DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (1 Viewer)

[Tareq]

Hmmmm. Interesting.

FWIW, if you decide to keep your metal T setup, you might want to look into some European hose clamps. They're also worm drive, but they don't have gear holes that go through the clamp band, and they have rolled edges to prevent the band from digging into the hoses like the ones in the photo can do (the "Breeze" type.) The brand I've used with great success is Norma (example: https://www.amazon.com/NORMA-012667...9IlCOluBajd-F0jXnUkraRQ0GFUhza8oaAkvbEALw_wcB )

Thank you!
I will keep the metal Ts, but knowing what I know now, I would have just used OEM for direct fitment and they last 90k!! At 3k miles a year, it will take me 30 years to replace them

Took the hose out, looks good, no puncture, they are thicker than I thought, but it was loose so I put duct tape and retightened it.

I will replace all clamps with wider ones in the near future..

 

[Jack90210]

View attachment 3559587

https://www.amazon.ca/Four-Seasons-84543-Heater-Fitting/dp/B000DCNGIS/ref=pd_bxgy_img_d_sccl_2/143-5722662-5152316?pd_rd_w=L9ay7&content-id=amzn1.sym.e50138e4-698f-4593-8c1e-cb59758ab150&pf_rd_p=e50138e4-698f-4593-8c1e-cb59758ab150&pf_rd_r=HP91X9M1WQ3NTWKF65G1&pd_rd_wg=H7oRo&pd_rd_r=23add738-bd50-46fe-9771-eb5f8ad0a79c&pd_rd_i=B000DCNGIS&psc=1

I used theses in 2019 and squeezed the clamps hard on the hoses.
2 days ago i did a 3 gallon pink coolant drain and fill.
this morning there was coolant leaking under the car, later at the office too.
The bottom hose of the Ts (in the hot side) looks ripped under the clamp, even though I didn't squeeze it further since 2019.


The hose might be deteriorating due to age, but anyone thinking of using the metal Ts, make sure you find a size matching the Toyota Ts so you dont have to over tighten the clamps.

THIS is exactly why I continue to use OEM tees: they are compatible with the hoses and the superior OEM constant-tension clamps.

 

[Jack90210]

I think this is what happened to me + the hose might be old too!
And I turned on the heater for front and back vents to circulate new coolant the night before I parked it and found the leak in the morning.

The coolant always circulates through the heater cores, regardless of the temperature/fan setting.

 

[Tareq]

THIS is exactly why I continue to use OEM tees: they are compatible with the hoses and the superior OEM constant-tension clamps.

looking back, I should have bought OEM plastic Ts or find the correct size metal.

I picked these SAE 8 clamps from HomeDepot yesterday and doubled the side that was seeping coolant slowly during the last 5 years.
It was drawing the equivalent of coolant in the reservoir from max to just below min.
That's approximately 20k miles in 5 years.

 

[buddysharp]

Replaced leaking driver's side tee this evening. With 235K, driver's side had been leaking. Based on all the stories, I decided to try an experiment. I replaced all 3 hoses and clamps; all OEM. For removal, I experimented and found it pretty easy to use a very sharp razor knife to cut through the 3 hoses and remove the tee in one piece; one near the riser off the block, near the firewall and near the down pipe to the heater core. As I was about to toss it into a bucket, the tee snapped so glad I dodged the bullet on dropping pieces of tee down the hoses. Put all 3 new hoses on to the tee, slid the constant tension clamps on (oem has a cute little red clip that's fun to remove), took a little dip of coolant for lubricant, and slid the whole assembly into place. Snapped the clips, put the little wire clamp back on, and cracked a beer. Easy-peasy. Going to do the other side same way, re-fill and try to burp the system. Hope this helps!

 

[2001LC]

I use a hooked rasor, being careful to not nick, cut or score pipe. I replace only first (from water bypass out) short 90 degree hose that I cut off, unless other swollen. I use the old OEM clamps, replacing only non OEM.

 

[buddysharp]

I use a hooked rasor, being careful to not nick, cut or score pipe. I replace only first (from water bypass out) short 90 degree hose that I cut off, unless other swollen. I use the old OEM clamps, replacing only non OEM...

Lesson learned. I think I had noticed your comment on the hook razor elsewhere and wish my foggy memory had worked. I did, indeed, score the hose pipes. Dammit. The worst was the passenger side firewall pipe, on the top, but it fortunately doesn't go all the way to the end of the pipe. I played with the new OEM clamps and the originals for quite a while, trying to figure which was best. I ended up replacing them, but I'd bet a buck the originals have more strength than the replacements. Time will tell if I created leaks and will post back if I do.

