Drive shaft bolts (1 Viewer)

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Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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What’s the size and thread pitch on the rear drive shaft bolts.
There not listed in my bolt gauge or the one at my local hardware store.
Thanks.
 
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🧐 That’s what I thought
neither the nut or the bolt fit on my gauge on that size.
They are special nuts and bolts only available from Toyota afaik.
I have be able to find other hard to find OEM Toyota exact match nuts & bolts right down to wrench size from Bellmetric.Com in the past as long as Know what size I’m look for.
There a great resource for OEM quality hardware.
 
They're about $2 each from the dealer. Can't see the logic in looking elsewhere.
Bolt: 90105-11013
Nut: 90179-11005
Washer: 90201-11013

A full set of 4 will set you back $22.
 
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Here you go

20250607_224457.jpg
 
Toyota’s fine thread fetish can be pretty annoying.
Annoying but good engineering. Fine threads allow for higher clamping pressures due to the increased surface area of the threads. A bolted shear joint, like the prop shafts, rely on clamping pressure and the shear created by the friction between the two mating parts. The greater the friction, the stronger the joint. In most applications, the bolt body has very little effect on the connection, it is the friction force between the two mating materials that creates the joint. That is one reason, for a critical joint such as this, that parts may not be painted and should be thoroughly cleaned of foreign material before assembly. Another way to create addition force is by using washers. The farther the bolt head and nut are apart, the greater the cone of influence is.

I pretty good video on this subject is located in the link below. There is more to it but will give a basic understanding of what Mr. T was thinking when designing their systems.

 
The Toyota hardware for the rear drive shaft comes as a kit (Part No. 90105-11H00): one bolt, one washer, one nut. PartSouq currently sells each kit for $1.69, but that part number doesn't show up if you search with your VIN.

Bad call.

90105-11H00 Comes as a kit: one bolt, one washer, one nut. About 50% cheaper than getting the part numbers separately. You need 8 of these.

:meh:
1749304978743.png
 
The Toyota hardware for the rear drive shaft comes as a kit (Part No. 90105-11H00): one bolt, one washer, one nut. PartSouq currently sells each kit for $1.69, but that part number doesn't show up if you search with your VIN.


View attachment 3923529

Do what you want, dude.

Or trust me since I’ve been doing this for 20 years.
 
They're about $2 each from the dealer. Can't see the logic in looking elsewhere.
Bolt: 90105-11013
Nut: 90179-11005
Washer: 90201-11013

A full set of 4 will set you back $22.
I fully agree and have a new set.
Issue is the heavy duty .120 wall DOM Tube drive shaft I just got has 13-50 u-joints and the flanges are thicker so the OEM hardware is to short.
I would still like to run the same size, thread & quality as OEM just a longer.

I don’t want to run hardware from the local True Value or Home Depot !
 
Do what you want, dude.

Or trust me since I’ve been doing this for 20 years.
Do you know was size and thread they are Beno. I need longer ones

Thanks
 
I fully agree and have a new set.
Issue is the heavy duty .120 wall DOM Tube drive shaft I just got has 13-50 u-joints and the flanges are thicker so the OEM hardware is to short.
I would still like to run the same size, thread & quality as OEM just a longer.

I don’t want to run hardware from the local True Value or Home Depot !
Let me know if you find a source for quality longer DS bolts. I am considering upgrading my rear DS to Tom Woods and will also probably need longer bolts. I would like to have some spares of the longer bolts for both front and rear DS (which are different).

I have wondered whether Toyota has some appropriate length/ size and pitch longer DS bolts for other trucks that would work, but don’t really know how to figure that out.
 
Let me know if you find a source for quality longer DS bolts. I am considering upgrading my rear DS to Tom Woods and will also probably need longer bolts. I would like to have some spares of the longer bolts for both front and rear DS (which are different).

I have wondered whether Toyota has some appropriate length/ size and pitch longer DS bolts for other trucks that would work, but don’t really know how to figure that out.
actually, unless you’re doing extreme duty Wheeling, I would just go with the Land tank heavy duty driveshaft it utilizes Toyota U joints and flanges. It cost a bit more and it’s not as heavy duty, but keeps it all Toyota.
I’m sure it would work well for most.
 
