Early FJ40 door lock cylinder removal?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

RattleCan

RattleCan

10 Year
Joined
Feb 15, 2012
Threads
62
Messages
265
Location
Black Diamond, Wa
Got the door latches off my 1969 FJ40 but was unsure of how to get the lock cylinders out. Figured I would ask here before I started mangling things.

Also, is the lock cylinder a generic size I could get from a locksmith or is it a strictly dealer/internet part?

Thanks in advance!:cheers:
 
You'll need to remove the interior portion of the door lever and lock, it's pretty straight forward, just nuts and screws. The lock cylinder is held in place with a spring clip inside the door panel. It's safer to do with the door laying flat in case you fumble the clip (in which case you'll end up taking off the door or be looking for a long magnet).
 
if you need a new one, Cruisercorps sells the whole lock/handle assembly for, like, $35 each side
 
reddingcruiser said:
You'll need to remove the interior portion of the door lever and lock, it's pretty straight forward, just nuts and screws. The lock cylinder is held in place with a spring clip inside the door panel. It's safer to do with the door laying flat in case you fumble the clip (in which case you'll end up taking off the door or be looking for a long magnet).
Click to expand...

What he said^^^
 
Am I missing something or am I gonna have to shell out 30$ plus 8$ shipping for one lock cylinder.

The one in the 40 is rusted, might give it a second look and see if its salvageable. But realisticly didn't wanna mess with a 45 year old lock every time I enter the 40:crybaby:.

This may be one of the times I don't think it so cool to drive such an old somewhat rare vehicle.
 
Shoot it with some WD40 and let it set for a day or two. Shoot it again with WD40 and try the key. Once things free up, if they do, shoot it with brake cleaner and let it dry. After it is dry shoot it with some dry lock lubricant.

Good Luck!
 
I just replaced them on my 76 with early doors. As said previously, take off inner handle assembly and inspection cover. You will need to push the retainer clip up off the lock and it will come right out. Getting the new one in is harder but doable. I taped the clip to a length of 1 x 1/4 inch bar stock and used access opening to insert in door. Needs to be thin because it needs to slide behind window channel inside door. Then use the bar stock to apply leverage to push the clip down. If you drop the clip you should be able to get to it through the inspection opening. I picked up 2 locks from Lowes Toyota for about the same price as Cruiser corps. E-mail Sam, great guy to order from.

John
 
for $38 it is not worth all of the hassle of farting around with it replace it and your good for years to come! buy the new one it is not hard to replace them. once you have the door off much easier to work on. FJmoneypit is right on it step by step!
 
Clarification

That was 2 locks from Sam at Lowes Toyota for the price of one at Crusier Corps.
 
I just bought a set of locks; front doors, rear doors, and gas door; from coolcruisers.com in Texas for $100 + $8 shipping ($50 for matched front set, $30 for rear, $20 for gas). I searched around for a while and it was the best deal I could find.

Pulled the lock cylinder out of the front door on my 1982 BJ42 last night. I didn't think it was very hard -- especially if you have skinny fingers like me. After I got the door panel off, it was no problem to reach in and push the retaining spring up off the lock cylinder. I didn't even drop it! Then the cylinder came right out.

I'll try to remember to post about how the installation of the new cylinders goes.
 
$38 to secure your TLC - I have mine on order from CCOT - doors, ignition & rear hatch - money well spent. The instructions from reddingcruiser seem spot on.
 
The last set I got from the dealership were $18. The locksmith wanted $45. Keep them lubed with oil or graphite and you'll never need to replace them again.




Btw never use wd40 in locks.... Itll ruin them.
 
Ha. did mine on my old '73 some years ago.. The most difficult and frustrating job ever done.. The job was done in the fitted position, didnt think to lay it flat.. I taught myself several new swear words that day.... Grrrr
 
Im gonna take your lesson to heart before i do my door locks.
 
Parke said:
I'll try to remember to post about how the installation of the new cylinders goes.
Click to expand...

Just put 'em in! It wasn't much trouble at all and probably took me an hour all told. The most time consuming part was just gently removing the front door panels (and especially window crank). I didn't both taking the doors off and laying them flat. I don't think it would have saved me any time. Again, skinny hands are a big help for removing and installing the retaining springs that hold the cylinder against the door. If you have beefy hands, just getting your kid/wife/girlfriend to pop the springs in and out might save you a lot of time (it does take some finger strength though).

The ambulance door was just a matter of removing several screws to pull the plate on the inside of the door off and reveal the lock cylinder -- no need to remove the door panel. This requires removing the nut that holds the outside door handle in as well. The retaining spring for that lock was the hardest to install, but still not to bad.

Overall, this was a pretty easy project, even for a rookie mechanic like me. Now all my doors open easily with keys!
 
I'm about to throw a sledge hammer at this door lock cylinder. bought a new replacement, took out the old but wasnt able to see which direction the retaining clip needed to go in at. I took about an hour and a half fiddling with it, long story short after about 45 magnetic fishing expeditions I put it all back together, took the tape off the lock cylinder on the outside of the door and the cylinder fell right out. obviously I didn't get the clip in correctly. which way should the clip itself be installed? with the bent U at the top of the cylinder pointing outwards towards the door, i.e. laying flat against the door or the top of the U pointing towards the interior? I've tried taping that thing to pieces of metal, screwdrivers, etc. no luck. Does the door handle go through the U shape or does the clip sit below the handle when properly installed? is it Option A or Option B? are there any known videos of this that people have? Are there any aftermarket options to forgo this clip and cylinder method and install something else on the early doors? Besides changing the doors out to later model years.

Option A.webp


Option B.webp
 
I have got a 1972 FJ40 , lost key for drivers and back lift doors same key fitted both. Number on locks 3656 can this key be got.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom