DIY Rear Lower Control Arms (1 Viewer)

[reznunt]

A couple people asked about the arms I made last year so I thought I'd make a quick DIY post. It was a fun little project that anyone with some basic welding and fab skills can knock out pretty fast. I built them to help solve a vibration issue I had at around 65-70 MPH (and it worked!) and also to replace the wimpy stock arms. I didn't want to shell out $300+ on some prebuilt ones because I usually never have that kind of spare loot laying around. Building them myself allowed me to A) buy the parts piecemeal which was a huge benefit for me, B) make them beefier than anything that's currently available off the shelf, and C) save about 30% over buying them. I haven't had any issues with them over the last 10k miles. Here's how I did it...

Parts
DOM tube - 2" x 0.25", 3 ft
DOM tube - 1.5" x 0.25", 3 ft
(2) Johnny Joints - CE-9114-14
(2) Jam Nuts
(2) Tube Adapters
(2) Bushed DOM sleeve kits (with or without zerks) - 2" x 0.25", 2.365" wide (Can buy 2.625" and cut to 2.365")

- Cut the 1.5" DOM in half.

- Cut the 2" DOM in half. Make the cut at 45 degrees.

- Drill a 1/2" hole in the square ends and down towards the 45-degree ends of both of the 2" DOM tube for rosette welds (8 holes total, four in each 2" tube).

- Chamfer the square ends of the 2" DOM tube.

- Test fit should look like this:

- If applicable, cut the 2.625"-wide DOM sleeves down to 2.365" wide (overall width with bushings installed). If you didn't buy a pair with zerks pre-installed, drill and tap the sleeves to install your own fittings. There used to be a dude on eBay that was selling the 2.365"-wide bushed DOM sleeve kits with zerks installed but I can't find the listing anymore.

- Offset notch the 1.5" DOM tubes and deburr.

 

[reznunt]

- Since I don't have access to a lathe, I precision-turned my 1.5" DOM tubes with my grinder and flap disc. Shaved off a few thousandths to allow a running fit of the 1.5" tubes in the 2" tubes. A light hand and a few minutes is all it took. Basically just shave off a little more than the skin and test fit as you go.

- Plug/rosette weld the adapters into place in the 2" tubes.

- Weld out the rest on the adapters.

- Weld on the bushing sleeves.

- Slide the tubes into place. Mine took a few super light taps with a mallet to help them in. I matched the OEM length (about 27.5" eye to eye) with the Johnny Joints turned all the way in.

 

[reznunt]

- Plug/rosette weld the other four holes.

- Weld the tubes together.

- Rattle can

- Compare to stock and stick your chest out in triumph.

 

[reznunt]

- Install with the original hardware.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Those look awesome, great job sir!

Love that welding helmet too

 

[bucfl]

Look great!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Great job! Wanna sell a pair to a fellow mud member?

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

nice!

 

[cj10]

Just curious what is the benefit of having 2 different size tubes vs a straight link? Is it stronger?

 

[reznunt]

Those look awesome, great job sir!

Love that welding helmet too

Look great!

Great job! Wanna sell a pair to a fellow mud member?

nice!

Thanks guys!

 

[reznunt]

Just curious what is the benefit of having 2 different size tubes vs a straight link? Is it stronger?

Stronger, and also lets you still use the larger 1.25"-shank JJ with a weld-in adapter. This saves you from having to thread the tube ends. Some of the ones available from the big shops use a smaller weld in adapter to fit their smaller tube. The smaller adapter uses a smaller JJ shank.

I credit Califab for this design. Big benefits over what else is available.

 

[reznunt]

Great job! Wanna sell a pair to a fellow mud member?

Thanks! I don't sell them, just wanted to share the info for other DIY'ers.

 

[DTCsk8er]

These look great! Good job!

 

[reznunt]

These look great! Good job!

Thanks!

 

[hoser]

I think you might've overdid it. Nice work!

 

[reznunt]

I think you might've overdid it. Nice work!

Thanks! Haha ya, pretty overkill.

 

[FLWookie]

All that and you didn't opt to make them high-clearance? Lame.




J/K that's awesome and something I'll probably copy when i get around to replacing mine. Are you going to do the uppers and the transverse bar as well?

 

[Roosevelt T]

This is fantastic. Great job.

 

[MongooseGA]

Holy crap these look sweet. You might consider making a few sets for sale, I bet you'd empty out ASAP.

All that and you didn't opt to make them high-clearance? Lame.

This piqued my interest, too. Maybe a dumb question, but would it have a negative impact on alignment if one were to fab a pair of these with a bend in the middle to provide more clearance underneath? Assume the overal end to end length would have to be the same, but that bend could be very helpful over rocks and stumps.

 

[hoser]

^^^my LCA's were designed that way and there is no difference in alignment. The axle and frame don't know the difference.