DIY 4.3 Re-Gear (2 Viewers)

[lx200inAR]

So, would the 3rd member from a 4.7 or 4.6L Tundra be a drop in since they used the 9.5" axle? With the 2016+ 8 speed trucks having a factory 3.31 ratio, the 3.91's from the Tundra 4.6L would be pretty mint with a 35" tire, or even a 37. Even with a 37", they would still be slightly shorter overall than the stock 3.31/32" tire combo.

1st gear would be shorter than the 6 speed trucks with 4.88's, but 8th would still be decently tall for the freeway. I figure it would be at 2000 rpm running at 75mph with a 315/70R17

Pretty sure 3.91 is the common upgrade for 2016 and later. 3.91 is also the ratio for all the pre 2016 200 series (LX and LC). So the ideal option is to source parts from a pre 2016 that had it's gears updated to 4.30 or 4.88. I think there's some weird stuff that happened at some point for the post 2016 with the axle carriers. But i don't know the details, so more homework would be necessary.

 

[bloc]

I think there's some weird stuff that happened at some point for the post 2016 with the axle carriers. But i don't know the details, so more homework would be necessary.

IIRC as the ratios got taller and taller the pinion gear got larger and as a result the ring gear got thinner.. to the point Toyota just moved the ring gear flange sideways to allow a thicker gear.

 

[skrypj]

Pretty sure 3.91 is the common upgrade for 2016 and later. 3.91 is also the ratio for all the pre 2016 200 series (LX and LC). So the ideal option is to source parts from a pre 2016 that had it's gears updated to 4.30 or 4.88. I think there's some weird stuff that happened at some point for the post 2016 with the axle carriers. But i don't know the details, so more homework would be necessary.

Yeah I just figured the Tundra 3rd members would probably be a hell of a lot easier to find than a LC/LX 3rd. Normally the tundy would have the 10.5" axle but the 4.7/4.6's came with the 9.5" and the 3.91's so its an easy swap.

Car-part.com has a few locally even.

 

[bloc]

Yeah I just figured the Tundra 3rd members would probably be a hell of a lot easier to find than a LC/LX 3rd. Normally the tundy would have the 10.5" axle but the 4.7/4.6's came with the 9.5" and the 3.91's so its an easy swap.

Car-part.com has a few locally even.

I don't think they work.. The 3.9 gears from each platform are different part numbers, and if they shared the rest of the architecture I don't know why they'd change these.

Really, none of the part numbers carry over. The housing, diff carrier, all different parts. To me this suggests its just a different part family than for our rigs.

 

[skrypj]

I don't think they work.. The 3.9 gears from each platform are different part numbers, and if they shared the rest of the architecture I don't know why they'd change these.

Really, none of the part numbers carry over. The housing, diff carrier, all different parts. To me this suggests its just a different part family than for our rigs.

possibly. But Eaton shows same diff carrier P/N for the 200 and 4.7L Tundra so they cant be that different.

And I have seen a couple of site list gears as compatible with both.

 

[bloc]

possibly. But Eaton shows same diff carrier P/N for the 200 and 4.7L Tundra so they cant be that different.

View attachment 3557707

And I have seen a couple of site list gears as compatible with both.

Good info. Someone needs to put them side by side.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

sweet victory over the bearing. The feet on this puller would mar the mating surface. A few 2x4 cutoffs provided stability and enough softness to keep the aluminum shell unscathed.

This puller was ~$70CAD on Amazon...the slide hammer didn't want to move it at all, but the puller was smooth like butter.

BTSHUB Blind Bearing Puller Tool Set Blind Hole Remover Inner Internal Bearing Extractor Set 8-58mm Collets Size https://a.co/d/7uTlfdK

I ordered a 100 series rear 3rd member new out of Japan on IMPEX for $940USD. Figure I'll keep the 200 series differentials that I pull from my LX570, in case I ever want to add lockers and (different) gears to those in the future.

 

[bjowett]

I ordered a 100 series rear 3rd member new out of Japan on IMPEX for $940USD. Figure I'll keep the 200 series differentials that I pull from my LX570, in case I ever want to add lockers and (different) gears to those in the future.

Which number 100 series diff did you order? They usually supersede out to a 200 number.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Which number 100 series diff did you order? They usually supersede out to a 200 number.

41110-60A31

Should fit... I hope?

 

[bjowett]

Yes, it will fit. That is the superseded number.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

fresh arrival from Japan...~$950USD + $260USD shipping. I'm sure I will have to pay 5% tax on a fedex invoice too, so another ~$50 puts this diff at about $1,260 USD. Not bad for a new 3rd member. Thanks IMPEX!

Just need to find some garage time now...

 

[lx200inAR]

View attachment 3637490fresh arrival from Japan...~$950USD + $260USD shipping. I'm sure I will have to pay 5% tax on a fedex invoice too, so another ~$50 puts this diff at about $1,260 USD. Not bad for a new 3rd member. Thanks IMPEX!

Just need to find some garage time now...

Does this one have the elocker?

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Does this one have the elocker?

No locker

 

[cubaniche]

Awesome thread. I've got an 14 LX on skinny 35s (kenda klevers) and harrop supercharger. I purchased a new set of 4.30 gears and master install kit from Nitro. I popped the 3rd off and took it to a shop to perform the install. I purchased a front diff off a 2019 tundra with only 49k on the odo with confirmed tow package and 4.30 gears.

