Double Triangulated 4 link.

[Neil826]

Hey guys.
I’m attempting to 4 link the rear of my 80.
So far i have a rough idea of what I want to do but you Americans seem to play around with 4 links a lot more than us Australians.
Afaik no one still has really done much on it on the 80. I’ve only ever seen ones with a frames, or still stock length lowers.
So they plan is lower links to be extended around 900-1000mm long, uppers around 70 - 80% of that which puts them around the floor step up for the second row so they can go higher than the chassis rail. Aim for 25% tire size seperation.
I have had a 4 link truss cut and have some universal lower mounts here too.
I want to bring the lower arms onto the inside of the chassis to give them a little triangulation. Ideally having them below the chassis to keep the links flatter but the problem is that it now becomes a huge hang up point closer to the center of the car.
My car is only 1-2” higher than standard so I’m wondering if I’m better off having the arm bracket only just hang below. Like bolt hole sorta inline with the bottom of the chassis?

anyone have any input or ideas?
Also this is Australia so keeping it sorta factory looking with the least amount of chassis butchery would be good lol.
Also the main fuel tank is a issue that no longer exists.

 

[Feistl]

Hey mate, are you planning to get this engineered or just driving as is?
And I guess the obvious question someone is going to ask is.. why? What are you trying to achieve? The factory 5 link system can be made to work pretty well.

what other mods have you done? I would think you’d get better results putting your budget towards hyper/super flex front arms or front/rear lockers? You’d have to be wanting a very serious rig to need to swap to 4 link

 

[Neil826]

Hey mate, are you planning to get this engineered or just driving as is?
And I guess the obvious question someone is going to ask is.. why? What are you trying to achieve? The factory 5 link system can be made to work pretty well.

what other mods have you done? I would think you’d get better results putting your budget towards hyper/super flex front arms or front/rear lockers? You’d have to be wanting a very serious rig to need to swap to 4 link

It’s front and rear locked, some form of mod plate will be probably going on it’s getting flipped arms in the near future. I dislike hyper/super flex arms as the amount of axle wrap that they procduce with the bushes so close together.

Basically all the links are bent and it needs new bushes, nows the perfect time.
I’m trying to eliminate majority of the rear steer.
I also have a set of coil over that may make it’s way in.

also it will solve this issue of the panhard bracket trying to wipe out my swaybar arm and the side movement of the diff causing the tires to hit the other side.

 

[Azca]

Look for @jcardona1 build thread. His thread on these starts here Builds - Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/evolution-of-a-land-cruiser-my-80s-build-thread.711362/page-123#post-11505871.

 

[jcardona1]

Huge pain in the ass to do but I've been happy with the result. I mostly did it to improve geometry and road handling, not necessarily for more flex.

 

[jcardona1]

And here is the thread that gave me the inspiration

Double triangulated rear 80

ibhaters, people bringing random criticism, defending toyota design, blah blah blah Here's the before. 13 degrees of roll oversteer, low roll center height, tons of flex steer... this is w/ a 5" lift. Horrible. Still flexed ok but didn't work right on-road and was too wobbedy for my tastes. If...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[SNLC]

And here is the thread that gave me the inspiration

Double triangulated rear 80

ibhaters, people bringing random criticism, defending toyota design, blah blah blah Here's the before. 13 degrees of roll oversteer, low roll center height, tons of flex steer... this is w/ a 5" lift. Horrible. Still flexed ok but didn't work right on-road and was too wobbedy for my tastes. If...

forum.ih8mud.com

Ole Booger! My buddy Krazy as well, he is into jet boats now and doesn’t really play with trucks much.

Cheers

 

[cody c]

Sleeve the lowers (and maybe extend) and run a wishbone upper. You can reuse some of the components and it looks almost stock. I guess there’s lots more brackets to cut off the housing and you gotta build a truss to weld to. I probably have some pics of this in my “one ton swap thread” and I forget the monicher, but the gentleman with the portal axled white and orange 80 has this as well, it’s changed hands but the owner is in the forum.

 

[jcardona1]

Sleeve the lowers (and maybe extend) and run a wishbone upper. You can reuse some of the components and it looks almost stock. I guess there’s lots more brackets to cut off the housing and you gotta build a truss to weld to. I probably have some pics of this in my “one ton swap thread” and I forget the monicher, but the gentleman with the portal axled white and orange 80 has this as well, it’s changed hands but the owner is in the forum.

Ah yes, forgot about the Foo. He's got some pics starting on this page.

Builds - What the Foo is this???

@nukegoat @cjmoon Been trying to find instructions on welding these things. They talk about putting a heat sink in the middle. I can turn some brass chunks. Thoughts?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Neil826]

Not really interested in the A frame set ups, I’m willing to chop the rear crossmember out for room for the uppers.
I should of probably said I don’t want to chop entire sections out of rail or simlar lol.
Cheers for the links tho, I do like the idea of a crossmember for the lower links to attach to, I wonder if I can do it a bit lower profile without hitting the tailshaft.

We just finished doing this on a mates car, the brackets were all kit form, so no figuring out was needed. It’s sort of what I’m aiming for

 

[SNLC]

Go search for the build thread M80 by Krazytoy. Lots of good info in it.

Cheers

 

[mazder]

Intrested in doing something like this!

 

[SNLC]

Intrested in doing something like this!

I have heard of people having trouble getting that right. Roll center and squat issues.

Cheers

 

[Neil826]

Well it’s time to start building brackets tomorrow.

suprised the standard arms have lasted that long with me driving so gentle and such over the last 3 years

 

[nukegoat]

It's not rocket science. It's a packaging problem. If you kill the gas tank it's no biggie

 

[Neil826]

I have no idea what I’m doing but I’m doing it,
Opted to have the links beside the chassis for clearance reasons.
They are slightly triangulated inwards, I can also move the diff end out for more.

 

[jcardona1]

I have no idea what I’m doing but I’m doing it

That sounds like all my Land Cruiser projects for the past 9 years.

 

[too tall]

For a double triangulated 4 link the lowers need to be triangulated as well. It is hard unless you remove the factory shock mounts and put the lowers where they used to be. You also have to put the lowers on the frame end as close to the output on the t-case as you can. Looks to me like the exhaust is in the way of doing this. I'm sure there are experts on here that might say different , but generally I try to make the uppers and lowers angle equal and opposite to each other . If the lowers come out from the differential at 15 degrees from 90, the uppers should also be as close to the 15 degrees opposite to the lowers. Not imperative , but will give the most predictable handling characteristics on a double triangulated 4 link . Throw the numbers into a calculator and see what they are where you are at with your current plan.

 

[Neil826]

For a double triangulated 4 link the lowers need to be triangulated as well. It is hard unless you remove the factory shock mounts and put the lowers where they used to be. You also have to put the lowers on the frame end as close to the output on the t-case as you can. Looks to me like the exhaust is in the way of doing this. I'm sure there are experts on here that might say different , but generally I try to make the uppers and lowers angle equal and opposite to each other . If the lowers come out from the differential at 15 degrees from 90, the uppers should also be as close to the 15 degrees opposite to the lowers. Not imperative , but will give the most predictable handling characteristics on a double triangulated 4 link . Throw the numbers into a calculator and see what they are where you are at with your current plan.

It doesn’t look like it but they are triangulated in the photo, not very much but they are.

I probably will end up moving the mounts on the diff outwards too. I guess that mean the shocks will have to go and coil overs in their place haha.
Exhaust should be able to sneak up and around, most of it behind the transfer case will need to be rerouted anyway.
I think I’ve worked out the calculator and will start playing with upper link locations soon

 

[Neil826]