Driveshaft clearance: Anyone know what the f*** is happening here?

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Beehanger

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This doesn't look good. Got my rig shipped back to me, new to cruisers but man I don't think the driveshaft should be touching the motherf***ing frame right?!??

Had it tow strapped a couple miles is all, installing rebuilt engine rn etc.


s***.webp
 
that looks to be the front drive shaft contacting the front crossmember correct?
Mine did this from the lift i put on (70 series tho, but applicable) , yours looks to have been rubbing for some time, i would get that shaft fixed
then clearance the crossmember, i cut and re welded mine for some room when its flexed out
 
what lift is on it?
 
1 piece crossmember?
is the engine installed?
 
If the engine is not fitted then the drive shaft is just going to flop about.. Not sure if there's anything else going on other than this??
 
Engine is not installed. dirveshaft is hitting cross member. How do guys retrofit this normally?

without the engine installed the transmision and transfer case will tilt rearward, front of the trans will tilt upward, all on the trans mount attached to the crossmember
with this tilting action the clearance between the driveshaft and crossmember will be bad and interferance will occur, by the pics
if the transfer was in 2H and the hubs unlocked the front driveshaft would not have spun, causing the wear shown in the pic
you will need the driveshaft, re-tubed or replaced
 
Do rectify this issue, could I add spacers underneath the transfer case, or will I have to cut and reeled as mentioned?

Trying to get the engine mounted ASAP> The clearance was definitely close before the engine was pulled, according to old pictures (see photos attached). Let me know if you guys think I can run with it as is, my main goal is just to get the rig running even if the clearance is close. I will get the driveshaft retubed regardless ofc.

Dan

IMG_4438.jpg


IMG_3787.JPG
 
I would address those shackle pin extensions. The leaf springs are suppose to mount in the hanger. The way it’s set up now looks sketchy at best and may be dangerous. Find out what springs are installed. If you can… if they’re factory length then I would make an effort to replace the shackles and pins and get that spring mounted to the hanger itself. That will correct the issue and make steering safer. If for some reason the PO installed some longer springs in the front they had to do some weird modifications to get things to fit. Once you get that engine done look into replacing the suspension…cuz that’s suspect.
 
This is how they’re suppose to mount.

7463C716-F1BA-4DC1-8D38-CE6BA4B60EFD.webp
 
I would address those shackle pin extensions. The leaf springs are suppose to mount in the hanger. The way it’s set up now looks sketchy at best and may be dangerous. Find out what springs are installed. If you can… if they’re factory length then I would make an effort to replace the shackles and pins and get that spring mounted to the hanger itself. That will correct the issue and make steering safer. If for some reason the PO installed some longer springs in the front they had to do some weird modifications to get things to fit. Once you get that engine done look into replacing the suspension…cuz that’s suspect.
looks like Ill have to postpone my ROADTRIP even longer lol....

I'm thinking I may have to take a step back in the project to learn how to wrench. There's so many factors and issues and I can't expect someone to help me for free on all of it. i'm not learning s*** at work even though its been very fun. I'm currently trying to find a mentor or something that's currently on a project of their own... This s*** is just so far out of my capabilities as of now I'm going to have to work up to it and transferring knowledge learned elsewhere. I'll Take a week or two off work if anyone knows someone balls deep in a project who likes teaching, ill help for free.
 
looks like Ill have to postpone my ROADTRIP even longer lol....

I'm thinking I may have to take a step back in the project to learn how to wrench. There's so many factors and issues and I can't expect someone to help me for free on all of it. i'm not learning s*** at work even though its been very fun. I'm currently trying to find a mentor or something that's currently on a project of their own... This s*** is just so far out of my capabilities as of now I'm going to have to work up to it and transferring knowledge learned elsewhere. I'll Take a week or two off work if anyone knows someone balls deep in a project who likes teaching, ill help for free.
I wish you were local. I’d do it for free. I just love sharing and teaching. So rewarding to see someone overcome themselves. I like seeing someone become a better version of themselves. Hell, I’m teaching myself to rebuild my engine. I’ve learned basically everything I know from this forum. YouTube is also a wealth of knowledge.

Sometimes the best thing to do is step back from the wrench and read. If you’re getting frustrated it’s probably because you’re missing a piece of information. I used to get really mad when I couldn’t figure something out. I haven’t once flipped my shyt on my engine rebuild. Take it all in stride. You bought this thing so you could learn. So learn!
 
I would address those shackle pin extensions. The leaf springs are suppose to mount in the hanger. The way it’s set up now looks sketchy at best and may be dangerous. Find out what springs are installed. If you can… if they’re factory length then I would make an effort to replace the shackles and pins and get that spring mounted to the hanger itself. That will correct the issue and make steering safer. If for some reason the PO installed some longer springs in the front they had to do some weird modifications to get things to fit. Once you get that engine done look into replacing the suspension…cuz that’s suspect.

He has a MAF/+4-plus Shackle reversal kit, not some random extra shackle.
 
Do rectify this issue, could I add spacers underneath the transfer case, or will I have to cut and reeled as mentioned?

Trying to get the engine mounted ASAP> The clearance was definitely close before the engine was pulled, according to old pictures (see photos attached). Let me know if you guys think I can run with it as is, my main goal is just to get the rig running even if the clearance is close. I will get the driveshaft retubed regardless ofc.

Dan

View attachment 3269684

View attachment 3269685

you can just remove the front driveshaft for now and run it.
 
I wish you were local. I’d do it for free. I just love sharing and teaching. So rewarding to see someone overcome themselves. I like seeing someone become a better version of themselves. Hell, I’m teaching myself to rebuild my engine. I’ve learned basically everything I know from this forum. YouTube is also a wealth of knowledge.

Sometimes the best thing to do is step back from the wrench and read. If you’re getting frustrated it’s probably because you’re missing a piece of information. I used to get really mad when I couldn’t figure something out. I haven’t once flipped my shyt on my engine rebuild. Take it all in stride. You bought this thing so you could learn. So learn!
I’m with you man! I’m going to have to watch some YouTube… didn’t know there was that much Land Cruiser stuff on there
 
I’m with you man! I’m going to have to watch some YouTube… didn’t know there was that much Land Cruiser stuff on there
There’s a lot more popping up now that these trucks are so popular. There are tons of good videos and also a lot of really bad advice on YouTube so mind that.
 
There’s a lot more popping up now that these trucks are so popular. There are tons of good videos and also a lot of really bad advice on YouTube so mind that.
I'll try to follow your Rule set:
Rule #1 Don't F*** up
Rule #2 See rule #1
Rule #3 Throw it away because you didn't pay attention to rules #1 and #2
 
Was about to take off driveshaft, but seems like its somehow counter balalncing tranny weight since engine is off. Going to transport it back to our holidng lot as is. Its about a 3-4 mile drive. Will have the hubs UNLOCKED,.

PS it seems like that grinding wasn't from me. I think the gash is old and from the previous owner installing lift and not checking the crossmember clearance for some time. Might keep the gouge as is and just drive it.

If my thinking is off here please be kind and correct me,

Dan
 

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