Builds Do I have your attention.... I call it VERA.
- Thread starter 2fpower
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Nope, not me. I believe it would be really tough to add cruise with the factory ECU. You'd need 4 wheel speed sensors, the skid control ECU, and maybe the ABS ECU.
I did aftermarket cruise on the UZJ using Dakota Digital which I believe is a rebranded Rostra unit. It worked well with the DD brain unit though since there's a speed sensor output.
2fpower
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Kind of simple project tonight, but I needed a “win”…. Seems like 2024 is out to get me!! Hood struts. Thanks to @kc_chevota and @tornadoalleycruiser for the ideas. Also, was very surprised to see that the stock Fj40 bumper goes right around the 80 Series frame. Bumper was donated by @1MAC .. thank you, sir!!!
2fpower
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First up was the fan shroud. I am doing a 2 stage Volvo fan. Given the issues I had with my ls swapped 73 series, I wanted to use mechanical fan, however, the engine sits so low compared to the radiator, the fan would be partially below the radiator. Thus…. Started with a late year fan shroud, and estimated that I needed to lower it by about 5/8 inch. Lots of cutting and welding later it fit perfectly
2fpower
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Next up was to do all the changes needed to the radiator surround and mount the power steering cooler. Ended up taking almost an entire day…. Also made the mount for the power steering reservoir. Running out of square footage for things under the hood….
Still need to mount :
Volvo relay setup for fan
Washer fluid
heater control
overflow tank
Still need to mount :
Volvo relay setup for fan
Washer fluid
heater control
overflow tank
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How are you planning to control the Volvo fan? I ran a switch in the cab for on/off and then a temp sensor in the upper radiator hose to trigger the high speed fan. I was thinking about how to eliminate the temp sensor for something triggered by the ecu. Mostly because I don’t like having the upper hose split into two sections.
2fpower
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Yes, plan on putting an in line temp sending sending unit to hit the relay's for the fan. It will be one of those that goes in the heater hose.
I think I have a dual switch in my box that @tornadoalleycruiser found for me.
Great info here..
Volvo Electric Cooling Fan
Hey, not sure you if read through or recall, but I had a lot of issues with my 2UZ and Taurus/Volvo fan. It obviously gets very hot here in the summer, and we have some pretty good grades.Yes, plan on putting an in line temp sending sending unit to hit the relay's for the fan. It will be one of those that goes in the heater hose.
I think I have a dual switch in my box that @tornadoalleycruiser found for me.
Great info here..
Volvo Electric Cooling Fan
www.therangerstation.com
I originally went with a factory size Champion radiator with Volvo fan. This would not keep the truck cool going uphill above about 50mph with the AC off. Then, decided to upgrade to a larger 19x26 radiator with the Volvo fan. While it ran cooler, it still would get hot (220+) going up hill, even with the AC off. I finally got tired of worrying about it and moved the radiator and condenser forward enough I could fit the mechanical fan and never had another issue.
For what its worth, I did use a clutch/fan from an LS430, as it isn't as long as a Tundra fan. I think its about 1" shorter IIRC.
I know you went to a lot of work to make that shroud, I just hate to see someone else go through what I did.
I think the biggest issue is that no matter how large of a radiator you run, the actual openings in the front grill/bezel are so small that at freeway speeds, the ram air is very limited compared to other vehicles with large openings. Being that you lose a lot of the ram air effect, you have to have a mechanical fan that will outperform any electric fan out there.
If there was room in a 40 to run a larger radiator, you could possibly get by with a 2-10" or 2-12" SPAL fan setup and that might keep it cool, but its almost impossible to fit that large of a radiator, especially the way the front bib angles up away from the frame.
Anyway, take that information for what its worth. Good luck!
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2fpower
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I really appreciate you sharing all of this, as I did not recall all of your issues. My head is spinning right now, but this is the time to change this. Again, I really, really appreciate your experience. I always say I want to be a student of history, not a victim of it. Clearly, I did not learn enough....
I do have the large ron davis radiator that @Tank5 had sourced; however, it likely is similar to what you had so I should not trust it to take care of the heat issues.
Any idea of how much room you need for the SC430 clutch and fan?
I likely would need to move the engine back, as there is very little space between the engine and the radiator now. The new headers would allow this movement backwards. I think I could get an inch easy, two may be pushing it. I don't know how to move the radiator forward. Currently the power steering cooler is almost touching the bib and the a/c is also as close as I want it to the radiator. Did you modify the bib to push the radiator forward?
I will also need to raise the engine up as well as the fan spindle seems very low on the radiator. I raised the tub about 1.5 inches last year to get the bed to fit correctly, so there is some space to go up. Probably could get 2 inches at least -- maybe more.
@kc_chevota how have you done on heat issues?
I don't recall how long they were from hub to fan blade. Maybe ask someone selling that setup on ebay if they can measure for you...
I'm not saying you need to change everything, it's just something to consider. The first year or so I drove that, I was battling that issue. That's why I planned the 5.7 swap around a mechanical fan and nothing else, I didn't want that stress again. It's not fun staring at your water temp every time you drive up an incline.
