DIY timing belt & water pump (1 Viewer)

[DMX84]

I'm needing to replace my timing belt and plan on doing it myself.
Since the wife isn't working, there's no need to have the dealer do it out of necessity since we needed 2 vehicles. (wife not working = no extra $ either)

I had the pump replaced on the last t-belt job, and after some searching I seen some skipped that the first time. I'm looking at the possibility skipping mine this time, I'll give mine a look-over and decide, but it's already got 109k on it and the t-belt.
But wanted to see show everyones pumps have held up.
Dean

 

[Travis351]

I got over 180k out of my first water pump. It was leaking a little, but not enough to show a drop in level in the reservoir. I stressed a little about it when I got close to 180k. Kinda like I am now with the original starter at 219k.

 

[NMuzj100]

Dean - What's your total mileage now ? My guess is you'll be fine but with cruiserdan so close the pump's not much extra. ~$80 IIRC.

 

[ginericLC]

You are doing the timing belt again at 109k? Wasn't it just done at 90k?

I'm doing my second one a little early. I'm at 158k. I'm also replacing the idler pulleys. I had a Turbo Diesel Camry that lost a timing belt right after it was replaced due to a bad idler pulley. So now every other time I do a timing belt I also do new pulleys.

 

[Rascal]

Water Pump = $107.30 - Just got one from CDan.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

The water pump research I have done in the past shows the average pump starts leaking around 125k-150k. Keep in mind the FSM states if the TB comes in contact with water or oil it should be replace at that time.
I would be looking very closely at the pulleys, seals, and tensioner if it was my 2nd TB. For me at 129K it was necessary to replace 2 pulleys and 1 bearing along with the TB and WP.

 

[DMX84]

You are doing the timing belt again at 109k? Wasn't it just done at 90k?

I'm doing my second one a little early. I'm at 158k. I'm also replacing the idler pulleys. I had a Turbo Diesel Camry that lost a timing belt right after it was replaced due to a bad idler pulley. So now every other time I do a timing belt I also do new pulleys.

Sorry for the confusion, I meant to say I have 109K on the the 2nd belt now. My current ODO reading is 195K.

 

[DMX84]

The water pump research I have done in the past shows the average pump starts leaking around 125k-150k. Keep in mind the FSM states if the TB comes in contact with water or oil it should be replace at that time.
I would be looking very closely at the pulleys, seals, and tensioner if it was my 2nd TB. For me at 129K it was necessary to replace 2 pulleys and 1 bearing along with the TB and WP.

Phil, do you have an estimated price for everything? Was it hard to do?
Thanks,
Dean

 

[DMX84]

Can this be done with out a FSM? I'm thinking as long as I get the timing marks lined up before I remove the belt it should be straight forward? Am I correct?
DMX

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Can this be done with out a FSM? I'm thinking as long as I get the timing marks lined up before I remove the belt it should be straight forward? Am I correct?
DMX

Personally I would not do it without FSM. The FSM give you good guidelines for inspection and test on replaceable parts. Also the FSM gives you something to reference when you get to the point of "didn't that go there" questions. FWIW I alway take digital picture of the engine bay prior to starting.

I dont remember my cost but cost will vary depending on what you end up replacing. IIRC along with the T-belt I also replaced both pulleys, 1 bearing, and the W/P.

 

[DMX84]

Personally I would not do it without FSM. The FSM give you good guidelines for inspection and test on replaceable parts. Also the FSM gives you something to reference when you get to the point of "didn't that go there" questions. FWIW I alway take digital picture of the engine bay prior to starting.

I dont remember my cost but cost will vary depending on what you end up replacing. IIRC along with the T-belt I also replaced both pulleys, 1 bearing, and the W/P.

I plan on taking pictures too just in case. There are two threads in the FAQ that have good pictures also. I just wish it has more technical info.

With all my searching and totaling all the various parts I'm expecting to pay as much as $550. I'm not sure all the prices had the MUD discount, but think most did.

Can you tell me what the FSM says to do to get everything timed correct prior to disassembly. I'm sure it probably the crank timing mark, but just want to make sure.
(This is probably the single most important step in the process.)

 

[DMX84]

Can anyone provide information on what marks need to lined up before starting?

 

[LSUfj]

one mark for each cam gear mark, and 3 on the crank gear (before you put the pulley back on) - one for the key in the crank, and two that go on each side of a hole in the crank gear.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Search, there's a free FSM you can download from someplace like pdftown. It's for an '04, but the engine info would be the same.

 

[Mxndrnks]

post #2

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/375561-pdf-download-lc.html

 

[Utahfj62]

The water pump research I have done in the past shows the average pump starts leaking around 125k-150k. Keep in mind the FSM states if the TB comes in contact with water or oil it should be replace at that time.
I would be looking very closely at the pulleys, seals, and tensioner if it was my 2nd TB. For me at 129K it was necessary to replace 2 pulleys and 1 bearing along with the TB and WP.

I just did my 180K timing belt and water pump -- finished it up just before Cruise Moab. It was the second H20 pump first one done 1t 100k - my 180K pump was puking out the bottom. Not severe - but enough I didn't even think twice about swaping it out. I'll post picks later.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I just did my 180K timing belt and water pump -- finished it up just before Cruise Moab. It was the second H20 pump first one done 1t 100k - my 180K pump was puking out the bottom. Not severe - but enough I didn't even think twice about swaping it out. I'll post picks later.

Thanks for data point and good for you catching it before it was a problem.
Was the 1st WP you changed leaking?

 

[SWUtah]

I had a 99 Landcruiser with 62K miles and did the timing belt and water pump because it was a AZ vehicle and it had been over 8 years. The water pump had started leaking and the timing belt was cracking, it would not of made it to 90K miles so years and heat make a difference just like miles.

 

[DMX84]

Thanks for all the good info and the link for the FSM. I plan on tearing into it this weekend. I’ll report back on the status of my water pump.

 

[DMX84]

I finished the Timing belt, and thought I'd share some observations in case someone is thinking of doing this without a FSM like me.
I don't think the FSM is necessary if you've done a timing belt job before (I only had the FSM links above but didn't need them).

First remove the radiator, shroud and fan assembly. Then remove every thats in the way of the timing belt (self explanatory once your in there but do not remove the belt just yet).

The alternator will slide off without removing the power steering pump. If yours will not slide off simply remove the stud that holds it on the block - it’s faster than removing the PS pump.

It’ll go fairly fast until you get to the fan bracket & AC pump. I removed all 4 bolts and slid the pump forward to allow the fan bracket to be removed. The Tab Spressomon mentioned bending actually simplifies reinstalling the pump, by helping support the front of the pump as you align/bolt it up.

Now here’s where you make everything align correctly before you remove the T belt.

You should only have the crank pulley & it’s dust cover remaining.
Now use a ratchet and rotate until the two cam gears have the marks pointing to the “T” marked on the heads (don’t use the other mark).
You’ll know it’s correct when the crank timing mark is pointing to the nub at the 1 o’clock position on the dust cover. This is the 50* after top dead center (ATDC) that is referenced in the FSM and other posts. Some information says to point the timing mark to the bolt in the idler pulley - that moves the cam timing marks off a bit like in the pictures here. IMO it's easier to have marks lining up than some random spot, as this will be a good sanity check during the installation.

I didn’t need anything fancy for remove the crank pulley, just zapped it with my impact.

You’ll notice the timing mark is on the bottom around the 7 o’clock position. I used a paint pen to mark the gear to another little nub on the block. This makes it easy to spot any movement of the crank.

I had no issues with the cam gears rolling off their mark after the belt was removed. I inadvertently caused the L cam to roll off the mark (a bunch) trying to fit the belt. I Just bumped it with a wrench.
When I fitted the new belt I was off the mark (by one tooth) at the crank gear. I bumped the L cam gear until all three marks were happy.

Note the extra marks on the crank gear will center between the threaded hole and the key way. You’ll know it’s correct when every mark is pointing at something.

Triple check everything before pulling the pin on the tensioner, now
temporally install the crank pulley and rotate the engine a couple of revolutions to verify everything is kosher. Lastly don’t be alarmed when your painted marks on the new belt don’t match any more- it’s normal.

Now re-install everything, It’s that easy.