Dropped the front diff, popped off the axle tube and did the same on the tundra diff. Ran in to the same semi-difficult to remove sprocket/shaft. But I got it out with no marring of the surfaces etc. Just to test, I took the tube from my LX and to my surprise, it slid right on with that roller bearing still in place.

Can you guys confirm 100% that it needed to be removed? Because, I had no problem with the axle tube off my LX slipping into the tundra diff with the roller bearing still in place.

 

[TLC2013]

Awesome thread. I've got an 14 LX on skinny 35s (kenda klevers) and harrop supercharger. I purchased a new set of 4.30 gears and master install kit from Nitro. I popped the 3rd off and took it to a shop to perform the install. I purchased a front diff off a 2019 tundra with only 49k on the odo with confirmed tow package and 4.30 gears.

Dropped the front diff, popped off the axle tube and did the same on the tundra diff. Ran in to the same semi-difficult to remove sprocket/shaft. But I got it out with no marring of the surfaces etc. Just to test, I took the tube from my LX and to my surprise, it slid right on with that roller bearing still in place.

Can you guys confirm 100% that it needed to be removed? Because, I had no problem with the axle tube off my LX slipping into the tundra diff with the roller bearing still in place.

Doesn't need to be removed. But can be and replaced with the EGS bushing. The consensus seems to be that this is the better option then leaving the needle bearings inside.
Ill be installing new diffs this weekend with the front having the EGS bushing instead of needle bearings.

Last photo shows the new bushing inside the front diff where the needle bearings were originally.

Once I am finished and all buttoned up i can lend out the EGS tool/jig to anyone that needs this for their install.

Toyota Clamshell Bushings - 2007 - 2021 Tundra and 2008 - 2022 Sequoia

Toyota Clamshell Bushings - 2007 - 2021 Tundra and 2008 - 2022 Sequoia

eastcoastgearsupply.com

 

[cubaniche]

Doesn't need to be removed. But can be and replaced with the EGS bushing. The consensus seems to be that this is the better option then leaving the needle bearings inside.
Ill be installing new diffs this weekend with the front having the EGS bushing instead of needle bearings.

Last photo shows the new bushing inside the front diff where the needle bearings were originally.

Once I am finished and all buttoned up i can lend out the EGS tool/jig to anyone that needs this for their install.

Toyota Clamshell Bushings - 2007 - 2021 Tundra and 2008 - 2022 Sequoia

Toyota Clamshell Bushings - 2007 - 2021 Tundra and 2008 - 2022 Sequoia

eastcoastgearsupply.com

View attachment 3648078

View attachment 3648079

View attachment 3648080

Interesting. However, what you posted is on the driver side. My post is about the removal of the needle bearing on the passenger side where the axle tube goes that everyone else in this thread has been removing because the shaft of the factory lx tube is reported to not fit. However, on mine, it did with no additonal force. So I was wondering how sure everyone was about having to remove it and it not allowing the factory lx shaft to slide in. I did have to tap the tube down to the mating surface but that was because of the two locating dowels.

 

[TeCKis300]

Interesting. However, what you posted is on the driver side. My post is about the removal of the needle bearing on the passenger side where the axle tube goes that everyone else in this thread has been removing because the shaft of the factory lx tube is reported to not fit. However, on mine, it did with no additonal force. So I was wondering how sure everyone was about having to remove it and it not allowing the factory lx shaft to slide in. I did have to tap the tube down to the mating surface but that was because of the two locating dowels.

Interesting that you got it to fit up. Might be that I didn't try hard enough?

I think I would lean towards removing it just the same as it's extraneous in the 200 that doesn't have ADD. One less part to fail or cause issues? Probably would work fine with it too?

 

[TLC2013]

Interesting. However, what you posted is on the driver side. My post is about the removal of the needle bearing on the passenger side where the axle tube goes that everyone else in this thread has been removing because the shaft of the factory lx tube is reported to not fit. However, on mine, it did with no additonal force. So I was wondering how sure everyone was about having to remove it and it not allowing the factory lx shaft to slide in. I did have to tap the tube down to the mating surface but that was because of the two locating dowels.

Woops, misread that in my original response. I will be removing that from the passenger side. I don't think anyone here has left it inside so why risk it.

 

[cubaniche]

Woops, misread that in my original response. I will be removing that from the passenger side. I don't think anyone here has left it inside so why risk it.

What would be the risk exactly? I measured the the shafts diameter both on the one that came out of the tundra diff (sprocket/shaft) and the one in the axle tube off the lx and they measured exactly the same with a micrometer.

I'm not trying to swim against the current here nor create any rifts in the discussion. I'm genuinely curious, and wanting to discuss with others about it. This diff had 49k on it. I'm unfamiliar with the roller bearing failure issue but it must be problematic enough on the other platforms to trigger interest from a well k own company like ECGS to come up with that solution you shared.

 

[cubaniche]

Interesting that you got it to fit up. Might be that I didn't try hard enough?

I think I would lean towards removing it just the same as it's extraneous in the 200 that doesn't have ADD. One less part to fail or cause issues? Probably would work fine with it too?

You removed the needle bearing from the tube side, but you left the one on the driver side intact?