Dual batteries help

[1973Guppie]

I run the ground to the frame and have a welded tab on the frame for the grounds.

As far as losing the memory on the computer, my vortec does not lose the memory when I disconnect the battery. I would think that the tbi computer would have flash type memory in it so any programming is set and rebooted when power is reapplied? OR does it erase everything every time you disconnect the battery?

Noah

 

[cruiserbrett]

yes, you will loose the memory in the ECM. make a small diode Y (one leg to each battery and one to ECM memory)and that way even if either battery is dead you will be fine.

As for the cable, holy s***, 2/0 is overkill.

Welding cable is great, cause its cheap. Be sure its not anywhere where oil can soak that rubber sheathing, cause thats why its not commonly used. Its rubber coating it not really oil resistant and will break down after some exposure. you can tell when its donefor b/c it softens up alot... BTDT.

Dont bother with a 300A breaker. Get a maxi-fuse holder setup from Blue-Sea and other distributors, and pick an aproproiate sized fuse. I am pretty sure I ahve seen them past 300A. Carry a spare. Fuses are more reliable than breakers. Although they are one shot deals....

 

[brider]

Sharp38:

I'm with Coolerman, I like your description, but can you provide some sort of diagram to clue us in?

Checked out your website link-very cool stuff.

TB

 

[Trollhole]

yes, you will loose the memory in the ECM. make a small diode Y (one leg to each battery and one to ECM memory)and that way even if either battery is dead you will be fine.

As for the cable, holy s***, 2/0 is overkill.

Welding cable is great, cause its cheap. Be sure its not anywhere where oil can soak that rubber sheathing, cause thats why its not commonly used. Its rubber coating it not really oil resistant and will break down after some exposure. you can tell when its donefor b/c it softens up alot... BTDT.

Dont bother with a 300A breaker. Get a maxi-fuse holder setup from Blue-Sea and other distributors, and pick an aproproiate sized fuse. I am pretty sure I ahve seen them past 300A. Carry a spare. Fuses are more reliable than breakers. Although they are one shot deals....

Thanks. Just what I was looking for.

As far as cable size. I searched the internet and couldn't find a good source where anyone explained sizes and power capabilities so I figured I'd go with "Holy s***" wires and take any questions out of the equation.

I also went with a 600 amp switch. I figured if I was running the winch through it I'd better have a big one. HD-Series (Heavy Duty) Battery Switch - Blue Sea Systems

Now I need to find a 6-12 circuit fuse block for all the accessories

 

[Coolerman]

Look no further, than where you already have been, grasshopper...

ST Blade Fuse Blocks - Blue Sea Systems

 

[BELMONT148]

The specifications on that switch say to use 4/0 cables. Just thought I would point that out.

What isolator are you using? Is it the one you already had before?

This is what I am going to use to finally install a second battery in my other battery bank.

Detailed Specifications for Add a Battery - Blue Sea Systems

I will also install one of those 12 circuit panels at the same time. Let's see:

New Optima red top_____$125.00
Add-a-battery _______$150.00
12 Circuit Panel _______$55.00
Wire/Connectors_______$100.00
Total _______________$430.00

Knowing that I won't
have a dead battery
and let my 14 mo. old
son get a heat stroke.______Priceless!

Jeremy

 

[cruiserbrett]

4/0 cable is like a broom stick...

here is a site with ampacities for wiring. As stated on the webpage, they are very, very conservative, and given the significantly higher number strands(although smaller) in welding cable makes it even more conservative than standard automotive cabling.

wire ampacity

take your 175 amp mig welder for example. Its maybe 4 ga wire, and good for 175 amps or so, and thats in environments where the wire is often times laying on a hot surface and transfering heat of the welded part to the cable from the ground clamp and gun, and they still spec it out well under the listed ampacity on the website above.

 

[BELMONT148]

I meant to put "up to 4/0 cable". I was just pointing out that it is one hell of a heavy duty switch. Forget about the wire being overkill, I think the switch is overkill. How much that thing costing you?

I guess if this is a cut-off switch between the winch and battery you would need it since some winches have a maximum load of about 450 amps.

What would be the benefit of having a cut-off switch to the winch?

Jeremy

 

[Trollhole]

I meant to put "up to 4/0 cable". I was just pointing out that it is one hell of a heavy duty switch. Forget about the wire being overkill, I think the switch is overkill. How much that thing costing you?

I guess if this is a cut-off switch between the winch and battery you would need it since some winches have a maximum load of about 450 amps.

