Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (6 Viewers)

[norsk]

Doug - make sure you assemble the spring back in the hub the right way. I did it wrong the first time, no 4wd!

I found 3 springs in there: 1 big one, one still embedded in the base plate and the one that goes with the ball bearing. I left the embedded one alone, I noted the direction of the big one, and the ball bearing one is also noted. Which one are you referring to?

I would like to replace the O rings. Need to look them up

Hub locker sure painted up nicely too.

and thanks.

Comment: Cleaning, wirebrushing and painting takes most of the time on this project, but I feel good about doing this.
The "grease" in knuckle was very runny - looks like the guy just used wheel bearing grease. I got the same CV grease that Jonesys recommended.

I also decided to go ahead and replace all the bearings as well at this time, and save the old wheel bearings for the trail.

doug

 

[cruisermatt]

Make sure when you go to put the axle back in that you LOAD it with moly-grease, it should be crazy stuffed in there.

 

[JohninFla]

Doug - I meant the big spring. I will find a link when I am on a computer not my phone.

 

[norsk]

Make sure when you go to put the axle back in that you LOAD it with moly-grease, it should be crazy stuffed in there.

will do. Using the following

From O'Reillys webpage

Sta-Lube - Constant Velocity (CV) Joint Grease
Part Number: 3174
Line: STL

• manufacturer's defect warranty
• UPC: 72213317404
• 4 Oz.
• Volume (Oz): 4 Ounce

Detailed Description
A special lithium base grease fortified with molybdenum disulphide and polymers. It is used for the installation and repair work on CV joints. Will extend the life of the CV joint & the additives will sustain the shock loads encountered in the CV joints

Applications:
CV boot, CV joints found in front wheel drive passenger vehicles, safe for both domestic and foreign CV joints

 

[JohninFla]

Doug here is the video I followed to get mine right.

John

 

[boots4]

Your bearing grease was most likely runny because your axle seals aren't sealing anymore and are allowing gear oil from the diff to migrate in. I used a set of marlin's axle seals and never had a problem with that again while I was running the Fj60 axle.

 

[norsk]

Doug here is the video I followed to get mine right.

John

thanks john, great video and wonderful information

Your bearing grease was most likely runny because your axle seals aren't sealing anymore and are allowing gear oil from the diff to migrate in. I used a set of marlin's axle seals and never had a problem with that again while I was running the Fj60 axle.

thanks,

brian at Cruiser Outfitters recommended and I did buy exactly that. I do ponder why their kit does not come standard with the better seals. Still interesting that I had the axle done abt 3 years ago and things didn't last. Just was one of the guys at my normal mechanic shop, where I have been going for 22 years. At the time I was still ignorant on most things TLC, and this shows that a good mechanic can also be ignorant of things about a specific vehicle.

Now I bought the kit and he installed back then, but is a prime example of the tuition of which I have spoken of. Tuition being those things one spends resources on, but it does not last. Learning from that becomes investment if behaviors have changed (ie buy better stuff). So this time I bought the same kit PLUS the Marlin seals.

This site is so awesome and full of valuable content on these rigs, provided by people like you. Thanks again.

AND my Ranger Torque Splitter has been ordered. Shipping Aug 7 from AA is the estimate. FINALLY we are proceeding

dougbert

 

[Elbert]

nothing beats the marlin seals.... makes OEM look trashy

 

[norsk]

Upon taking the knuckle apart I broke the C clip on the axle, so I am waiting for SOR to get me some more

But I got the hub on and the backing felt and gaskets on

I spent an hour finally taking out the rest of the headliner and the insulation on the roof

used the high speed wire brush to remove the stuff and got it ALL OVER. Needed to use a mask filter

Will try heat to remove more of the glue

dougbert

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW about 10k miles ago I painted the swivel ball's sealing surfaces on my Mini's front axle housing with two coats of POR-15 and let it cure. Then I used progressively finer emery strap to sand it all smooth. When I got to the point where I was polishing the paint I stopped. This filled in the rust pits and gave the seals something consistently smooth to seal against.

Not a fan of Sta-Lube products. I've been using Redline CV-2 CV Joint grease in my Birf's since the first re-pack in '00 or so. One of my local CarQuests stocks it at the same price as Summit.

 

[norsk]

well, got everything ready to mount the tranny to the Ranger and all looked great until, until the final 1/8 inch - it would not close. Now the instructions (they suck BTW, when they get to the actual connecting, steps 16, 17, 18 - instructions prior and after deal with how take the tranny out and how to put it back in. Really bad on the key parts of mounting together) say do not use the bolts to "suck" the units together - either tranny to Ranger and Ranger to bell housing.

look at the pics

Here in the 3rd pic, one can see the gap. We tilted the whole thing vertical and rotated, rotated, used a dead drop hammer, but nothing worked to get the two units to come together. Stumped.

