Builds Do I have your attention.... I call it VERA.
- Thread starter 2fpower
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2fpower
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My plan is to assemble VERA all together, drive it some and then tear down and do the body/paintwork.
Thus I spent the last day doing all sorts of little things.... and have heavily leaned on friends to get some answers.
Next challenge is the center diff lock and front/rear locker wiring. I don't plan to use the factory computer for an 80 series, so looking for help wiring up this.
On the 80 series forum there are wiring diagrams for the front and rear locker wiring, but I have not seen anything for the center locker.
Recall that the wiring harness I have for VERA is from a 2wd Tundra so there is no existing wiring to the transfer case. I have a 100 series wiring loom for the connections, so need to create everything from there.
Thus I spent the last day doing all sorts of little things.... and have heavily leaned on friends to get some answers.
Next challenge is the center diff lock and front/rear locker wiring. I don't plan to use the factory computer for an 80 series, so looking for help wiring up this.
On the 80 series forum there are wiring diagrams for the front and rear locker wiring, but I have not seen anything for the center locker.
Recall that the wiring harness I have for VERA is from a 2wd Tundra so there is no existing wiring to the transfer case. I have a 100 series wiring loom for the connections, so need to create everything from there.
I read through @UZJ40 build thread when I did my center lock wiring. It’s like midway through his build thread for his old 2uz 40 build.
I used a couple relays in my setup. I saw this wiring diagram for a Tacoma and I believe it would work for the CDL and be much simpler, no relays required.
2fpower
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2fpower
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info here....
There are three position sensor switches on a 100 series /80 series transfer case. my first step was to figure out what each one was. The front lower by the front driveshaftt (prop-rod for you Aussies )-- is the center diff lock indicator. On the top pass side is the low switch indicator and then back on driver side rear is a neutral switch. Not sure what good the neutral switch is in my application, but I will drag the wires to the top regardless.
There are three position sensor switches on a 100 series /80 series transfer case. my first step was to figure out what each one was. The front lower by the front driveshaftt (prop-rod for you Aussies )-- is the center diff lock indicator. On the top pass side is the low switch indicator and then back on driver side rear is a neutral switch. Not sure what good the neutral switch is in my application, but I will drag the wires to the top regardless.
2fpower
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Thanks to @kc_chevota Got the engine back in, waiting on a new fan bearing part Aisin FBT 002 -- so started working on all the different things. I had a wiring harness that @Tank5 had given me years ago, stripped it back to find three separate harnesses. One was for the rear oxygen sensors—-goodbye!! Second was for Transmission, that my current 2 Wheel Drive harness already have… see ya!!! so I was left with just what I wanted the transfer case harness.
2fpower
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Lots going on here…. FIrst off, tried to mount up the vacuum booster from an 80 series and it was to long of bolt. Tried an old FJ40 and it was close, with a few spacer washers it would work, but then I decided to use a die and thread more of the bolt from a T100 booster. It was shorter than the 80 series, and about the same as the old FJ40 booster... cut about 1/2 more thread, cut off about an inch of thread and it is perfect.
Here it is mocked up with an 80 series master. I will use a T100 master (non-abs) with 1 1/16 bore.
Here is the mount I made for the fuse/relay box under the hood with the fj40 booster
and this is the crazy tailed mount I made for the fuse/relay box
Here it is mocked up with an 80 series master. I will use a T100 master (non-abs) with 1 1/16 bore.
Here is the mount I made for the fuse/relay box under the hood with the fj40 booster
and this is the crazy tailed mount I made for the fuse/relay box
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2fpower
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Good news is I found the front and rear 80 Series lock and wiring harnesses, bad news is I can’t find the harness going back to the fuel tank and rear lights. Guess it’s time to find a junkyard.
On another note, I recall at some point, finding a thread about adding cruise control…. @UZJ40 was that you?
On another note, I recall at some point, finding a thread about adding cruise control…. @UZJ40 was that you?
2fpower
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- #658
Lots of progress today….
looks like I need to cut about 6" off the intake and move some of the vacuum lines.
Here is what I did for the radiator support pieces. I welded tabs on my spring tower fender mounts and made some new rods. I had to cut, bend and weld the mounts on the radiator as the frame is so much wider.
welded the mounts for the A/C evaporator and got the radiator in.
inside the cab, I started moving the wires up to the mounting points I put in earlier and started routing the air lines....
once I get the headlights in, the air intake in, I will figure out where to put the power steering reservoir.
also made a mount on the side of the steering column/brake pedal mount for the dakota digital controller.
looks like I need to cut about 6" off the intake and move some of the vacuum lines.
Here is what I did for the radiator support pieces. I welded tabs on my spring tower fender mounts and made some new rods. I had to cut, bend and weld the mounts on the radiator as the frame is so much wider.
welded the mounts for the A/C evaporator and got the radiator in.
inside the cab, I started moving the wires up to the mounting points I put in earlier and started routing the air lines....
once I get the headlights in, the air intake in, I will figure out where to put the power steering reservoir.
also made a mount on the side of the steering column/brake pedal mount for the dakota digital controller.
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2fpower
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As FLETCH said, it’s all about the ball bearings…. Well these two ball bearings are getting really noisy on my house furnace blower fan. Of course it is an all time record in Kansas City for low temperature today. -12° outside…. And I can’t find a parts house in town that has this bearing on a Sunday. So that was half of my day…. Got a big fire in the fireplace to keep warm.
First step was an easy task to change the front bib lights to turn and park. After taking apart, realized all I had to do was solder another contact on.
Next step was to get the intake cut and welded
And huge credit goes to @Tank5 for designing this radiator to be able to use the stock hoses!!!! Just had to trim them down a little.
And I did have to fab up a rear support for the battery tray…. Something I overlooked before.
First step was an easy task to change the front bib lights to turn and park. After taking apart, realized all I had to do was solder another contact on.
Next step was to get the intake cut and welded
And huge credit goes to @Tank5 for designing this radiator to be able to use the stock hoses!!!! Just had to trim them down a little.
And I did have to fab up a rear support for the battery tray…. Something I overlooked before.
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2fpower
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In case you wonder, I am going to totally plagiarize @Tank5 's front bumper.
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Builds - "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta
I am waiting on the 3/8 winch plate to finish the bumper, so I started working on the fan shroud. I have convinced my self that using a mechanical fan would be better than an electric fan if I can make it fit. The 2uz 100 series fan was originally 20.5 inches I believe. It wouldn’t fit, so...
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