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DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter paflytyer
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After work today i was successful in removing the t's and hoses. Again it was a pita and both of my hands hurt and i used several kinds of pliers as well as hose clamp pliers.
As i removed them i mocked up the new hoses and t's. This is on my 2006 and the one on the left is drivers side. Tomorrow im gonna try to get them installed.
As i removed them i mocked up the new hoses and t's. This is on my 2006 and the one on the left is drivers side. Tomorrow im gonna try to get them installed.
Where are these two exactly? Are these going to the rear AC?
May be a dumb question.... since you are replacing both Tees and hoses, why not cut the old hoses and tees out then you'll have more room to work the clamps the engine and firewall?
About to do this and cutting off the old seems like the easy way....
Nope, not a dumb question. IMO, it is easier to just cut the hoses off. I did this when I changed mine. I just cut the old hoses with serrated knife. No risk of pieces of the T's falling into the engine. The hoses probably still ok, but I decided to replace them since I am there already.
Pre-assemble the T and hoses in your work bench, then all you need is just install.
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Thanks... That's what I was thinking too.
I bought the gates hoses and four seasons heater Ts from rockauto for $46. I cant think of a good reason to keep 10-19 year old hoses back there and not replace them.
GATES 19082
GATES 18622
FOUR SEASONS 84543 (2)
GATES 19082
GATES 18622
FOUR SEASONS 84543 (2)
To the left of the transfer case along floor, for the rear heat.
Yea i cut the hoses in several places - mostly where they attach to the firewall. but..... as stated its a pita regardless of how many hoses you cut and really the existing hoses werent in the way of positioning pliers to engage the clamps. I guess the frustrating part is keeping the clamps pinched open while simultaneously moving the clamp up the hose.
Got the new hoses and t's installed on the 2006. You can feel the flared end of the hose pipe under the rubber hose and tell where to position the hose clamps but you need a method of precisely placing the clamps. I finally just laid on the top of the engine to get my hands back there which was okay since it hasnt been started in a week.
I changed my heater hose pipe Ts this weekend and I found them to be much easier to replace than I was lead to believe after reading several threads. If you haven't changed these and you are running a high mileage or older 100 Series I recommend you do it soon. Neither was leaking on my LX however, one fell apart as I was loosening the hose clamps the other seemed to be "good" so I'll keep it as a spare.
I really appreciate all the information shared on this forum. it has helped me on more then one occasion!
I really appreciate all the information shared on this forum. it has helped me on more then one occasion!
I planned on doing these but just like everything else I have run out of time. So I asked my trusted shop for a quote to get er done..... $$500-600. I laughed, then thought wow, it really must be that big of a pain to get in there and swap out those hoses and T's
i just did this the other day...literally took me 20 minutes to do. used a small step stool and draped a towel over the driver side fender and leaned over (had to remove plastic engine cover). but then took another 15 minutes adjusting the clamps so to stop any drips. not hard at all with some small channel lock pliers to rotate the clamps for better access.
I had a guy do it, and he charged me one hour of labor, and I supplied the parts, $5-600 seems crazy!
Thanks for the heads up on changing the tees guys. They were brittle as and broke up during the replacement. replaced all the heater hoses at the same time so should never have to look at them for a while. Got my aircon guy who did the job for me to make a brass t replacement and so it should be good to the million kilometre mark. My one owner 2001 VX Ltd 1HDFTE has just clicked over 450,000 km and still really happy with it.
There seemed to be some questions about what was involved with replacing the coolant tee's / labor time / etc. I made a video that out lines the entire process see the link below, hopefully it will clear up any confusion. If you have any questions about it, let me know.
Parts needed for this job:
(1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01
(2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460
Optional, highly recommended parts for this job:
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
Parts needed for this job:
(1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01
(2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460
Optional, highly recommended parts for this job:
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800
(1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
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Great job on the show/tell. Always easier when you can see it done!
I plan to swap those out as well...Ordered a bunch of heater hoses from Rock Auto, and I am fairly certain I received one of those hoses (mold is the same).
I had new brakes put on 2 days before a big fishing trip to Montana, and I'd always "meant" to get to the T's and hoses, and I've had all the parts for months. The brake shop called and said a T was broken, and it just kinda happened... of course I wasn't surprised and promptly brought them the parts and they did it while I waited, 1 hour and $100 to install them... SO glad it went out before my trip, I don't even want to think about what that would have been like to fix on the road at midnight... lesson: DO IT NOW!! they all go out!!
hoser
SILVER Star
I don't think it would be too bad... take the non-broken T and connect the input and output hoses from the engine together. Then find a 14mm bolt somewhere else on the truck (tow hook?) and plug that 3rd end of the T. The stock toolset even has a pair of pliers. If both T-s break, find two 16mm bolts and plug both hoses.