What would be the benefit of having a cut-off switch to the winch?

Jeremy

Most everything I have read for all the dual battery setups stated not to run a winch through their systems and run it directly to the battery. I wanted the ability to swap batteries or use both if needed.

Switch was 20 dollars more. Rated for 4/0 but I'm pretty sure the 2/0 cable I'm getting will be plenty.

The isolator I have is only rated for 120 amps which is far short of the 180 amp alt I have. I'm planning on hooking the alt up like the diagram above.

Instead of having two starters like the diagram you can insert a winch for one.

I got my distribution blocks in the other day. 2 2/0, and three 4 gauge

1 2/0 power in
1 2/0 power out to the winch
1 4 gauge for starter
1 4 gauge split out to the main harness and the other to the aux fues panel.

Alos picked up a SB 350 connector and lugs for the main 2/0 wires. That way I can yank it if nessessary. Hmmm the switch would work just as well for this. Might use it for the winch.

 

[Trollhole]

The specifications on that switch say to use 4/0 cables. Just thought I would point that out.

What isolator are you using? Is it the one you already had before?

This is what I am going to use to finally install a second battery in my other battery bank.

Detailed Specifications for Add a Battery - Blue Sea Systems

I will also install one of those 12 circuit panels at the same time. Let's see:

New Optima red top_____$125.00
Add-a-battery _______$150.00
12 Circuit Panel _______$55.00
Wire/Connectors_______$100.00
Total _______________$430.00

Knowing that I won't
have a dead battery
and let my 14 mo. old
son get a heat stroke.______Priceless!

Jeremy

2/0 cable runs about 4.30 a ft.

 

[Trollhole]

Just got off the phone with the metal shop. Getting them to bend up a 1.5 deep pan that is 10"x14" that I should be able to sink under my seat without a lot of modification.

Cost me $25.

 

[BELMONT148]

2/0 cable runs about 4.30 a ft.

Thanks, i'll only need about 6'.

Jeremy

 

[Trollhole]

Finally got all my stuff. Now for the wiring.

 

[Coolerman]

Cool! I'll follow this on closely. Looks like a good setup... What color is the battery box going to be?

 

[Trollhole]

Cool! I'll follow this on closely. Looks like a good setup... What color is the battery box going to be?

Clear


Need some more help.

Bought a Blue Sea fuse block to run all the new stuff and some old stuff. Didn't really put a whole lot of thought in it. Most of my stuff I plan on connecting to it would be switched power. Since this only has one input to all 12 circuits I'm only going to be able to wire it one way or the other. I thought about just buying a smaller 6 terminal block and making it non switched.

Question. I don't want the ignition switch to take the full brunt of the switching to the 12 circuit panel. What good relay is there that would work for 100amps and under? I was thinking about one that is latching.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Part No is in the Pic 100amp Solid state, hit search for your local stockiest or if you can wait a few days PM me I have one in the shed new and unused.

 

[Bret]

Do the solid state DC relays "leak" like the AC ones do? They use those on sterilizers and film processors, but unlike a mechanical relay when they are de-energized they can still leak enough voltage to shock you. With 12V the shock wouldn't be as big of a concern as the potential to run down a battery if left unattended for long periods of time.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Do the solid state DC relays "leak" like the AC ones do? They use those on sterilizers and film processors, but unlike a mechanical relay when they are de-energized they can still leak enough voltage to shock you. With 12V the shock wouldn't be as big of a concern as the potential to run down a battery if left unattended for long periods of time.

No they don't, I pick the A/C variant up by mistake once they also won't turn off once energised if used in a D/C application :whoops:

 

[Trollhole]

Pan is 1/8 steel so I shouldnt have an issue need to weld then paint

Fits perfect. You could of made the pan half an inch deeper and it still would have worked,

 

[Coolerman]

If you want a good mechanical continious duty solenoid good for this app then look at this

http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L0F57B4086712E2002B63082+M37+ENG

85 amp continous, 85 amp make AND break. 4 terminal insulated and water proof.

Doubt you would ever be pulling all 100 amps through your fuse box so this would work. $27.75 from Waytek Part # 77003

Here ia a 12V 100 amp continous duty from Grainger made by White Rogers... $25.45

Electrical > Solenoids > DC Power Solenoids > DC Power Solenoid,12V,Amps 100 : Grainger Industrial Supply

With that long of a run make SURE to fuse or circuit breaker this wire!