At one point I even got a wideband o2 sensor to make sure I wasn't running lean, or having some other timing issue making it run hot.
We are in a harsh environment here though... I'd say the extreme side of it. I mean, there's a reason they bring vehicles here to test in the summer time.
I'm sure there are plenty of guys with 4.7 and larger swaps that have no cooling issues with electric fans, but I definitely had an unfavorable experience.
I'm not saying you need to change everything, it's just something to consider. The first year or so I drove that, I was battling that issue. That's why I planned the 5.7 swap around a mechanical fan and nothing else, I didn't want that stress again. It's not fun staring at your water temp every time you drive up an incline.
At one point I even got a wideband o2 sensor to make sure I wasn't running lean, or having some other timing issue making it run hot.
We are in a harsh environment here though... I'd say the extreme side of it. I mean, there's a reason they bring vehicles here to test in the summer time.
I'm sure there are plenty of guys with 4.7 and larger swaps that have no cooling issues with electric fans, but I definitely had an unfavorable experience.
Tank5
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I think the radiator you have should work. I ended up ordering another one for my build that was the same except I changed the transmission cooler fitting location to come directly out of the bottom. My temp after it gets warmed up seems to stay between 210 and just under 220. It didn’t matter what I did including pulling a small trailer loaded with fire wood.
I am running a 1uz fan instead of the 2uz because it is an inch or two smaller in diameter which I needed to avoid contact with my power steering box. You are working with the 80 frame, so should have more clearance to the steering box than I did. I also offset my engine about an inch to the passenger side to give me room for the fan and to keep the stock oil filter location.
Something you may have to consider with that radiator is the transmission cooler that is built in. The fittings coming out at the side would probably need to be plumbed with a 90 degree fitting to avoid the fan if you have enough room to fit it, that is if you decide to try and fit the mechanical fan.
I am happy with the mechanical fan it has been drama free. Early in my build I believed I might have been having some temp issues but I eventually figured out that temperature had nothing to do with the issues I was experiencing. I would say the mechanical fan is the way to go if you can fit it in. The way the fan is offset makes it a little challenging but doable with enough engineering.
I am running a 1uz fan instead of the 2uz because it is an inch or two smaller in diameter which I needed to avoid contact with my power steering box. You are working with the 80 frame, so should have more clearance to the steering box than I did. I also offset my engine about an inch to the passenger side to give me room for the fan and to keep the stock oil filter location.
Something you may have to consider with that radiator is the transmission cooler that is built in. The fittings coming out at the side would probably need to be plumbed with a 90 degree fitting to avoid the fan if you have enough room to fit it, that is if you decide to try and fit the mechanical fan.
I am happy with the mechanical fan it has been drama free. Early in my build I believed I might have been having some temp issues but I eventually figured out that temperature had nothing to do with the issues I was experiencing. I would say the mechanical fan is the way to go if you can fit it in. The way the fan is offset makes it a little challenging but doable with enough engineering.
2fpower
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@Tank5 ... Good point about the tranny cooler outputs I had not thought about that.
I did take a look at my firewall, and I may have an inch more room to push back... recall that I pushed my firewall forward about 3 inches to gain more legroom.....
The other thought I had today is that the area below the radiator mount is pretty clear, and the frame is wide enough, it appears you could put in a taller radiator. I could extend the radiator down about 5 inches at least. Airflow is not great through that area, but it would add about a square foot of radiator. This would be similar to the 70 series rigs.
searching for the SC430 or ls430, they all show electric fans - dual
I did take a look at my firewall, and I may have an inch more room to push back... recall that I pushed my firewall forward about 3 inches to gain more legroom.....
The other thought I had today is that the area below the radiator mount is pretty clear, and the frame is wide enough, it appears you could put in a taller radiator. I could extend the radiator down about 5 inches at least. Airflow is not great through that area, but it would add about a square foot of radiator. This would be similar to the 70 series rigs.
searching for the SC430 or ls430, they all show electric fans - dual
2fpower
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After looking back at that thread, I didn't talk much about moving to the mechanical fan... Sorry about that. I am not sure why I didn't include that information.
Tank5
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I just looked back through my thread and found the 1uz fan, I didn't document the part number for the fan but I did measure the diameter is 18.5 inches. a quick search on Ebay and I found this. 1uzfe Viscous Fan | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/274306431948
Let me think about it... I thought it was an LS, but maybe not. Like Dennis said, it might have been from a 1UZ of some type. As long as its mechanical and out of a car and not a truck, it should be shorter. I'll see if I can dig up what and where I got it.
2fpower
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Just sent the seller a message. Currently I have about 4 inches from the engine mount of fan to the radiator face.
And.... I got a closer look and I have only about 1/2 inch to move the engine back...
@UZJ40 - when you put in the larger radiator, how did you do that with the radiator "U" frame? Did you mount the "U" on the sides to the frame and just cut the bottom or did you extend it and make new lower mounts?
