The heater hose pipe t’s which are the topic of this thread.
DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter paflytyer
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I went with brass---
As we say in the South... Everybody Loves them some Sweat Tees!
There are a lot of different Tees in this thread, some collect them all! It's a thing!
I was contemplating if I needed to change the tees. I had them in the garage with the hoses.
When I checked them they looked ok.
But I wasn't comfortable leavibg them as they have been in the system for 295k km and 19 years.
Glad I changed them.
When I checked them they looked ok.
But I wasn't comfortable leavibg them as they have been in the system for 295k km and 19 years.
Glad I changed them.
a just replaced what I assume were the originals on my 260k 2003. Both broke while I was removing them. The job was a much bigger pain in the butt than I was expecting. Pretty much all of the hose clamps were extremely hard to access because of the angles they were locked into the hoses.
I just wanted to say "thanks" to the MUD forums. I've had my first TLC100 for almost a month now, and while I'm NOT mechanically inclined, I am wiling to learn and figure things out.
Despite my trepidation from lack of experience, I grabbed some curved needle nose pliers, towels, step ladder, silicone spray, and new T's, and I did the heater T's on my 2005 with 138k mi. At initial inspection I thought they looked in good shape, but just to be safe, I was careful with removal to not break off pieces in the hoses.
Well, the right side one came out whole, so I thought maybe they'd been changed before, but as you can see from the pics, the left side one absolutely crumbled. Got the new ones in without issue and things seem good.
Whole process cost me $25 and 45 minutes of my afternoon. Not bad.
So thanks to the community for sharing your knowledge and experience with noobs like me!
Despite my trepidation from lack of experience, I grabbed some curved needle nose pliers, towels, step ladder, silicone spray, and new T's, and I did the heater T's on my 2005 with 138k mi. At initial inspection I thought they looked in good shape, but just to be safe, I was careful with removal to not break off pieces in the hoses.
Well, the right side one came out whole, so I thought maybe they'd been changed before, but as you can see from the pics, the left side one absolutely crumbled. Got the new ones in without issue and things seem good.
Whole process cost me $25 and 45 minutes of my afternoon. Not bad.
So thanks to the community for sharing your knowledge and experience with noobs like me!
Just wanted to thank you guys for helping me out, AGAIN. And, to add my contribution, here is the dreaded heater hose T that I knocked out to 3D print:
www.thingiverse.com
That's just off the printer. I need to clean it up a bit with some sand paper.
No telling how long mine was leaking, but it was getting a lot worse, with a small puddle underneath at about the firewall. The original T came out looking about like willmtaylor's, above. I made this one a little thicker. The OpenSCAD source code is included in the thingie, so you can hack it up however you want.
A Murray 84543 T from about anywhere is slightly too small, but should work with some good quality worm hose clamps.
Toyota LX470 Landcruiser Heater hose T 87248-60460 by DrHess
Toyota heater hose T replacement for part number 87248-60460, used in LX470, Land Cruisers, probably more. Print on back with supports. OpenSCAD source code included.
www.thingiverse.com
That's just off the printer. I need to clean it up a bit with some sand paper.
No telling how long mine was leaking, but it was getting a lot worse, with a small puddle underneath at about the firewall. The original T came out looking about like willmtaylor's, above. I made this one a little thicker. The OpenSCAD source code is included in the thingie, so you can hack it up however you want.
A Murray 84543 T from about anywhere is slightly too small, but should work with some good quality worm hose clamps.
I just finally replaced my tees and hoses yesterday. I found a topside creeper on fb marketplace and that definitely helped on this job.
All in all it wouldn’t be a bad job, except I bought the hoses, tees, and clamps from Wits End, and the kit includes 12 of the same size clamp. I believe it’s the right size clamp for the smaller (vertical) hoses, but it was difficult to get over the larger hoses even with a pair of vise grips holding it fully open. It was extremely difficult to get the hose over the barb on the tees (again, even with a vise grip holding it fully open, open further than the normal open position).
