Builds Do I have your attention.... I call it VERA. (3 Viewers)

[2fpower]

Worked on reservoir for overflow…. stock 40 series if I recall. Typically bolted to the washer bottle, so I made a bracket.

 

[2fpower]

Just curious why a different radiator, the stock fj40 radiator with shroud cools the ls just fine.

Not an LS, this is the 4.7 Toyota V8. I don't know of many of these engines on an heavier 80 frame vehicle/axles with 40 series body (thus front opening).

I welcome other people's advice; however, @UZJ40 is one of the only ones that is comparable that I know of.....

LS engines are fine running up to 235 degrees, my recollection the 2uz should be below 220.

 

[UZJ40]

@UZJ40 - when you put in the larger radiator, how did you do that with the radiator "U" frame? Did you mount the "U" on the sides to the frame and just cut the bottom or did you extend it and make new lower mounts?

I honestly don't remember, but I don't think I kept it. It was not in the right position, and too narrow, so I think I got rid of it.

Something else you could do if you have room is remote mount the AC condenser. Throw your Taurus fan on that and have it triggered by your AC switch. Maybe under the front of the bed area?

 

[2fpower]

I honestly don't remember, but I don't think I kept it. It was not in the right position, and too narrow, so I think I got rid of it.

Your memory is slipping....

 

[UZJ40]

Your memory is slipping....

View attachment 3542154

LOL.... I've worked on soooo many projects between then and now. I pretty much have to get rid of old info if I'm trying to remember something new.

 

[2fpower]

Ump-teen years ago, when I started this journey.... @tornadoalleycruiser told me that he "forgot more about landcruisers than I would ever know"....

Took me a long time to understand what he meant.... Well over the past few years, more than a couple times, I have searched mud on how to do something, and found a thread that I made 10 or more years ago, and I have to read through it to figure out how to do it... again.

Well... on that radiator thing, is the current owner on mud? I scoured your thread and saw no pictures of your radiator swap or the install of the mechanical fan.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I do the same thing! I just recently found my own posts on wiring an albright solenoid and wiring a 3fe alternator. Long live mud as a resource. Thanks Brian. I'm prob no help on the radiator other than that temp switch I gave ya.

 

[2fpower]

Searched through the junkyard and found an old Toyota Camry power steering reservoir. It fits on the same mount, but the large tube at the bottom is downward, so allows for the straight pipe to the pump. The tube is from an 80s series.

Next up was washer bottle. I searched around and found one I thought might work from a VW. I could make it work however I just don’t think I need 3 L of capacity, so I’ll use a aftermarket one I’ve had in the shelf for years.

 

[2fpower]

Found a nice place to put the horns next to the radiator. I had to make a bracket for that as room is tight. First picture is of the stock bracket.

Next step was mounting point for the Volvo relays for the fan, as well as amount for a disconnect switch for power, going to the front winch. Made a bracket to do both.

I also started doing all the wiring loom for the front of the car. A lot of things are moving around the engine bay, from the stock tundra locations.

I think officially I am out of room on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Tomorrow’s list is steering shaft, mounting the AC dryer, and I do think I will go ahead and mount the radiator to the frame and cut out the bottom of the U….. so if I ever want to go larger radiator, I can easily.

 

[Bripars40]

I think the radiator you have should work. I ended up ordering another one for my build that was the same except I changed the transmission cooler fitting location to come directly out of the bottom. My temp after it gets warmed up seems to stay between 210 and just under 220. It didn’t matter what I did including pulling a small trailer loaded with fire wood.

I am running a 1uz fan instead of the 2uz because it is an inch or two smaller in diameter which I needed to avoid contact with my power steering box. You are working with the 80 frame, so should have more clearance to the steering box than I did. I also offset my engine about an inch to the passenger side to give me room for the fan and to keep the stock oil filter location.

Something you may have to consider with that radiator is the transmission cooler that is built in. The fittings coming out at the side would probably need to be plumbed with a 90 degree fitting to avoid the fan if you have enough room to fit it, that is if you decide to try and fit the mechanical fan.

I am happy with the mechanical fan it has been drama free. Early in my build I believed I might have been having some temp issues but I eventually figured out that temperature had nothing to do with the issues I was experiencing. I would say the mechanical fan is the way to go if you can fit it in. The way the fan is offset makes it a little challenging but doable with enough engineering.

I thought the 2uz operating temp was supposed to stay around 185-195? 210-220 seems HOT.

 

[cruisermatt]

I thought the 2uz operating temp was supposed to stay around 185-195? 210-220 seems HOT.

210-220 isn't crazy. Especially if it's really hot out

 

[2fpower]

Regardless, I’m an old Boy Scout, so I like to be prepared. Looks like I need about 5 1/2 inches to be able to use mechanical fan. As I’m nowhere close to that I’m going to move forward with the electric Volvo fan. However, I’m going to be prepared to put in a larger radiator later if needed. First step is to make new mounts, and then cut the bottom of the “U”. I had to add a little bit of steel and then was able to use a stock 80 Series radiator mount on the passenger side. Driver side I’m still working on…

 

[2fpower]

Started this morning, working on wiring… got the park and turn lights working… however, the headlights will take some more work. Looks like the LED headlights need switched positive where the stock truck was switched negative for high and low.

Then I worked on the steering… I was kind of worried about this … clearly I should not have been as the steering link worked perfectly, no modification needed

 

[UZJ40]

I thought the 2uz operating temp was supposed to stay around 185-195? 210-220 seems HOT.

210-220 isn't crazy. Especially if it's really hot out

I agree it isn't crazy, but I do think the 2UZ likes to run a bit cooler than that.

When I was going through my fan issues, I drove around with my scanner installed in my 2UZ Tundra at the time and never saw over 200, even uphill in the summer (110f) with AC on. You can hear the fan roar when the clutch engages and the temp just stays right where its at.

Dennis - I don't know if you're using the DD analog needle gauge to view the temp, or the digital readout. I've always noticed that the analog DD gauges read about 10 degrees higher than the digital readout. Also, the digital readout reads about 5-10 degrees warmer than the factory coolant temp sensor as measured by my OBD scanner.

I think there's a thread about that deviation somewhere in the 40 section. Obviously 5-10 degree differential is not the end of the world, but when trying to diagnose cooling issues, every degree makes a difference.

 

[cruisermatt]

I agree it isn't crazy, but I do think the 2UZ likes to run a bit cooler than that.

When I was going through my fan issues, I drove around with my scanner installed in my 2UZ Tundra at the time and never saw over 200, even uphill in the summer (110f) with AC on. You can hear the fan roar when the clutch engages and the temp just stays right where its at.

Dennis - I don't know if you're using the DD analog needle gauge to view the temp, or the digital readout. I've always noticed that the analog DD gauges read about 10 degrees higher than the digital readout. Also, the digital readout reads about 5-10 degrees warmer than the factory coolant temp sensor as measured by my OBD scanner.

I think there's a thread about that deviation somewhere in the 40 section. Obviously 5-10 degree differential is not the end of the world, but when trying to diagnose cooling issues, every degree makes a difference.

Keep in mind the Tundra has larger radiator, better aero, assuming it has smaller tires, not really a fair comparison. 5% deviation from an OEM spec in a swapped vehicle with oversized tires is fine IMO

 

[Tank5]

I agree it isn't crazy, but I do think the 2UZ likes to run a bit cooler than that.

When I was going through my fan issues, I drove around with my scanner installed in my 2UZ Tundra at the time and never saw over 200, even uphill in the summer (110f) with AC on. You can hear the fan roar when the clutch engages and the temp just stays right where its at.

Dennis - I don't know if you're using the DD analog needle gauge to view the temp, or the digital readout. I've always noticed that the analog DD gauges read about 10 degrees higher than the digital readout. Also, the digital readout reads about 5-10 degrees warmer than the factory coolant temp sensor as measured by my OBD scanner.

I think there's a thread about that deviation somewhere in the 40 section. Obviously 5-10 degree differential is not the end of the world, but when trying to diagnose cooling issues, every degree makes a difference.

My reading of the temp is coming from the analog needle DD gauge which does not provide a precise reading. If the DD is reading about 10 degrees high that would pIace my reading closer to 200 to 208. I don’t have a scan gauge or like device to get a digital reading on it but I am sure I can find one to borrow.

I wouldn’t be surprised if my 45 ran a little higher than others. The air flow through the grill is much small than a stock 100 series and I have that 8274 sticking up in front too.

The 45 weighed in at 5740 with a full tank, driver and gear in the bed. Given the restricted airflow, heavy 45, and running 37s. I expect it might run higher than some.

I ran it like this all summer and pulling a trailer with at least a full cord of wood and it never spiked above 220 on the analog gauge.

In my build thread I reference the temp spiking above 220 on the analog gauge when the truck died coming back from the dump. After it died the temperature did rise above 220 but that only lasted a bit and was most likely because the fan was no longer cooling the radiator. I later learned the truck died because I had a bad connection at the fuel pump relay. Fixed that and never had the same issue.

Now I am curious, I will get a digital reading and report back.

For what it is worth there is a thread in the 100 series section that discusses the spec. Temperature for the 2uz. There seems to be a range of real world temperature readings reported.

If anyone wants to read that thread.

2UZ-FE Normal Operating Temperature

Hi Mudders! I've searched the 100 series forums and couldn't find a definitive answer. What is the normal operating temperature for the 2UZ-FE during normal driving conditions? In cooler and warmer climates? I currently have a 98 with 169,000 miles still equipped with the original radiator...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2fpower]

Great info…

I figured the front driver mount out. The steering box is in the way to mimic the passenger side so I put it in front, it will still be behind the bib and not noticeable much. With that done I pulled it, chopped the bottom, so it’s ready for a bigger radiator someday if needed. As you see, I left the front lip that does not impede with the radiator. Kind of like a small angle iron…. About 1/2 deep. This gave me my mount for the power steering cooler and some added rigidity.

 

[2fpower]

With all that done, got back to the goal of mounting the air conditioner dryer. Use some old hose to mimic the line coming up from the evaporator and it looks like it’ll fit just next to the headlight.

 

[mtweller]

If worried about stacking heat exhangers and the impact on cooling, you can do like I did for power steering and mount a cylindrical cooler on the front crossmember. I did a little research and found something years ago that show this type is more efficient than the finned coolers, but I'm not sure that's 100% true.

You can just see it here mounted to the front crossmember, under my winch.

 

[2fpower]

If worried about stacking heat exhangers and the impact on cooling, you can do like I did for power steering and mount a cylindrical cooler on the front crossmember. I did a little research and found something years ago that show this type is more efficient than the finned coolers, but I'm not sure that's 100% true.

View attachment 3551038

You can just see it here mounted to the front crossmember, under my winch.

I will keep that in my back pocket.