Events/Trails DIY Turbo V1.0, Boosted 80 = Happiness

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Haha, I disagree, I feel there should be pressure on anyone selling a product to provide data. I got burned on the LT MAF housing and I don't feel like it is too much to provide the data so that consumers can make educated decisions based on that.
 
I know the owner Harry at HK, already spoke to him a month ago about it. He said only 2wd dyno. So when I decide to pull the shaft, I will have the numbers. Thanks for all the pressure but I doubt you need the kit scottryana.
 
Yeah it is just a 2wd dynojet 248x, so you would have to pull the front driveshaft, 8 bolts. I am just being a vocal minority, but it could bode very well for your sales of the kit, if you can show TRD Supercharger like gains at a cheaper price point, and ease of installation. But as of right now gains are kind of up in the air. Like I said I am extra vocal about it right now, simply because I made a costly mistake of listening to everyone's seat of the pants impressions on the LT MAF housing, it ended up costing me about $700 in buying and testing with it, and since I was under the impression I wouldn't need a turbo since I was going to gain extra power with it, I didn't do any of the mods I should have to prep for turbo'ing. i.e. head studs, metal head gasket, etc. during my rebuild, that wouldn't have cost me much more than oem parts while it was apart, but is now a huge expense. Additionally I am having to do rework on the intake tube, ceramic coating, etc. So yes I am probably not the guy to talk to when it comes to power adders and claims of power. I want everything backed up with data, simply because it stops any questions anyone might have before a bunch are sold.

Sorry man don't take it personally. I think it is great that people are coming in with good new ideas!
 
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I am not at all offended or feel pressured. I was just having some fun. But you have a great point. There are a lot of claims out there especially in the performance industry where people throw numbers without any data to back it up with. I originally built this setup because I love my truck in all aspects except power, which in my line of work is everything. I have a fully built caged Supra, E55 supercharged Benz, and a V8 powered 240z, so you kinda get why I had to do something about this Cruiser. But as soon as time permits with my work schedule I will make a stop over to HK and do a few runs to get some numbers for you guys.
 
Yeah the dyno thing would be awesome. I drove with no front drive shaft for a few months and just locked the center dif. Then I drove with no rear shaft for a while when I bent my rear shaft. No issues. You could do a dyno run in front wheel drive and rear wheel drive if ya wanted to be cool.
 
I wonder if dyno numbers will change much from front wheel vs. rear wheel tests
 
2KCruiser said:
I wonder if dyno numbers will change much from front wheel vs. rear wheel tests
Click to expand...

Doubtful, as the center diff has to be locked to go two wheel drive. Locked= equal power to the front and rear.
 
Hey John,

Scottryana et al. are totally correct here. Many of us will not pull the trigger on mods without data. Thus all the strong suggestions for a few dyno runs. I, like a lot of folks here, am really excited about what you have done here. I appreciate the fresh and simple/uncomplicated approach with apparently few downsides. I expect most here on MUD are only expecting modest power gains.

I am 144.8 miles south of you and quite interested, but I won't make a move without data. As Lilevo noted, you can drive to the dyno, remove the 8 bolts and nuts, pull the front driveshaft, hit the CDL, and do your thing. Of course, you can also drive there and home with CDL locked with the front driveshaft out (you won't have ABS, but no worries otherwise).

Keep up the good work. Cheers,

Jon
 
I do plan on doing the dyno test. Never disagreed with anyones's suggestion for a dyno. Only reason I have not done it yet is because I did not know that you can drive with just front or rear wheels. But I am not in any rush either because this is not a priority for me. I built this kit just to upgrade my rig but if I can give others options to more power at a low cost, then why not sell them. I have also only tried smaller turbos for quicker spool. I'm sure I can push much more hp's if I go larger but then I would lose bottom end torque. Once i have the dyno numbers and I already know I have a reliable setup here, with the prices I have listed, $3500 and up installed, it is a no brainer when compared to other systems. So once I have the dyno done, hopefully the numbers will speak for themselves.
 
I had a GT35R running a Turbonetics cast log manifold on my LX450 with eBay FMIC, stock inj/MAF/Tuning and with 6psi it ripped. No issues in over 10K miles before I sold it. Did 135mph in it one night on 33's. 13mpg avg..... not so good.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj80-fzj80...lifted-sliders-bumper-lockers-killer-rig.html

The downpipe was V-banded into the stock cats/exhaust and was super quiet. It was a great truck.

There is so much room in the engine bay..... the less heat lost (energy) before the turbine (faster spooling) the more efficient the system will be. Meaning rear mounts are not as good as a traditional setup overall.
 
gnx7,
you are right about the more heat before getting to the turbine will help in quicker spool. However saying "rear mounts are not as good as a traditional setup overall" is your opinion. Every application is different and costs vary tremendously. I am not trying to build a quarter mile race truck, that is not what my Cruiser is for. However there are rear mount turbos that have produced well over 1500hp. The rear mount is just another routing method that is much cheaper and easier to install than a conventional turbo setup. It is just different means to the same end, getting more forced air into the intake manifold. And I believe that this setup is working just fine more my needs. If I wanted more power, sure I can install a larger turbo and add more fuel and blah blah blah. Easy and efficient is what I am after here.

Oh and nice build by the way, someone out there is really enjoying himself with that truck.
 
I have been interested in a turbo kit for 20 years. What I want as a 50 year old hunter and avid outdoorsman is Toyota reliable low end power and torque with better fuel economy in this industrial use solid axle 80 series truck! I need silent mud and water resistant power that makes me want to keep my guzzler and have better range on trips! Who has the best setup for this? Cool, quiet, efficient, reliable power
Geologic

image-981314889.webp
 
geologic said:
I have been interested in a turbo kit for 20 years. What I want as a 50 year old hunter and avid outdoorsman is Toyota reliable low end power and torque with better fuel economy in this industrial use solid axle 80 series truck! I need silent mud and water resistant power that makes me want to keep my guzzler and have better range on trips! Who has the best setup for this? Cool, quiet, efficient, reliable power
Geologic
Click to expand...

Take a look at my turbo thread. It has every piece of info and data possible. If you want a lower rpm powerband then I ended up with just use a smaller turbo.
 
lilevo said:
Take a look at my turbo thread. It has every piece of info and data possible. If you want a lower rpm powerband then I ended up with just use a smaller turbo.
Click to expand...

Lilevo, I think you missed the part where he asks for cool, quiet, efficient, and better fuel economy.
 
No power adder is cool, they all produce heat. If he wants quiet then run a smaller exhaust or larger muffler.

And fuel economy should be the same or better.

If he is doing any kind of wheeling or mudding I don't think a rear mounted setup is a good idea.
 
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