim temperatures well below 1250F.

AFAIK the treshold where boost pressure is pernicious to an H series engine is yet to be determined (excluding turbine damage).

 

[Tapage]

This is not that case, many aussies push 12 - 15 PSI of boost with similar setups and claim temperatures well below 1250F.

Nice issue in your setup dude is you have a intercooler .. that it's suppose to down the temp of all compresed air in the intake and head.

AFAIK the treshold where boost pressure is pernicious to an H series engine is yet to be determined (excluding turbine damage).

you will see soon !

 

[NCR2006]

Hi,

Decided to follow your advise and installed a pyro and gauge post-turbo (94 1HDT with air-to-liquid intercooler, BF MUD 33s and overfueled, boost pressure at 0,75 bar).
I'm getting 350º/450ºC on flat runs at 2,400RPM (120 KPH). In case I floor it, the temperatures can rise to 750º or more going up steep hills!
I try not to exceed 550º C, wich somentimes means no more than 90/100 KPH going up hills in the highway...
I intend to increase the boost to 0,9 bar and I'm hoping EGTs will drop. If not, maybe it would be advisable to decrease fuel...

What do you think?

 

[big80]

I have a 95' 1HZ, with DTS kit, boost compensater, 3" mandrell exhaust, intercooler, and 11psi. Truck has 315/75/16 tyres, and wieghs around 2850-2900kg loaded. on the freeway, it sits between 280*C-350*C, and only ever rises to 480-500*C on very long, drawn out hills (never change out of 5th gear either). this is measured post-turbo, about 2.5" away from the turbo. used to get to 550*C very quickly before i did the i/c, but i havent actually seen it get to 500 now, even in soft sand.

 

[diesel junkie]

OE turbo? .9 bar is getting up there, id go .85 max undesized stock compressor wheel likes to let go.More air will help though.
Liquid/air intercooler ARE ?

 

[NCR2006]

Liquid/air intercooler ARE ?

I'm sorry...but I dont understand your question?

 

[diesel junkie]

sorry bout that, ARE in Aus make a really nice liquid/air charge cooler.