Early FJ40 wiper motor restoration (1 Viewer)

[thundermcawesum]

As you can see, my rod is in bad shape!

Maybe my rig is just old and needs some Viagra.

I’ve since removed the old electrical tape and weird wire wrapping so that I can get the internals moving.

LOL

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I have a spare that is MUCH better, but the wrap has seen better days. PM me for info

 

[mtn biker]

Yesterday I had to drive through a desert monsoon knowing that my wipers were nonfunctioning. I know that I need to replace the electrical connector for it and I was just thinking about rebuilding it. I am glad you developed this thread and I will be following it to a "T" when I do mine. Needless to say I am going to find a way that I can find it again.

 

[mtn biker]

Brusher Holder, Soldering, Reassembly

I realized at this point that I made a silly mistake earlier. I had looked at the brushes with the rotor shaft taken out, which made them look much shorter than they were in fact. These brushes actually are ok (this was verified by testing the unit later).

I then put a brand new 4 pin connector (thanks @Coolerman ) on, cleaned the wires, and inspected the wire covering. Hard to believe, but the covering looked very good so I left it.

Next, mounted the parking switch to the newly painted and clear coated motor housing. Feed the wires back up through the large hole, then solder to appropriate terminals. Which color goes where should be in a previous post on this thread.

Put the tension adjusting screw and nut back in, and tighten until a reasonable amount of tension if placed on the rotor screw. It shouldn't be able to move back and forth, but don't make it so tight you wear out the bearing or burn out the motor.

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What is the air gap that you set the copper arms at? it seems that when i got mine back together the air gap wasn't right or something and the wipers still wont work.

 

[thundermcawesum]

What is the air gap that you set the copper arms at? it seems that when i got mine back together the air gap wasn't right or something and the wipers still wont work.

I don’t have a set value, but you would set them such that the middle arm does not make contact with the upper arm when the plunger is at its lowest point. Each of the copper arms should have a fiber insulator plate between them. If you want to post pictures of your set up, feel free and I can take a look.

 

[mtn biker]

I don’t have a set value, but you would set them such that the middle arm does not make contact with the upper arm when the plunger is at its lowest point. Each of the copper arms should have a fiber insulator plate between them. If you want to post pictures of your set up, feel free and I can take a look.

Since I have put them back in this is the best angle that i could get that and it was already dark when I remembered to go get the pictures

 

[thundermcawesum]

Since I have put them back in this is the best angle that i could get that and it was already dark when I remembered to go get the picturesView attachment 3164066

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Hard to tell with that angle. I would need a close up profile shot of the switch.

Does the motor work at all? I would check those butt splices and any solder points.

 

[Birdhead]

Text/call me I never heard if you received the two I sent.

 

[thundermcawesum]

Since I have put them back in this is the best angle that i could get that and it was already dark when I remembered to go get the picturesView attachment 3164066

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Did you ever figure your unit out?

 

[mtn biker]

Did you ever figure your unit out?

no my adhd has gotten the better of me and i do need to get back in it

 

[thundermcawesum]

No worries!

 

[h82crash]

This part is the worst

I hate this part with a burning passion. It is time to remove the circlip that keeps the drive arm inside the outer brass tube on the motor cover. This is the post that the wiper arm attaches to. There is no good way to do this (as far as I know) and 8/10 you will cut yourself jamming tiny screwdrivers in there. 1/10 you will succeed in getting it off, only to have it fly off and land the next state over. 1/10 times it will be just fine.

Notice there is some slight spalling on the part of the drive arm right above the groove that holds the circlip. I had to file this down in order to get the arm out of the housing.

Nota Bene: There is a shim (very thin washer) that goes between the gear and the brass tube on the inside of the cover. There are a bunch of these in the motor, and they can very easily get lost and/or stuck to old grease that you throw out. Be very careful when taking moving parts out, and write down what goes where.

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Just did this today. Took me 1/2 hour in trying multiple tools and techniques to get this ring off. After figuring it out, I got the second one off in 10 seconds. Put the brass tube in a vise with soft jaws at an angle leaving access to the end with the ring. Use a small but sharp screwdriver to jam the ring so it doesn't spin on you. Take a straight dental pick to the open end of the ring your not jamming and push it under the ring in line with the groove. Comes right off.

 

[thundermcawesum]

Just did this today. Took me 1/2 hour in trying multiple tools and techniques to get this ring off. After figuring it out, I got the second one off in 10 seconds. Put the brass tube in a vise with soft jaws at an angle leaving access to the end with the ring. Use a small but sharp screwdriver to jam the ring so it doesn't spin on you. Take a straight dental pick to the open end of the ring your not jamming and push it under the ring in line with the groove. Comes right off.

This has serious potential. I’ll have to grab some nylon covers or something for my vise jaws. Thanks for the tip!

 

[thundermcawesum]

Update time!

Currently working on two units for @gmac1
Wanted to post an issue I ran into. Sometimes when I work on these the crappy pot metal cracks. This is one of the driver's side drive units that cracked as I was trying to bend it back into shape.

My solution was to first dig out some of the good metal around the crack, then fill in with JB Weld. I am hoping that this will give the epoxy more to grab onto.

 

[thundermcawesum]

After that, mixed up epoxy, allowed it to harden, then sanded smooth. The epoxy itself feathers pretty well, almost as well as the body filler I use. Here it is filled in and first pass sanded.

 

[thundermcawesum]

Skipped a few steps, but essentially I added more epoxy, sanded, applied a very small amount of filler, sanded, primed.
Finished product (minus top coat and clear)

 

[thundermcawesum]

Small update:
I refreshed a mud member’s wiper unit recently and noticed his brush holder had melted. The damage was minimal enough that I figured I could repair it rather than trash the whole holder. I ended up using moldavle epoxy to reform the channel around the new brush. Worked very well.
Damage:

 

[thundermcawesum]

Fix:

 

[thundermcawesum]

If anyone is interested in a rebuild or full restoration let me know!

 

[1969FJ]

If anyone is interested in a rebuild or full restoration let me know!

Soon.

 

[Firemedic831]

Would you have any source for the plastic park switch cover ?