Dual Battery setup (1 Viewer)

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Taking inspiration from various threads, I am starting on this project to get a DIY dual battery setup. This is to track my progress and help from existing members who have way more experience with this sort of thing then me.
List of Items:
1. Battery mount, Currently none exist so this will be the biggest challenge. I measured the space currently being used along with some empty space around the OEM battery and feel a 14 X 11 is about what could fit at the base with a DIY monting tray. Atleast that is what I am stating with. I found some on Jegs which I am planning to DIY together in some shape or form

2. The current measurements look to be able to accommodate 2 Group 24 battery. I am planning to go with ODP-AGM24 (24-725) ODYSSEY Performance Series Battery | ODYSSEY® Battery - https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/odp-agm24-battery-24-725/

3. Need a isolator like this please suggest if anything else is more appropriate. Amazon product ASIN B00400IYTK4. Some wire 1/0 gauge for the battery terminals.

If I am missing something please do comment. The ultimate aim being for future reference for forum members who may want to do a similar install.
 
Not cheap, just came out, but may be an option? As far as I am aware the only turn key kit.

 
Taking inspiration from various threads, I am starting on this project to get a DIY dual battery setup. This is to track my progress and help from existing members who have way more experience with this sort of thing then me.
List of Items:
1. Battery mount, Currently none exist so this will be the biggest challenge. I measured the space currently being used along with some empty space around the OEM battery and feel a 14 X 11 is about what could fit at the base with a DIY monting tray. Atleast that is what I am stating with. I found some on Jegs which I am planning to DIY together in some shape or form

2. The current measurements look to be able to accommodate 2 Group 24 battery. I am planning to go with ODP-AGM24 (24-725) ODYSSEY Performance Series Battery | ODYSSEY® Battery - https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/odp-agm24-battery-24-725/

3. Need a isolator like this please suggest if anything else is more appropriate. Amazon product ASIN B00400IYTK4. Some wire 1/0 gauge for the battery terminals.

If I am missing something please do comment. The ultimate aim being for future reference for forum members who may want to do a similar install.
If you go to my build thread: Builds - R2M 2013 Lexus GX460 Overland Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/r2m-2013-lexus-gx460-overland-build.1104719/
Start at post #3, I have two Odyssey batteries next to each other in the stock location.
YotaMasters made the mount for them.
There should be no problem fitting two batteries in the stock location and using a battery isolator and you should be good to go!
 
Thanks @r2m that is what I am trying to replicate although working it alone. Maybe I will get the trays welded locally once I get everything setup as needed.
 
Not a GX but here is my setup for reference:

EF50EF2A-82B5-4303-9EB7-334754F39A30.jpeg


E75647CB-4FD6-4594-844A-5432D4D06D16.jpeg


9E65D113-89F9-4B1F-B71F-8B9B96EB2FDF.jpeg


262618BE-9FD7-4202-950D-F36EA9C28FE5.jpeg
 
Just be prepared for some fabrication and most importantly fuse for the wire and not the circuit.
 
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I used the shrockworks fj cruiser tray on the passenger side and oge generic tray with the blue sea systems isolator switch on the drivers side. I connected everything up using cables off Amazon. Everything bolts in and no custom fabrication was needed. I put the air pump behind the air box next to that rats nest of heater hoses.

985286D4-4CC0-4741-9ED8-E2626E32AA40.jpeg
 
I used the shrockworks fj cruiser tray on the passenger side and oge generic tray with the blue sea systems isolator switch on the drivers side. I connected everything up using cables off Amazon. Everything bolts in and no custom fabrication was needed. I put the air pump behind the air box next to that rats nest of heater hoses.

What size wires are you using? What style connectors? Almost looks like 8 AWG positive and 4 AWG negative? Pretty clean setup though. What are you running off your secondary battery? Where are your fuses and wire loom?

I used 1/0 AWG throughout for everything connecting to ground and charging system. Miss matching wires can open up a whole bunch of electrical issues. I also recommend to not use chassis for grounding secondary battery. Both batteries and alternator need to have a common ground to charge properly.

I got rid of factory grounding system and replaced it by using a busbar and 1/0 AWG through my system. I also stuffed it through my RVC (regulated voltage controller) and ran one of the cables to my headlight ground.

7ABDF77D-F466-4068-9F58-C0B9D620DE10_1_201_a.jpeg


This tricks the "smart alternator" into charging my batteries more quickly. So whenever I turn on the headlights the alternator puts out more amps for the headlights thus going directly to my batteries and keeping them topped off.

The Lexus GX460 needs a voltage stabilizer regulator that performs the same function as the RVC and can be tweaked to work with a dual battery system. Albeit a little differently. You can't just shove a battery into a spot connect it to the other one and expect it to work. If you want simplicity and plug and play the only reliable option is a Redarc when doing a dual battery. Disadvantage of that system is it charges very slow while driving. My system can top off my dead (12.3 volt) AMG battery in a little less than one hour while driving.

I also have a solar charge controller that is set up for AMG battery and has automatic float/bulk/absorption algorithms that keep my batteries charged and ready when I'm camping or vehicle is parked in the driveway.
A0A6F052-E45F-45AE-A869-DA1A540FB2B2.jpeg


One thing that is very important to remember is the ground is used to detect the path of voltage/amps and the power cable supplies it. This is with any modern vehicle.
 
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I used the shrockworks fj cruiser tray on the passenger side and oge generic tray with the blue sea systems isolator switch on the drivers side. I connected everything up using cables off Amazon. Everything bolts in and no custom fabrication was needed. I put the air pump behind the air box next to that rats nest of heater hoses.

View attachment 3077985
This is a great setup if one doesn't ever want to add a snorkel. I would have gone this route if I didn't put one on my rig.
Ideally I would have like to have had larger RV type batteries, but because of stuffing both in the stock location, those Odyssey's were the largest I could fit.
But in the end it all works great, so I really shouldn't be complaining.
 
This is a great setup if one doesn't ever want to add a snorkel. I would have gone this route if I didn't put one on my rig.
Ideally I would have like to have had larger RV type batteries, but because of stuffing both in the stock location, those Odyssey's were the largest I could fit.
But in the end it all works great, so I really shouldn't be complaining.

The Odyssey battery is the very best for a dual battery application. I could not afford them so I used a set of AMG's I got off Rock auto for a good price. I followed your build and boy that is a hell of a rig that is dialed in nice for your application.
 
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What size wires are you using? What style connectors? Almost looks like 8 AWG positive and 4 AWG negative? Pretty clean setup though. What are you running off your secondary battery? Where are your fuses and wire loom?

I used 1/0 AWG throughout for everything connecting to ground and charging system. Miss matching wires can open up a whole bunch of electrical issues. I also recommend to not use chassis for grounding secondary battery. Both batteries and alternator need to have a common ground to charge properly.

I got rid of factory grounding system and replaced it by using a busbar and 1/0 AWG through my system. I also stuffed it through my RVC (regulated voltage controller) and ran one of the cables to my headlight ground.

View attachment 3078086

This tricks the "smart alternator" into charging my batteries more quickly. So whenever I turn on the headlights the alternator puts out more amps for the headlights thus going directly to my batteries and keeping them topped off.

The Lexus GX460 needs a voltage stabilizer regulator that performs the same function as the RVC and can be tweaked to work with a dual battery system. Albeit a little differently. You can't just shove a battery into a spot connect it to the other one and expect it to work. If you want simplicity and plug and play the only reliable option is a Redarc when doing a dual battery. Disadvantage of that system is it charges very slow while driving. My system can top off my dead (12.3 volt) AMG battery in a little less than one hour while driving.

I also have a solar charge controller that is set up for AMG battery and has automatic float/bulk/absorption algorithms that keep my batteries charged and ready when I'm camping or vehicle is parked in the driveway.View attachment 3078087

One thing that is very important to remember is the ground is used to detect the path of voltage/amps and the power cable supplies it. This is with any modern vehicle.

System wiring is 2 gauge. Each battery has a negative to the chassis and another connecting to each other. Stater battery has its factory ground as well. It’s thoroughly grounded. Positive goes from aux battery to the isolator switch then from the switch to the starter battery. The smaller gauge positive wire your seeing is a 10 gauge wire for the rear blue sea system accessory panel that runs the fridge.

I use this to keep the agms topped off:


E9F91261-738E-4F10-91D2-0BC41C6DC426.jpeg


CAB07102-8EB2-4B1C-8686-AD5513298230.jpeg
 
This is a great setup if one doesn't ever want to add a snorkel. I would have gone this route if I didn't put one on my rig.
Ideally I would have like to have had larger RV type batteries, but because of stuffing both in the stock location, those Odyssey's were the largest I could fit.
But in the end it all works great, so I really shouldn't be complaining.
I have a Dobinsons sitting in the garage that’s going on this fall. No alterations were done to the factory air box location or it’s feed through the inside of the fender. So I’m still good to go there. The pic you’re looking at was in process. The air box was temporarily removed so I had enough room to operate during the install.
 
System wiring is 2 gauge. Each battery has a negative to the chassis and another connecting to each other. Stater battery has its factory ground as well. It’s thoroughly grounded. Positive goes from aux battery to the isolator switch then from the switch to the starter battery. The smaller gauge positive wire your seeing is a 10 gauge wire for the rear blue sea system accessory panel that runs the fridge.

I use this to keep the agms topped off:


Right on and great Job. I to used 10 gauge wire for all my plugs in the back of my truck bed. I ended up using fused wire going through a circuit breaker and then to a busbar that has super HD marine cig plug and Anderson connectors each individual fused from 45 amps for the wire.

B8D7B16B-FFEF-45C4-8532-17B09EE1F50E.jpeg
ECAF5639-FCAD-4FB4-9922-8C0E4077BD45.jpeg
 
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Not cheap, just came out, but may be an option? As far as I am aware the only turn key kit.

I have the Offgrid system in my 460, works fantastic. no issues, no noise.
 
It looks like OffGrid kits parts, if sourced directly cost a couple of hundred less than the kit itself. Is that the convenience fee if i get one of the kits or something I am missing from the description given online?
 
It looks like OffGrid kits parts, if sourced directly cost a couple of hundred less than the kit itself. Is that the convenience fee if i get one of the kits or something I am missing from the description given online?
think you're missed the vehicle specific brackets and mounts, not sure how you could order those directly. I just like how well it's laid out. Kits has you move a few things around in the engine bay to make enough room for the second battery. Give them a call.
 
So quick update. I found this tray for dual group 34 batterys on Amazon, which I am planning to mount in the stock battery location. Lets see how that goes. I will probably have to trim of a few things but wiling to give it a shot.

Amazon product ASIN B003UC0OC4
 
So quick update. I found this tray for dual group 34 batterys on Amazon, which I am planning to mount in the stock battery location. Lets see how that goes. I will probably have to trim of a few things but wiling to give it a shot.

Amazon product ASIN B003UC0OC4
This is awesome thinking-out-of-the-box creativity!!
Couple of things, considering I have a similar setup, dual batteries in the stock location.
  1. Are you sure the dimensions of the new battery tray plate base (x and y dims) will fit in the stock location?
  2. IMPORTANT! Be sure you use fender washers, backing plate(s), etc. and use a lot of mounting points when mounting to the sheet metal fender.
My battery tray tore from the fender it was mounted to (read: bouncing around). The tray itself didn't tear, the car fender did. I had to bolt it down again, this time using more mounting points with large fender washers to distribute surface load on the mounting holes in the (car) fender. Remember until lithium batteries become cheap and common, there is a LOT of weight over the right front fender with two batteries.

If it works, can you please add it to the Guide to GX 460 Builds and Aftermarket Products list along with any caveats you encounter when installing.

Good luck and post pictures!
 
This is awesome thinking-out-of-the-box creativity!!
Couple of things, considering I have a similar setup, dual batteries in the stock location.
  1. Are you sure the dimensions of the new battery tray plate base (x and y dims) will fit in the stock location?
  2. IMPORTANT! Be sure you use fender washers, backing plate(s), etc. and use a lot of mounting points when mounting to the sheet metal fender.
My battery tray tore from the fender it was mounted to (read: bouncing around). The tray itself didn't tear, the car fender did. I had to bolt it down again, this time using more mounting points with large fender washers to distribute surface load on the mounting holes in the (car) fender. Remember until lithium batteries become cheap and common, there is a LOT of weight over the right front fender with two batteries.

If it works, can you please add it to the Guide to GX 460 Builds and Aftermarket Products list along with any caveats you encounter when installing.

Good luck and post pictures!
Thanks for the heads-up. I will keep updating. It looks like I may just get some fender re-enforcement and get some custom work from my local fabricator. I think this will fit. I will update next weekend when I will have this in-hand and take out the OEM for a basic fit test.
I also am planning to buy a DC - DC charger and Ironman has a sale on theirs. I dont plan to install solar but if it works without, I am game.

 
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I just purchased this: BEATIT G18 2000Amp Peak 12V Portable Jump Starter (Up to 8.0L Gas and Diesel Engine) 21000mAh Power Bank With Wireless Charger Smart Jumper Cables - https://partlimit.com/products/beatit-g18-2000amp-peak-12v-portable-jump-starter-up-to-8-0l-gas-and-diesel-engine-21000mah-power-bank-with-wireless-charger-smart-jumper-cables
Albeit, I did not purchase it from the link above, I got it on Amazon, but it's no longer available from them.
This has been awesome for my vehicle and others in need. Super easy to use and stow. Once you start your car, if the charger needs to recharge, just plug it into the USB in your rig and it'll charge while driving. Also has wireless phone charger in it. I keep this handy just in case anything happens to either of my batteries.
Not sure I'll ever use jumper cables again.
 
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