Events/Trails DIY Turbo V1.0, Boosted 80 = Happiness (1 Viewer)

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Does anyone know a mechanical dizzy that will work on the FZ? Got an idea, and access to one cheap..hmm
 
Getting close to ordering all the parts for the DIY Turbo Kit as well as parts for local members that are interested in the complete install. Just want to get an idea if there are more people local that would like this kit installed or if you rather have one shipped to you. I am hoping to have them ready within another 6 weeks. So far the prices for the complete install will start at $3500 and go up depending on what add ons you choose, intercooler, high flow cat, gauges,etc. DIY kits will start at $2k which will need a welder and pipe bender or your just your local muffler shop. So give me an idea if I should proceed in spending more time and money into this or not.
 
Are you going to offer some before and after dyno runs:confused:
 
This one will fit - 19100-66010 - it's the dissy for the 1FZF engine which was sold in the FZJ73.


Nice. So..where this relates to the current thread...should have said before, is I was daydreaming of the same setup but using propane to eliminate all the wiring mess, and really turn that boost up!! :cheers:
 
Are you going to offer some before and after dyno runs:confused:

I was planning on it but I can not find anyone nearby with a 4 wheel dyno. Only SP Engineering comes to mind which is about a 2 hour drive each way. Still looking.
 
I was planning on it but I can not find anyone nearby with a 4 wheel dyno. Only SP Engineering comes to mind which is about a 2 hour drive each way. Still looking.

Pull the front driveshaft, lock the CDLand let her rip on the dyno. If you don't have a CDL, go to the junkyard and grab a hazard switch. Done!
 
You don't even have to go to a junkyard. Put it in low, get the diff lock light. Pull the fuse, but it back in high.

So do the shafts have to be removed? Confused here...
 
I have a CDL button already
 
Yes the front shaft has to be removed. If you already have the diff lock button it's just a matter of dropping the front shaft and pushing the button.


So do the shafts have to be removed? Confused here...
 
Hey Scottryana, can you please post the link to your pre-turbo acceleration video so that we can get a reference point to compare my video to.
 
Gotcha, no worries..
 
I overlaid the two videos, in imovie and there is a 2 sec difference from 15mph-60mph. 2KCruisers is 12.2, my truck is 14 seconds. Lilevo's truck with a more traditional turbo layout, and some tweaking did it twice as fast in 6.7 seconds. Not super scientific but there you go.

So that they are all in the same place:

Stock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRG0WUj8BMw

2KCruiser's Rear mount, at the current settings ~6.5lbs boost:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zW_62C-kgNc

Lilevo's, turbo manifold, injectors and tune:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=US&client=mv-google&hl=en&v=cY9eNjcbxJE&feature=plcp&nomobile=1
 
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Nice video links Scott, thanks. I will be mounting the larger Turbonetics Turbo next week if time permits and turning up the boost to 9 or 10psi and see how much a difference it will make. Will record another video of getting on the freeway to show acceleration to higher speeds.
 
Did you get your AFR solution installed? Just a gauge or can you log it? Since you're using the stock computer I would be a little worried about high afr's in closed loop

Also at 10psi with a big turbo you might be past the point of MAF saturation. And have to go to the larger MAF housing like we told lilevo to do. If you haven't read his thread, it's a good read, even though the turbo placement is different he has faced some of the same issues you will face as you add more boost.
 
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