dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!

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Dmad- I am pretty sure that the 3B is 12V. I will double check when I get home today, but I am 90% sure.

How difficult (and when I say that I am thinking cash involved too) is it to convert to 24V

Glow plugs, starter.....what else?

-dallas

ps I have heard starters are a $mint$, but I have no idea. I feel like a blond at an auto parts store.
 
Dmad- I am pretty sure that the 3B is 12V........

How difficult (and when I say that I am thinking cash involved too) is it to convert to 24V

Glow plugs, starter.....what else?

-dallas

ps I have heard starters are a $mint$, but I have no idea. I feel like a blond at an auto parts store.

There's no doubt that this is a significant setback.

Glowplugs are cheap and readily available so changing them between 12V and 24V applications is easy peasy.

But it sounds like the 12V EDIC/FuelControl motor and starter motor will be incompatible with your 24 volt aim.

So you'll need to decide which way you want to go .... 12V or 24V (assuming you're locked into obtaining this motor). And then you'll need to go about getting all relays, glowplugs, starter and fuel-control/EDIC to match.

(And what did the PO do with the battery/batteries, headlights, blinker relay, horn, wipers etc etc? Since this was originally a 24V set-up and presumably the PO converted it to 12V simultaneously with the V8 conversion????)

A lot of people discard the fuel-control/EDIC system in such circumstances and replace it in favour of a simple cable operation. However if you choose to do this:
  • your finished vehicle will be a significant departure from "standard/OEM"
  • you will lose the "loss of oil pressure protection" whereby the EDIC system shuts down your engine automatically when you lose oil pressure, and
  • unless your cable system is quite sophisticated, you'll also lose the easy-starting effect produced by the EDIC system moving the injection-pump lever to "over-inject/overfuel" during cranking.
The cable system modification is usually simply used to pull the IP lever to "stop/fuel-cut-off" when you want to kill your engine. At other times it just leaves the lever in the "run position" (where it automatically sits ....due to internal spring pressure... when EDIC-control-rod or cable-pressure is removed.)

So it sounds like you may have some serious parts sourcing to do Dallas.

With the starter .... be aware that you can do a "nose-cone swap" to get another starter motor to be able to crank your engine .... but both 24V and 12V 3B starter do still come onto the market second hand too. So this isn't as big an obstacle as you may think. :)

"Research" and "thought" are your friends (in conjunction with resisting impulse buys)

:beer:
 
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Sigh.......another Sigh......and a deep breath.

I don't care if it takes me 50 years, this particular BJ42 will be 24V and it will be just as it was when it left Toyota. I (we together) can do this and make it right. If I can take short cuts to make starters, pumps, radios and so forth work, great. If not, I hope that parts and pieces will pop up as we begin this venture.

I need some good news.....
 
Here are some shots of the vacuum tank and lines that go out of it. One end to the break booster and the other to the vacuum pump They go from rubber to steal back to rubber. Hope these help


The right side goes to the break booster and the left comes from the suction pump
IMG_1415.webp
IMG_1416.webp
IMG_1418.webp
 
Here's some more of the back of the tank, the actual suction pump and the oil line that goes to it from the top of the filter.
IMG_1428.webp
IMG_1433.webp
IMG_1427.webp
 
I have hunting arond for 1981 rigs just to see how many are out thier and have come across a few.

I think someone in Ontario is parting one out, you may be able to get a few parts from him, search it here on mud..

There are 24 volt engines complete with trannies for sale in craiglist vancouver.

Rob
 
There's no doubt that this is a significant setback.

..... (assuming you're locked into obtaining this motor).....
:beer:


I didn't want to imply (with phrases like these) that you've done wrong by buying that motor Dallas (that now appears to have plugs, EDIC and starter that are 12V rather than 24V).

If it has EDIC control at all (and the associated inline injection pump) and is in good nick then it was probably a wise move regardless.

....I don't care if it takes me 50 years, this particular BJ42 will be 24V and it will be just as it was when it left Toyota.....

And I love to see someone who knows exactly what they want and is determined to go out and achieve it. :clap:

(That really makes me keen to try and help!)

:cheers:
 
Marbles/Crew....

Thank you for everything, I am hoping this turns out.

I just went out and started checking everything I could think to check before I needed to run an errand with my wife.

I don't want to wish bad luck up on myself, but......I might be lucky to have a lot of the 24V stuff still in place, including wiring.

For example, I plucked off the wiper motor cover:

wipermotor.jpg


Glow Plug Relay:

glowplugrelay.jpg


Starter Relay:

starterrelay.jpg


12V horn along with the 24?

horns.jpg


I am not sure what this is...

uknownresister.jpg


The dimmer relay looks to be 12V:

dimmerrelay.jpg


Up underneath, I can't make out the label, any ideas?

unknownrelay.jpg


I am hoping even with the 12V stuff I'll have something to barder with or know what to ask for. I don't know. . .