I measured the depth of the receiving hole of the Ranger to be 8 inches from inner most point to the Ranger deck, while the tranny input shaft is 7 inches long to the tranny deck.

AA is closed today so will have to call them on Monday. Has anyone encountered this before and how they fixed it?

So: HELP, thanks

dougbert

 

[dbleon]

Yes. I did. Snap ring groove incorrectly machined on the big output bearing...did not allow snap ring diameter to size into adapter. Mine was on a different AA adapter but seems same issue. Call them. They are super helpful.sent me a different bearing worked fine.

 

[norsk]

Yes. I did. Snap ring groove incorrectly machined on the big output bearing...did not allow snap ring diameter to size into adapter. Mine was on a different AA adapter but seems same issue. Call them. They are super helpful.sent me a different bearing worked fine.

good to hear, will do and thanks. Which bearing? On the ranger or for the tranny?
re-read, so the output of the Ranger bearing.

dougbert

 

[JohninFla]

Doug - happened to me too. Mine was the diameter of the transmission input bearing not matched to the AA Ranger rear plate. Put calipers on them. Geno at AA found the right plate, I had to buy it then return the wrong one for a credit. Cost me a few days and some shipping.

 

[dbleon]

good to hear, will do and thanks. Which bearing? On the ranger or for the tranny?
re-read, so the output of the Ranger bearing.

dougbert

Mine was between adapter and t case. Check with calipers as suggested. Likely the culprit.

Seems a QC issue that AA should address.

I also agree their instructions suck balls.

Good thing their customer service was good....

 

[norsk]

Doug - happened to me too. Mine was the diameter of the transmission input bearing not matched to the AA Ranger rear plate. Put calipers on them. Geno at AA found the right plate, I had to buy it then return the wrong one for a credit. Cost me a few days and some shipping.

Okay, I remember you talking about getting the "right" size BUT my assumption was the FRONT of the Ranger where it fit into the Bell Housing.
From what I see now (and the two of you point out) it is the FRONT of the tranny and the wrong size REAR "rear plate" of the Ranger that are mis-matched.

here the front of the tranny

I pondered if it is the upper or lower or both, so after taking measurements it is both of them are off size

Ranger REAR PLATE

Upper:
3.855 in for outer female offset
3.537 in for inner female offset of bearing (see Elbert's post below on the normal 3.544 offset)

Lower:
3.288 in for outer female offset
3.006 in for inner female offset

Tranny FRONT face

Upper:
3.862 in for the snap ring
3.615 in for the bearing (AA mentions this for 1987s, but my rig is June 1986 which also uses a 3.625 in bearing, and needs the bigger rear plate)

Lower:
3.194 in for the snap ring
2.954 in for the bearing

THAT is some set of differences - up to 7 thousandths

O righty now, will send this to AA support for info for them and will call tomorrow.

John, just how hard was it to R&R the REAR PLATE?

Thanks guys for the 2nd witnesses

dougbert

 

[Elbert]

I believe I've read on maybe the aa site and others.....there are two different sizes in regard to the rear of the ranger case and the front of the yota transmission.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...-4-speed-ranger-torque-splitter-overdrive-27/

 

[norsk]

So while I could not work on the ranger, I went home and put up the hoist and took the engine off the big engine stand, and installed the smaller, lower stand. Now will add the flywheel and clutch. I think this will work (with some muscle) to roll it out to the driveway.

 

[norsk]

I believe I've read on maybe the aa site and others.....there are two different sizes in regard to the rear of the ranger case and the front of the yota transmission.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...-4-speed-ranger-torque-splitter-overdrive-27/

Yeah I read that, but my TLC is June 1986 - not a 1987, so I made the assumption it applied to 1987s and mine was far enough in the "past" to not merit that. So, again, their document is not correct as it should have all customers measure that bearing, not just 1987 owners.

I ordered from summit racing and no place do they have a "instructions from buyer" input box. Must needed to have called in that request.

Darn, more TUITION spent in time and money. So maybe others can fully learn from my journey.

Now John, I see that yours is 1987 TLC and then did have the larger bearing. All making sense now - that is what tuition does for ya - helps to understand things more clearly.

Thanks Elbert

dougbert

 

[Elbert]

I think AA needs to re-write some of their instructions and references on their on web site and make it clear to 2nd tier vendors to incorporate the same.

I'm debating what my next path is...(GM auto trans, NV4500, or ranger). I'm interested in seeing how noisy the ranger is at road speed. I'm low geared at 4.88. If I decide to replace the marks setup....the ranger is a good alternative apparently, that should not require too much modification on my part.