 

[Tareq]

looking back, I should have bought OEM plastic Ts or find the correct size metal.

View attachment 3571158

I picked these SAE 8 clamps from HomeDepot yesterday and doubled the side that was seeping coolant slowly during the last 5 years.
It was drawing the equivalent of coolant in the reservoir from max to just below min.
That's approximately 20k miles in 5 years.

Unfortunately with this setup, there still small leaks and 1 hose might be pierced from over tightening, not urgent, but might take at least 2-3 years to empty the coolant reservoir. However, I learned my lesson and got the list of parts to turn everything back to OEM and think might just replace everything as they are over 20 years old anyways

87245-6A180
87245-6A190
99556-20155
87245-6A220
87245-6A210
87245-6A800
Hose clamp (8x) 96134-42100
Clip (4x): 90467-19022
OEM heater tees (2x): 87248-60460

Local Lexus/Toyota charges around $318 CAD, but Amayama charges around $83 !!

Anyone ordered from Amayama can kindly share experience on delivery ? Thank you!

 

[Tareq]

Amayama order took 3 weeks from order placement to delivery, with tracking!

Everything back to OEM now, zero leaks!!

Before & After photos!

 

[OwnerCS]

I've been using a set of Hose Grip Pliers for about 14 years now with good success.

These also com in handy for releasing electrical plugs when the trigger lock is hard to reach.

 

[UZJ100LC]

This is obvious to most i'm sure, but for anyone doing this as a first time DIYer: deflate your front tires to get an inch or two more height for easier access.

 

[whitec13]

This is obvious to most i'm sure, but for anyone doing this as a first time DIYer: deflate your front tires to get an inch or two more height for easier access.

Or find a nice incline to park on. My driveway run up was the perfect angle and helped usher some fluid out of the way too.

 

[Mike NXP]

This is obvious to most i'm sure, but for anyone doing this as a first time DIYer: deflate your front tires to get an inch or two more height for easier access.

Seems less time consuming to just wear high heels

 

[zgfiredude]

I cut a 2x4 to fit cross ways from fender to fender at the mounting bolts, put an old towel under it, as a cushion and to spread out any load, where it crosses the intake manifold, and then put an old piece of carpeted 3/4" plywood from the 2x4 to the radiator core support. Step stool up and lay on the plywood and you can see and reach whatever you need near the firewall.

 

[Tareq]

Cleaned the aluminum Ts, will keep them for emergencies, however, I was wondering if I could have used industrial sealant tape to make them leak proof??

>>> sealant tape

 

[Mike NXP]

Cleaned the aluminum Ts, will keep them for emergencies, however, I was wondering if I could have used industrial sealant tape to make them leak proof??

>>> sealant tape

View attachment 3702663

anything's possible but that's not necessary..... It's possible to just have the system perform with the proper parts..... The screw style clamps + those t's from your previous post seem to be a bad combo.....Stock plastic t's or the upgraded brass part that @cruiserpatch sell , paired with OEM hoses and clamps , won't leak and will last 150k or longer without any signs of leaking

 

[Tareq]

anything's possible but that's not necessary..... It's possible to just have the system perform with the proper parts..... The screw style clamps + those t's from your previous post seem to be a bad combo.....Stock plastic t's or the upgraded brass part that @cruiserpatch sell , paired with OEM hoses and clamps , won't leak and will last 150k or longer without any signs of leaking

Yes, I learned the hard way, so everything is back to OEM now, zero leaks, but I wish the sealant idea crossed my mind back then ...

 

[OwnerCS]

Since I've only used the rear heater one time to see that it worked. I took the heater T delete option. Winters here are not severe enough to require use. Also, this eliminates replacement of the underbody heater hoses. I capped off the hoses that travel under the cabin. Rear seats have been removed to make way for storage drawers.

 

[Jack90210]

anything's possible but that's not necessary..... It's possible to just have the system perform with the proper parts..... The screw style clamps + those t's from your previous post seem to be a bad combo.....Stock plastic t's or the upgraded brass part that @cruiserpatch sell , paired with OEM hoses and clamps , won't leak and will last 150k or longer without any signs of leaking

This 100%.

 

[Eddy20]

Buy the tees from Dealer or Amazon?