Easiest Alternator Removal ??? (1 Viewer)

[deltapine1]

I have read several threads as well as swapped on 80 series alternator previously. I am missing something as I read the alternator can be swapped without removing the battery, battery tray, oil filter and Power Steering Reservoir to Pump hose. The last swap I assisted on we pulled the fan shroud and fan and brought it out the front. It seems everyone else is able to pull the oil filter and come out the back without touching the battery, battery tray or power steering at all.

What am I missing? Does the charcoal canister have to come out?

 

[Fosters]

Managed to pull my alternator this weekend…
Loosen belts…remove belts…undo PS reservoir….move to the rear…disconnect ground or grounds on batteries…pull plugs from alternator,disconnect power wire from alternator…remove pivot bolt from alternator, remove lower bolt at adjuster bracket…wriggle alternator out and up by oil filter and dipstick…(this was in a sequoia 150 amp alternator)

 

[deltapine1]

Nowhere near as involved as a swap on a 100. Thanks for the info. Sounds like we took alot of extra steps on the last one.

 

[CharlieS]

I take the battery and battery tray out, which isn't a big deal or a job that takes long. So much easier with all that room to work.

Remove the bolts holding the PS reservoir to the intake plenum.

Watch that radiator nipple!!

 

[Malleus]

I have read several threads as well as swapped on 80 series alternator previously. I am missing something as I read the alternator can be swapped without removing the battery, battery tray, oil filter and Power Steering Reservoir to Pump hose. The last swap I assisted on we pulled the fan shroud and fan and brought it out the front. It seems everyone else is able to pull the oil filter and come out the back without touching the battery, battery tray or power steering at all.

What am I missing? Does the charcoal canister have to come out?

You can remove the alternator without removing anything else. If your hands are the size of an 8 year old's. It's far easier to remove the battery and battery box before you try to remove the alternator. Having done this more times than I can count, this is the bare minimum needed to give you enough room to work. The torx head on the tensioner bolt was intended to make the job easier, but there's no room to get at it with the hoses in the way. A ratcheting combination wrench does help greatly.

I make it a point to thoroughly clean all the mounting hardawre when I remove one. I also liberally grease the tensioner bolt with vaseline before I install it. This makes removal next time much easier, as does keeping a generally clean engine compartment.

 

[CharlieS]

Also, not sure it is smart, but I use my makita cordless ratchet with a deep socket to spin the long bolt on the alternator out. It is just the right size for that space.

 

[Kernal]

Ditto: I remove the battery and battery box, just makes the job less frustrating and easier on my (finger) knuckles. A small cordless impact driver with some extensions and a wobble or flex joint to move the adjusting bolt makes it go faster. FWIW

 

[Irish Reiver]

I had an alternator fail on me in Missouri. Luckily i had just passed an O'Reillys so i circled back. They didn't have one in stock but said they could get one in 45 minutes as the main warehouse was just up the road. They borrowed me a few tools and by the time the new part arrived i had the old alternator removed and had some lunch. Removing the battery and box makes this a simple job. O'Reilly's even put my battery on the charger while i was waiting.
So I'm setting the bar at 45 minutes

 

[fjbj40]

Sometimes it’s way easier(less frustrating/less chance of collateral damage) to remove/disassemble than it is to struggle to remove components.

 

[BILT4ME]

I have done a 45 minute swap by pulling the battery and box.

 

[joxeale]

Take out the battery, battery tray. Move away the steering reservoir. Loosen both belts. Take off bolt for the block that attaches to the tightening bracket. Take off connectors from the back of the alternator. Remove top alternator bolt. Slide it out, insert new one.

 

[deltapine1]

I went the route of pulling the Charcoal Canister and then laying the power steering reservoir and accelerator cable out of the way. 262k miles on the original alternator and the plug was stuck in the back of the alternator so I had to order a plug. Brittle plastic sucks.

Thanks for all the help! Good advice from everyone.

 

[davidp14]

I removed battery and bix and unbolted ps reservoir and bungee-ed it out of the way. Less than an hour including beer drinking time and bs-ing with the peanut gallery that was watching me work.

 

[deltapine1]

I prefer to go OEM with parts including electrical plugs but if you find yourself replacing an alternator and the three wire plug in the back of the alternator crumbles into pieces a Standard Part No. S2533 can be de-pinned and accepts the factory pins and weather grommets with firm clicks. It also fits tight in the back of an OEM Toyota alternator.

I have a Toyota plug on the way but didn't want to be without "Beulah" for the weekend. I will swap it out later.

My alternator & radiator are shining bright like the moon last night!