I finished the Timing belt, and thought I'd share some observations in case someone is thinking of doing this without a FSM like me.
I don't think the FSM is necessary if you've done a timing belt job before (I only had the FSM links above but didn't need them).
First remove the radiator, shroud and fan assembly. Then remove every thats in the way of the timing belt (self explanatory once your in there but do not remove the belt just yet).
The alternator will slide off without removing the power steering pump. If yours will not slide off simply remove the stud that holds it on the block - it’s faster than removing the PS pump.
It’ll go fairly fast until you get to the fan bracket & AC pump. I removed all 4 bolts and slid the pump forward to allow the fan bracket to be removed. The
Tab Spressomon mentioned bending actually simplifies reinstalling the pump, by helping support the front of the pump as you align/bolt it up.
Now here’s where you make everything align correctly before you remove the T belt.
You should only have the crank pulley & it’s dust cover remaining.
Now use a ratchet and rotate until the two cam gears have the marks pointing to the “T” marked on the heads (don’t use the other mark).
You’ll know it’s correct when the crank timing mark is pointing to the nub at the 1 o’clock position on the dust cover. This is the 50* after top dead center (ATDC) that is referenced in the FSM and other posts. Some information says to point the timing mark to the bolt in the idler pulley - that moves the cam timing marks off a bit like in the
pictures here. IMO it's easier to have marks lining up than some random spot, as this will be a good sanity check during the installation.
I didn’t need anything fancy for remove the crank pulley, just zapped it with my impact.
You’ll notice the timing mark is on the bottom around the 7 o’clock position. I used a paint pen to mark the gear to another little nub on the block. This makes it easy to spot any movement of the crank.
I had no issues with the cam gears rolling off their mark after the belt was removed. I inadvertently caused the L cam to roll off the mark (a bunch) trying to fit the belt. I Just bumped it with a wrench.
When I fitted the new belt I was off the mark (by one tooth) at the crank gear. I bumped the L cam gear until all three marks were happy.
Note the extra marks on the crank gear will center between the threaded hole and the key way. You’ll know it’s correct when every mark is pointing at something.
Triple check everything before pulling the pin on the tensioner, now
temporally install the crank pulley and rotate the engine a couple of revolutions to verify everything is kosher. Lastly don’t be alarmed when your painted marks on the new belt don’t match any more- it’s normal.
Now re-install everything, It’s that easy.
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but think most did. 
- finished it up just before Cruise Moab. It was the second H20 pump first one done 1t 100k - my 180K pump was puking out the bottom. Not severe - but enough I didn't even think twice about swaping it out. I'll post picks later.
