Builds Do I have your attention.... I call it VERA. (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2fpower
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2fpower
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- #22
Not much progress today.... ordered the gasket for the oil pickup tube and the oil filter body, as need to swap over to the other style. need to see if I can find any pics of motor mounts as to where to install them as the mounting points on the engine allow for a lot of flexibility as well as how high the engine should sit and if I should shift to passenger side at all. Anyone have thoughts? @UZJ40 ?
Especially for as low budget as it was, that was an amazing show. Good on you for getting the kids in on it.
You should consider doing builds for profit, I've seen your attention to detail it is impeccable.
You should consider doing builds for profit, I've seen your attention to detail it is impeccable.
2fpower
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- #25
just found a pic of slee's motor mount made for a 2uz for @Waggoner5 's 45 project. looks like they used a LCA bushing...
Very true, but this is the only way I con you into building one for me 
2fpower
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- #27
Got The parts from Toyota, so got the oil pans on, then mounted the transmission up. Decided to try to see if I could get it to fit in.... and the answer was no.
Because the cats were hitting the frame on each side I cut them off right above the cat But below the upstream oxygen sensor .
Because the cats were hitting the frame on each side I cut them off right above the cat But below the upstream oxygen sensor .
2fpower
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- #28
So, with those out of the way things went a little faster
So the question I have here is how do I know what angle to have the engine sitting? Should I Center it left to right evenly?
Tons of room behind the engine to the firewall
The transmission uses the same mounting points as the stock 80 series, even though it’s 100 series transmission
Plenty of room to make the motor mounts
So the question I have here is how do I know what angle to have the engine sitting? Should I Center it left to right evenly?
Tons of room behind the engine to the firewall
The transmission uses the same mounting points as the stock 80 series, even though it’s 100 series transmission
Plenty of room to make the motor mounts
2fpower
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- #29
Here’s my first guess at making my first set of motor mounts. I bought DOM sleeved tubes, inner and outer sleeved. Does it matter which side has the outer sleeve and which has bolt?
My plan is to tack weld this all together on a large plate that I will then tack weld to the frame until I get it exactly where I want it and weld it in
In this picture I let it drop about an inch lower, I think it may make more sense to have the engine side of the mount be longer than the frame side ?? Thoughts??
Not a lot of room for the oil filter. May have to put the External filter kit on that @uzjz40 used.
My plan is to tack weld this all together on a large plate that I will then tack weld to the frame until I get it exactly where I want it and weld it in
In this picture I let it drop about an inch lower, I think it may make more sense to have the engine side of the mount be longer than the frame side ?? Thoughts??
Not a lot of room for the oil filter. May have to put the External filter kit on that @uzjz40 used.
Can you mount the tcase then decide the angle of the engine? Look at your 80 and compare the end result?
Afaik it doesn't really matter if the engine is centered. Some mount v8s more to the passenger side for more steering shaft real estate. If I recall my 2f in my 40 leans back about 2 degrees. What made u decide to settle on using a 2uz motor?
2fpower
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- #33
I bought this project with the motor/trans/t-case, so that is how I got to this point. I am going to start a thread over on the 80 series V* section to see if there is anyone that has put a 2uz in an 80 with advice.... or anyone that has a Slee'd 2uz 80 that owns a tape measure.
These are some ideas that come into my head just from working with my LS swap although your motor has completely different dimensions. Get the steering box in and steering column and get an idea for what you can fit for a steering shaft. I would also pull the coils so that the suspension sits at full stuff and bolt on a front drive shaft to see what you have for clearance as far as axle to oil pan and what kind of room you need for running the exhaust for clearance.
2fpower
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- #35
Found that the transmission mount on the 100 series has a big round alignment pin on it, so was keeping the tranny about half an inch higher than it should be, so I swapped it out on 80 series mount.
Based on tornado, I measured the difference between the angle of the transmission and the frame and came up with 2.8° on a stock 80. At first I had a 7° difference, drop the engine a bit and got it down to 4 1/2°. If I’m concerned at all I can raise the transmission up.
Then I started to fabricate a motor mount, engine side.
Based on tornado, I measured the difference between the angle of the transmission and the frame and came up with 2.8° on a stock 80. At first I had a 7° difference, drop the engine a bit and got it down to 4 1/2°. If I’m concerned at all I can raise the transmission up.
Then I started to fabricate a motor mount, engine side.
Are you going to run full-time 4wd?
If so, you may need to raise the transmission more to keep the front driveshaft at a happy angle. Keep an eye on the front tcase flange angle.
If so, you may need to raise the transmission more to keep the front driveshaft at a happy angle. Keep an eye on the front tcase flange angle.
2fpower
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- #37
Was able to get out for a few hours tonight, and played with the angle of the engine. I put the steering gearbox in place to check for clearances, not a problem there, except for the lower AC line. It is hard aluminum pipe 15 mm od. tried to move it by praying on it and it is not moving. If anyone has an idea of another application they would have a tight bend to it, let me know. Was able to move the engine down to get to about 3.8° . I did make some 3/8 inch shims to raise the transmission and that brought me down to 3.5°. The goal is to get back to the stock 80 series of 2.8 Degree. To get back to stock 80 series, I’m going to have to be able to drop the engine more, so will have to figure out the ac lines.
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Would something like this work? Denso 10S17F 10S20F A/C Compressor Fitting Adapters | eBay
2fpower
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- #40
Maybe... I would need to find a very tight turn after that or maybe a flex line and I have a feeling I would be in the same situation.
If on another car they did a tight turn like the other side on this compressor, see pic below, that would be best. FYI, It is a smaller line, so I can't use that line.
from ebay:
These blocks are ideal for when the compressor is mounted on the bottom of the engine and there is little clearance. They plug into the compressor and point the threaded fittings out toward the clutch.
GM Nippondenso (Denso) 10S17F & 10S20F compressor adapters used to convert a stock compressor to aftermarket hoses. The adapters are standard #8 discharge and #10 suction fittings. The discharge fitting has standard 3/4"-16 and the suction fitting has 7/8"-14 threads. The fittings are made of aluminum. Sealing washers and orings are included
So, need to figure out if the Toyota hose is #8 or #10 suction size.
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