I like everything else I’ve bought from Wits End, and I plan on reaching out to Joey to see if he’s aware of this. I almost said screw it and just changed the tees and left the old hoses and clamps, until I looked up the kit on the website and found it’s $199. After that I decided I better use the whole kit lol.
All in all it wouldn’t be a bad job, except I bought the hoses, tees, and clamps from Wits End, and the kit includes 12 of the same size clamp. I believe it’s the right size clamp for the smaller (vertical) hoses, but it was difficult to get over the larger hoses even with a pair of vise grips holding it fully open. It was extremely difficult to get the hose over the barb on the tees (again, even with a vise grip holding it fully open, open further than the normal open position).
I like everything else I’ve bought from Wits End, and I plan on reaching out to Joey to see if he’s aware of this. I almost said screw it and just changed the tees and left the old hoses and clamps, until I looked up the kit on the website and found it’s $199. After that I decided I better use the whole kit lol.
My same T snapped off in that exact same place. That creeper is cool. Damn, now I have to look for one.
I knocked this job out yesterday morning. I appreciate all of the information in this thread, especially all of the part numbers for the hoses. I'm really glad I had them because it was much easier to cut the hoses to free them from the pipes.
Well this PSA is important...Mine looked brand new but the hot side broke/crumbled into pieces upon removal, some of which now reside in the heater core.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
I need one of these topside creepers!
The metal Murray 84543 T started leaking at one of the junctions. Probably could have tightened the clamp some more, but I decided to just replace all of it. My printed T's cleaned up real nice with a tad bit of sanding and some acetone, but decided to just get the OEM part for <$9 each.
Parts Used.
Dr.Hess' research (Y2K EPC for a 1998 LC):
T's
87248-60460 2 ea
T's to firewall:
Medial hose from T to firewall:
87245-6A180
Lateral hose from T to firewall
87245-6A210
T's down
Medial down hose:
87245-6A170
Laterial down hose:
87245-6A200
T's to motor side:
Medial engine side:
87245-6A190
Lateral engine side:
87245-6A220
Total parts cost: $123.45 with shipping from Conicelli.
The job was a minor PITA.
Parts Used.
Dr.Hess' research (Y2K EPC for a 1998 LC):
T's
87248-60460 2 ea
T's to firewall:
Medial hose from T to firewall:
87245-6A180
Lateral hose from T to firewall
87245-6A210
T's down
Medial down hose:
87245-6A170
Laterial down hose:
87245-6A200
T's to motor side:
Medial engine side:
87245-6A190
Lateral engine side:
87245-6A220
Total parts cost: $123.45 with shipping from Conicelli.
The job was a minor PITA.
hoser
SILVER Star
These have been popping up on eBay for $11/shipped.
Heater Hose Output T Pipes 87248-60460 Fits Toyota LX450 LX470 Sequoya Sienna US | eBay
For LEXUS LX450 1996-1998. For LEXUS LX470 2001-2007. For SIENNA 1998-2007. Radiator Overflow Bottle Coolant Tank Fits Toyota Hilux Vigo 2KD 2005-14 Pickup. Radiator Hose Clip Fit BMW E39 E38 E60 E90 745Li X5 E46 325I 328I 540I 740Il US.
www.ebay.com
After just doing mine this weekend and replacing the hoses. Mine were crumbling. Definitely a job I want to do once for a long while. Shouldve went with steel. The hose were stubborn, so I know they will outlast the oem t's.
I'll be replacing mine soon, does it make sense to just replace the hoses due to the age ?
2002 _ 220k miles
How much coolant will piss out when removing them?
2002 _ 220k miles
How much coolant will piss out when removing them?
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
I think it does make sense to replace the hoses and clamps at the same time. I replaced my T's a few years ago and last year replaced the hose, which were all seeping coolant and were hard as a rock. Hindsight, I should have done it all at the same time.
after 20 years and 220k miles, every hose under your hood needs replacing.
