Dual battery setup (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Threads
155
Messages
635
Location
Iowa City IA area
So I have read through the members dual battery setups and almost every link in it in the FAQ. I have the blue sea add a battery and am looking for a better switch then the kit comes with to combine the batteries for starting should the start battery die. I'd like something smaller that I could put in the cab. The switch that it comes with is hugh and bulky. Any ideas?
 
You may be better off going here for setup answers:
Many options and depends on how it's wired and if you want a smart/ dumb system. I chose to go the Redark route but I know a lot of people also like Victron energy and use separate components going the next level smart controllers with the ability to switch manually or auto.
 
So I have read through the members dual battery setups and almost every link in it in the FAQ. I have the blue sea add a battery and am looking for a better switch then the kit comes with to combine the batteries for starting should the start battery die. I'd like something smaller that I could put in the cab. The switch that it comes with is hugh and bulky. Any ideas?
are you referring to the big red twisty switch? or the toggle switch that goes inside the cab to control an ACR?
 
Not sure if these are used for dual battery setup but I was planning on using it for the winch disconnect. May also be an option.
1651595774451.png
 
This is what I run in mine:

1651605775247.png
 
I bought my wires from @LC4LIFE. But you can buy it on Amazon or wherever you buy stuff online it’s called PET wire loom. It’s work best with heat shrink over the ends for a clean termination. Also when you cut it if you wrap masking tape or electrical tape where you cut it it will not Frey out than remove after you feed your cable through and heat shrink over it or burn the ends.

AF7962B9-4FD3-4D2C-B593-F036CD8B94C9.png
 
I bought my wires from @LC4LIFE. But you can buy it on Amazon or wherever you buy stuff online it’s called PET wire loom. It’s work best with heat shrink over the ends for a clean termination. Also when you cut it if you wrap masking tape or electrical tape where you cut it it will not Frey out than remove after you feed your cable through and heat shrink over it or burn the ends.
You have this wire backwards.

1651613505536.png
 
I am also going to add this here just to help people researching dual batteries, kits, etc. Sorry @Fj80oregon I am not trying to pick apart your install, but I have had numerous conversations with people about what type of auxiliary battery to buy, and I can use your picture as an example. I always recommend that people spec in a battery from a 91-92 as the terminals are mirrored from the DS of the later models. This keeps the positive terminal more inboard and further from the underside of the hood. It also makes the cabling a bit cleaner and will mimic more like what Toyota intended. If you were to use the same size battery that comes with the rig, the drivers side would fit a Group 24F and the passenger side tray would get a Group 24. Same batteries, just different post orientation.

In the example below, this is the same post orientation as the drivers side. Ideally, it would be opposite of what is shown here.

1651613802148.png
 
So I have read through the members dual battery setups and almost every link in it in the FAQ. I have the blue sea add a battery and am looking for a better switch then the kit comes with to combine the batteries for starting should the start battery die. I'd like something smaller that I could put in the cab. The switch that it comes with is hugh and bulky. Any ideas?

I use a 500amp (700amp surge) solenoid to link the two batteries and run a basic switch on the dash w/adjustable timer relay for charging/linking

It's as cheap and basic as can be while still being hidden with a remote switch on the dash and solid enough for either of the winches to draw through in case of a primary battery failure.

20220503_173014.jpg
 
This is what I run in mine:

View attachment 2999301

This is what I have in mine, the first one failed after around 6 or 7 years but replacement under the lifetime warranty was no problem. I leave the switch in 'AUTO' for most of it's life, I also have solar panels on the roof rack, or when the car is in the garage I have a panel on the roof that plugs into the back bumper. By leaving the switch in the auto position it makes sure the starter battery is always charged regardless of whether the engine is running or the car is parked in the garage or out camping. If I had to add something it is that I do not use the combination battery voltage level and VSR's, that are available, if one part of the unit goes wrong it can actually cause the units to give false information, so the Blue Seas VSR and the National Luna twin battery monitor, independent units are the way to go.

The info with pictures is in here somewhere. Builds - My LC 80 thread. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-lc-80-thread.365673/

Regards

Dave
 
In terms of a switch, here's a good option:
1651643769079.png

Comes in either vertical or horizontal orientation. I use it in my rig, with a RedArc battery isolator, which is really just a solenoid like @98 SNAKE EATER posted, but with a small microcontroller on the top to handle the connection/disconnection based on the switch and charge level. Also allows you to illuminate this switch to indicate in the cabin when the batteries are connected or not. I run this in my 80, and I'm very happy with it. I'll post a pic later.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom