Probably since the increase reliability. That said, mine were fine when changed at ~165K...ymmv. The cost/benefit ratio may vary depending on the driver's state of mine. My old T's are in the back of the LX with other spares.
DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter paflytyer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I think you got your money's worth. So now that the SS T's will last forever how long are the rubber hoses they plug into good for?
Probably not as long as corrugated stainless tubing...but sooner or later the cost/benefit thing raises it's head.
Steve
dogdaysindurham
SILVER Star
What is the OD of the hose once connected to the T's? I found some of the worm gear constant force clamps also at McMaster. http://www.mcmaster.com/#constant-tension-hose-clamps/=vuo20n About 7 to 8 bucks per clamp. Interestingly the OEM style clamps (spring band hose clamps) are pack of 10 for 8 bucks, Mcmaster suggests they are single use items.
Springs in a constant position do not fatigue, unless they go past their yield limit. What is wearing to springs is constant back and forth motion...as an example off the top of my head, I'd use magazines in a firearm. I'd send you measurements now but
took the LX to work today.Steve
Last edited:
dogdaysindurham
SILVER Star
hankinid,
Yah that's what I figured, but curious to see the disclaimer that McMaster included for that style constant clamp. The have a neat little tool that is designed to open and close it clamps. Haha, another thing to add to the tool box I guess. I guess these are the same style used to whole the CV boots together.
Yah that's what I figured, but curious to see the disclaimer that McMaster included for that style constant clamp. The have a neat little tool that is designed to open and close it clamps. Haha, another thing to add to the tool box I guess. I guess these are the same style used to whole the CV boots together.
Does anyone have a diagram that shows the correct orientation of the 6 new hoses relative to the "T" so that I can pre-assemble those 2 coolant line assemblies prior to installation in the engine bay?
Specifically the part numbers:
87245-6A180
87245-6A210
87245-6A190
87245-6A220
87245-6A201
99556-20200
I'd be curious to know the correct OEM P/N for the hose clamps too if anyone has it!!!
-G
Is this what you need?
Oh HECK YEAH!!!!
Nice, thanks! I need to cross-reference some of those 6-digit alphanumeric codes to the more traditional 10-digit numeric part numbers but that should be pretty simple. From the looks of it, ALL of the hoses are clamped with the same part number? (some clamps aren't called out with a p/n in that diagram).....
I appreciate the help. Thanks!..
-G
Nice, thanks! I need to cross-reference some of those 6-digit alphanumeric codes to the more traditional 10-digit numeric part numbers but that should be pretty simple. From the looks of it, ALL of the hoses are clamped with the same part number? (some clamps aren't called out with a p/n in that diagram).....
I appreciate the help. Thanks!..
-G
Found this on a website. Pay attention to where it notes "W/ REAR HEATER"
PERFECT!
Yes, I notice that there are two versions of some parts due to a manufacturing change in early 1999, and also the parts are a bit different if the LC does not come with a rear heater option.
I've annotated the first exploded diagram for my 2001 LC, so when all those little Toyota plastic parts bags arrive I should be able to assemble the puzzle!!!
Thanks again!
-G
Just had a T break in the way into my garage at work, so I ended up replacing the hoses and the Ts. Not sure if they ever have been replaced in 270K miles....
@GregLCA, it seems like the claps on the longest hoses in the middle of the Ts (87256C, 87255A) are smaller than the other 4 clamps
Not sure it matters, but just fyi.
This job sucks to do remotely, lots of automotive yoga.
As others have mentioned, move the OEM clamps, cut the old hoses where they attach to the pipes, and replace with your pre assembled hoses and Ts.
@GregLCA, it seems like the claps on the longest hoses in the middle of the Ts (87256C, 87255A) are smaller than the other 4 clamps
Not sure it matters, but just fyi.
This job sucks to do remotely, lots of automotive yoga.
As others have mentioned, move the OEM clamps, cut the old hoses where they attach to the pipes, and replace with your pre assembled hoses and Ts.
Bummer.
I just ordered Qty 12 of the #96136-52101 hose clamps assuming that they were all identical.
If you come across a part # for the other OEM clamp used for these assemblies, please post it up!
-G
The "T" side clamps are smaller, as is the "T" and the hose going into the "T".[USER=105260 said:
What helped a bunch were some long Harbor Freight (yeah, I realize they're not Snap-On) needle-nose pliers...about $14 bucks with the coupon. They're in straight, 22.5, 45, and 90 degree noses. It took me <45 minutes start to finish.
I also keep worm drive clamps in the spares box, just for s's and g's.
Steve
Just did this job over the weekend. For the record, two of the hoses I needed for my ’04 were different than listed further up in this thread (which I assume were for a ’98 – ’02). According to the dealer, based on my VIN, I needed these:
T-fittings
2 x 87248-60460
Hoses
87245-6A180
87245-6A210
87245-6A190
87245-6A220
87245-6A800
99556-20155
I also intended to replace the hose clamps. Like GregLCA posted above, the online parts diagram makes it look like they are all 96136-52101. But those are the ones for the four smaller diameter connections off the "bottom" of the T. With the hoses installed, the clamps would not even fit over the slight bulge in the hoses created by the barb on the T on the larger diameter junctions. So, for those eight connections, I just re-used my existing clamps - so I don’t know the part number for them.
Like many others reported, one of my Ts seemed to be in good condition but the other one cracked in two when I was persuading the hoses loose (’04, 133.5k, dealer maintained by the book, VA and GA truck).
Easy job and not messy if you have something ready to catch the coolant when you disconnect the lowermost connections.
T-fittings
2 x 87248-60460
Hoses
87245-6A180
87245-6A210
87245-6A190
87245-6A220
87245-6A800
99556-20155
I also intended to replace the hose clamps. Like GregLCA posted above, the online parts diagram makes it look like they are all 96136-52101. But those are the ones for the four smaller diameter connections off the "bottom" of the T. With the hoses installed, the clamps would not even fit over the slight bulge in the hoses created by the barb on the T on the larger diameter junctions. So, for those eight connections, I just re-used my existing clamps - so I don’t know the part number for them.
Like many others reported, one of my Ts seemed to be in good condition but the other one cracked in two when I was persuading the hoses loose (’04, 133.5k, dealer maintained by the book, VA and GA truck).
Easy job and not messy if you have something ready to catch the coolant when you disconnect the lowermost connections.
Yeah,
I had the same experience when I was trying to "prep" the new parts for the local dealership to install..... Got all the T's and hoses pre-assembled to match the diagram (and what I saw in the actual engine bay) but I just couldn't get the clamps to fit on certain hoses. IIRC the orifices on the T are two different dimensions (slightly different) so it stands to reason that the clamps would also need to be slightly different to clamp them effectively.
Fortunately for me, I was in already for the waterpump/timing belt service....so my coolant was already completely drained. I'm sure that made the job easier for my tech. He commented that he'd never been asked to swap out the T's before, and acted like it was a pretty weird request. But then again, I live in a small town where there are probably only 2 other LandCruisers anyway.
My "takeoffs" looked pretty decent for 130,000 miles (not as brittle and fragile as stuff I've seen posted on this site) but then again.... the peace of mind of having another 10 years of trouble-free driving made it worth the expense.
-G
Replaced these with the linked amazon.com brass Ts a while back. The only thing I'll add is that the brass Ts have three equal-sized outlets vice the OEM Ts that have a smaller diameter lower outlet necessitating for me the utilization of a screw-type hose clamp on that outlet instead of reusing the stock tension clamp. My ~113K all-southwest truck's Ts looked like new after removal FWIW.
Before:
After:
Dan
Before:
After:
Dan
Dan - Thank you so much for posting the photos and the tip about the clamps. The information you shared is what makes Mud such a great resource and community.
I have exactly the same "T's" (purchased from Amazon last week) waiting in the garage. I have about 96K on my 100 so it's good news that your "T's" were in good shape. Hopefully, I'll have mine installed in a couple of weeks. I'll post my results too. Thanks again!
Another choice for 100 series owners, who live in a warm climate, is to disconnect the water feed to the rear heater. Instead of replacing the two "T" pieces just use two short straight pipes in their place. This should be a more reliable solution and will provide a quicker fix for a roadside repair. If you are a bit OCD and must have a genuine Toyota solution then purchase the heater hoses made for the 100 variant without a rear heater. Look at the parts for the Hawaiian or Middle East models. The part numbers should be:
87245-6A070 HOSE, HEATER WATER, INLET A (Drivers side on an LHD 100)
87245-6A060 HOSE, HEATER WATER, OUTLET A (Passenger side on an LHD 100)
Might be as well to change the hose clips (96136-52101) while you are at it. Could be false economy to reuse the old ones.
87245-6A070 HOSE, HEATER WATER, INLET A (Drivers side on an LHD 100)
87245-6A060 HOSE, HEATER WATER, OUTLET A (Passenger side on an LHD 100)
Might be as well to change the hose clips (96136-52101) while you are at it. Could be false economy to reuse the old ones.
Here's mine after 105k; super brittle and completely crumbled as I was taking them out...anyone reading this should definitely do it if they haven't been done.
NOW, the interesting part: I used the brass replacement T's already shown in the thread, BIG Thanks to DLong for mentioning the need for hose clamps on the bottom of each, however they are leaking at the top clamps...has anyone else had issues with this? I'm gonna buy more hose clamps tomorrow and just replace all of the existing clamps which I'm hoping solves the issue...
Anyone think it could be that the hoses are somehow stretched and need to be replaced? They're in great shape and do not feel or look dry. Replacing the hoses isn't a big deal except that dealerships are all closed on Sundays in Texas...and if that's not neat enough this is my wife's car and I would really like for her to drive it to work on Monday!!
If anyone else has had similar issues I'd appreciate your input.
NOW, the interesting part: I used the brass replacement T's already shown in the thread, BIG Thanks to DLong for mentioning the need for hose clamps on the bottom of each, however they are leaking at the top clamps...has anyone else had issues with this? I'm gonna buy more hose clamps tomorrow and just replace all of the existing clamps which I'm hoping solves the issue...
Anyone think it could be that the hoses are somehow stretched and need to be replaced? They're in great shape and do not feel or look dry. Replacing the hoses isn't a big deal except that dealerships are all closed on Sundays in Texas...and if that's not neat enough this is my wife's car and I would really like for her to drive it to work on Monday!!
If anyone else has had similar issues I'd appreciate your input.