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Thanks for all the replies 😎

To be clear I’m very adept to sourcing OEM parts !

If anyone knows what the actual bolt size and thread pitch is please let me know me know.
They are special nuts and bolts only available from Toyota afaik.
It looks like this is correct
I’m not finding anything m11-.125 I’m thinking thats what size it is.

Does everyone see a issue with not running the washers
I get full thread engagement without them.
 
Let me know if you find a source for quality longer DS bolts. I am considering upgrading my rear DS to Tom Woods and will also probably need longer bolts. I would like to have some spares of the longer bolts for both front and rear DS (which are different).

I have wondered whether Toyota has some appropriate length/ size and pitch longer DS bolts for other trucks that would work, but don’t really know how to figure that out.
Tom Woods supplies longer bolts with their shafts. They also can be ordered separately.
 
Thanks for all the replies 😎

To be clear I’m very adept to sourcing OEM parts !

If anyone knows what the actual bolt size and thread pitch is please let me know me know.

It looks like this is correct
I’m not finding anything m11-.125 I’m thinking thats what size it is.

Does everyone see a issue with not running the washers
I get full thread engagement without them.
The washer will provide a little more clamping force and prevent or limit the damage of the nuts digging into the surface. By digging into the surface, the clamping pressure is uneven and will reduce the force the nut is imparting to the clamped part. How much and is it critical? I think the harder you wheel, the more critical it would become. For a DD, I would not sweat it. The way you work your rig, I think you would want to best joint possible.

Another wives tale about bolts, you do not need to have 3 threads protruding beyond the nut. There is little value in that. In a bolt, the first thread on the nut carries the most load with each subsequent thread carrying slightly less. Once the threads protrude from the top of the nut there is not much more the bolt itself can do. There still is that cone of influence that may reduce the possible deformation of the last thread however, there is not the same force being imparted on the last thread as the first.

Another item, when searching for high quality bolts, you are looking for bolts where the threads are pressed or formed into the shaft, not cut. It is much more precise. Years ago I designed the electrical system for a facility that manufactured fasteners for critical duty applications for the military, oil rigs, and railroads. Actually fascinating. They also invented a bolt that incorporated a dial indicator so you could visually very the torque on the bolts at a glance.

Forged Fastener & Bolt Manufacturer | Valley Forge & Bolt - https://www.vfbolts.com/

facility video:


Videos: Instructional Product Videos for VF Bolts - https://www.vfbolts.com/videos/
 
Tom Woods supplies longer bolts with their shafts. They also can be ordered separately.
Yes they do, there also smaller m10s
I ordered a heavy duty driveshaft it seems counterproductive to use smaller hardware !!

All of this leads back to the @landtank shaft
If I’d known then what I know now I would have just pony up the extra cash for Rick’s drive shaft.
 
The washer will provide a little more clamping force and prevent or limit the damage of the nuts digging into the surface. By digging into the surface, the clamping pressure is uneven and will reduce the force the nut is imparting to the clamped part. How much and is it critical? I think the harder you wheel, the more critical it would become. For a DD, I would not sweat it. The way you work your rig, I think you would want to best joint possible.

Another wives tale about bolts, you do not need to have 3 threads protruding beyond the nut. There is little value in that. In a bolt, the first thread on the nut carries the most load with each subsequent thread carrying slightly less. Once the threads protrude from the top of the nut there is not much more the bolt itself can do. There still is that cone of influence that may reduce the possible deformation of the last thread however, there is not the same force being imparted on the last thread as the first.

Another item, when searching for high quality bolts, you are looking for bolts where the threads are pressed or formed into the shaft, not cut. It is much more precise. Years ago I designed the electrical system for a facility that manufactured fasteners for critical duty applications for the military, oil rigs, and railroads. Actually fascinating. They also invented a bolt that incorporated a dial indicator so you could visually very the torque on the bolts at a glance.

Forged Fastener & Bolt Manufacturer | Valley Forge & Bolt - https://www.vfbolts.com/

facility video:


Videos: Instructional Product Videos for VF Bolts - https://www.vfbolts.com/videos/

Then nuts in question have a shoulder built into them, the same size as the washer.
I would think that would apply the same equal
Pressure that the washer would ?
 

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