I am just trying to be optimistic.

-dallas
 
Yes I think you are lucky Dallas. It appears to me that your PO hadn't gotten into full destructive mode before deciding to quit.

Even that 12V "dimmer relay" may be correct for your 24V Canadian cruiser because I understand the Canadians pressured Toyota into providing them with 12V headlights (rather than 24V) and I recall seeing "headlight dimmer relays" mentioned in wiring diagrams for such vehicles. (I certainly don't have such a thing on my 1979 12V Australian BJ40.)
 
Alot of the stuff you may have worried about is actually 12 Volts. Headlights for example on mine anyway is 12 volts. A real pain if you burn one light out and run with it for too long you can have battery issues down the line. The horn is 12 v also same power as the left head light. As for you mystery relay, I think it might be your blinker. It's in the right spot and looks like mine. It's strong enough that when it's blinking I can feel it in my left foot. Keep on trucking
 
Awesome!! Thanks guys. This is so fun.

On other news, I took up Radd Cruisers suggestion and emailed folks up in Canada on EDIC and Starters.
If any of you are people I emailed, hello again!

I'll keep you all posted if I can find the correct pieces.

Thanks!

-dallas

ps. At this point I am just trying to collect all of the correct pieces that are major show stoppers and hard to find. Stuff that is readily available I'll wait until later.

-dallas
 
I know your going for as close to OEM as possible but a Solar converter ( look up stone's set up for wiring) is worth it's weight in gold. For battery equalizing alone it's awesome but for 12 V requirements, trailer lights for example. Other then that you got it all. Alternator, Starter, glow plugs plus relay, EDIC + relay, heater fan motor, radio, wiper and wind shield washer motor, and lights there's nothing else electric and you've got most of them. As for the windshield wash motor I got one from NAPA 20 $ when mine packed it. IT's a 12 volt but it's been one for three years and hasn't died yet.
 
You're a quick learner Dallas!

you've got a pretty complete list there.

Everything else is truck related, like lights, oil pressure sender, etc.... But you've got the list of stuff to make it run, and it looks like you've got most everything you need still on the truck (thank the Lord for lazy POs, eh?). I'd bet that you might be able to trade straight up for the starter and alternators somehow. I think it's MUCH more common to want to convert from 24V to 12V, so you've got some valuable goodies there to trade with...

Dan
 
Warning:
Match any EDIC/FuelControl motor you source to the connectors in your loom Dallas. For instance, my 1979 BJ40 EDIC system uses a different relay and different EDIC motor to a 1981 BJ42. And it uses two connectors instead of one at the EDIC motor end.

And I suspect not all 3B starters will mate with your engine. (If I was you I'd wait till I have the existing 12V starter (& here I'm presuming one is on that engine) and use it to obtain a match of the "nose" (and a match of its gear that engages with your flywheel)...... Although it is true that noses can be swapped-over as already mentioned.

And yes ... you will need a 24V alternator with the vacuum pump attached (or onto which you can mount the vac pump off the 12V alternator). ...The vacuum pump (and your desire to make the vehicle OEM) obviously reduces your choices here ... and much more so than if it was a petrol engine involved.

:cheers:

Edit. As Dan mentions ...."oil pressure" and "coolant temperature" sender units on your 12V engine may need changing to 24V units too.
 
Can't you get the starter and alt rewound at a local shop... I found one here to rewire my 24 to 12 lol but after reading all the good stuff with 24vlt .... I changed my mind and I'm going witha converter for my radios and such... Great info btw keep it coming
 
Dallas, pretty sure I have the hand throttle and bracket though the cable is missing. At least the cable is the easy part to replace. These came off my troopy as it had a pto originally. So one item you can cross off the list.

Sweet!

Give me a call :-) Or I might could just swing on by sometime.

-dallas
 
Can't you get the starter and alt rewound at a local shop...

Yes. I too would think that is a possibility. (But it may involve risk and someone fussy about their restorations may not want to go down that path IMO.)

The 12V starter is 2.5kW and the 24V version of the same one (for a BJ42) is 4.5kW (Almost twice the power output.)

As far as alternators are concerned, I'm pretty sure the OEM 12V alternator is 40A whereas the 24V version is 25A. (24V version again has a higher POWER rating .... but not so dramatically so.)

Dallas, pretty sure I have the hand throttle and bracket though the cable is missing. At least the cable is the easy part to replace. These came off my troopy as it had a pto originally. So one item you can cross off the list.

Here are some pics of the RH-drive version so you can see how it works and what else may be missing Dallas:

HandThrottle1.webp

HandThrottle2.webp

HandThrottle3.webp
HandThrottle1.webp
HandThrottle2.webp
HandThrottle3.webp
 

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