That line is part number 48998-60010
Disabling the AHC and AVS systems, no warning lights. (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter turbo8
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That's funny that you replied to my reply when you did. I was right in the middle of reading the "My AHC failed" thread when you replied
Thank you for dropping that part number for me. If you don't mind asking, on the banana scale, how hard is that line to remove, and reinstall in your garage, if you have pretty decent wrenching skills on 80's, 100's & 200 series L.C's?Thank's for being understanding, b/c I'm not trying to be oblivious to the AHC system or be a hater of it. I love the AHC, don't me wrong about it, it is an amazing suspension system, and I love the creature comfort's the LX has compared to the 2011 L.C. I used to own. I just don't like dealing with the headaches that many of us Lux owners seem to accquire when we buy a LX. I also own a 2004 LX470, and I had issues with the AHC on that vehicle and ended up cutting the AHC out, and installing OEM L.C. suspension and I don't regret it.
In all honesty, I'm peeved over this situation in general. I purchased this vehicle this past September after my 2011 L.C. got totaled. I was a bit skeptical about buying another LX b/c of the AHC issues I had previously delt with. I was told at the Toyota dealership during my PPI, that they had just spent between $6k-$7,500 and had installed a pretty much new AHC system on the vehicle, and it was easily good for another 100,000 miles if maintained and taken care. Well...I made it 5 months & 9,000 miles until that rear line proved them wrong. Oh well that's rock n roll. I guess the only thing I can do from here is call the dealership I bought her from, and see how much they will charge to repair the line.
Suspension wise. Are the foam cell pro's really that much of a step down? Just curious b/c the few who have mentioned deleting AHC and installed FCP's have nothing bad to say about there before & after setup.
You don’t gotta convince me either way, was just pointing out that you have a very repairable problem vs expense of deleting if cost is your concern as you originally said.
FCP is a very entry level option that’s designed to give okay dampening across a wide variety of scenarios. No way it would match what you got or high end shocks with adjustable dampening/rebound/compression.
That's funny that you replied to my reply when you did. I was right in the middle of reading the "My AHC failed" thread when you replied
I did it in my driveway. It isn't hard to replace as long as you don't strip anything. It's a bit tight (specially on the passenger side connection) so a set of ratcheting wrenches helps. I stripped the bracket bolt on the passenger side connection (my fault as I used the wrong socket), so I had to wait for a low profile bolt extractor socket from Amazon to get it off. Other than that, it was fairly straight forward.
I appreciate that. The line itself is going to cost around $115.00 labor wise I have no clue what they would try and charge. Hopefully it will be reasonable.
Thanks for the clarification on the Stage 1 FCP's. I was under the impression that those shocks were on the same level as the OME BP-51's.
I got under the rear this morning and looked around. It looks like both ends of the line would require a flare wrench to disconnect is that correct, and it looks like there are only 3 brackets holding the line up, plus you mentioned something in another thread about removing some exhause bolts?
Yes, you'd need open wrenches for the connections to the other lines. I belive I used two wrenches on the driver's side. I don't remember if I did the same on the passenger side since it's tight. For the brackets you can use sockets except for the passenger side. There a ratcheting wrench will help. I remember I also removed the bolt holding the differential breather (I'm not sure if this is necessary). I also lowered the exhaust a bit by unhooking it from the two rear rubber hangers. This is to have more space to wiggle the failed line and insert the new one. I also removed the spare tire.
I appreciate the info. I pm'd you b/c I had a few more questions for you. Also, do you know off hand if removing the two AHC fuses from the fuse box is enough to shut the pump down? Or do I need to disconnect from the ECU on the rear driver's side wall? I just want to make sure I don't burn my pump up.
I'm not sure if you're referring to me but I didn't get any PMs. I only removed one of the square AHC fuses when I did mine.
I just PM'd you. I meant to send it earlier, but got called into work.
Just wanted to drop in and give an update.
I know a few of you encouraged me to just change out the line that went bad, but I spent 4hrs in the garage last night, wrestling with this line that needs replaced, and it will not budge! The connectors on both ends of the line that needs replaced, are so seized on. But it's not just line.
After removing the plates from the Slee rock sliders, and actually being able inspect the accumulators, and bleeding valves, and being able to climb under the rear to work on the busted line, it's blanantly obvious that $6k-$7,500 was not spent replacing anything on this suspension system. Everything suspension wise is rusted! The rear passenger side shock, has a hole in the top of the shock.
I've pretty much accepted that I'm going to have to convert my LX570 to traditional suspension. This isn't how I wanted things to play out, but it is what it is.
Plus, the local Lexus dealership quoted me 8.5hrs of labor for replacing the line, and 4hrs to fill and bleed the system. I was told to be prepared to spend at a minimum around $2k to replace the line, and around another $400 for them to bleed the system. They also told me, that if my bleeder valves and accumulators look bad, or are rusty, then they will pass on the work. Here are a few shots of my accumulators.
I know a few of you encouraged me to just change out the line that went bad, but I spent 4hrs in the garage last night, wrestling with this line that needs replaced, and it will not budge! The connectors on both ends of the line that needs replaced, are so seized on. But it's not just line.
After removing the plates from the Slee rock sliders, and actually being able inspect the accumulators, and bleeding valves, and being able to climb under the rear to work on the busted line, it's blanantly obvious that $6k-$7,500 was not spent replacing anything on this suspension system. Everything suspension wise is rusted! The rear passenger side shock, has a hole in the top of the shock.
I've pretty much accepted that I'm going to have to convert my LX570 to traditional suspension. This isn't how I wanted things to play out, but it is what it is.
Plus, the local Lexus dealership quoted me 8.5hrs of labor for replacing the line, and 4hrs to fill and bleed the system. I was told to be prepared to spend at a minimum around $2k to replace the line, and around another $400 for them to bleed the system. They also told me, that if my bleeder valves and accumulators look bad, or are rusty, then they will pass on the work. Here are a few shots of my accumulators.
Thanks turbo! It's awesome to get some words of encouragement from: the man, the myth, the legend who started this thread
I'm going to unplug the AHC ECU ,and remove all the fuses today. I'll report back once I get my suspension swap fully completed.
I ended up getting a pretty great deal this past Friday on a set of 200 series L.C. suspension that has maybe 5 miles on it. The Cruiser it came off of had OME BP-51's installed on it fresh off the truck at the dealership before the Cruiser went out on the lot. It may not be a set of BP-51's, Icon's, or King's, but it will get my Lux back on the road until I can get a suspension system installed that matches the comfort the AHC suspension had.
Now comes the fun part of removing all the old suspension...
Now comes the fun part of removing all the old suspension...
I ended up getting a pretty great deal this past Friday on a set of 200 series L.C. suspension that has maybe 5 miles on it. The Cruiser it came off of had OME BP-51's installed on it fresh off the truck at the dealership before the Cruiser went out on the lot. It may not be a set of BP-51's, Icon's, or King's, but it will get my Lux back on the road until I can get a suspension system installed that matches the comfort the AHC suspension had.
Now comes the fun part of removing all the old suspension...
View attachment 3560770
Mind sharing what you paid?
I ask as we have a half dozen or so similar sets, all off of under 10 mile HE 200's. Curious others are getting for them.
I PM'd you.
I have a question for you guy's who had to cut the rear shocks out on their LX570.
I was able to get AHC lines disconnected from the rear shocks with ease, but the 21mm bolt on the top of the shocks doesn't want to budge. I also noticed the top bolt sits differently, than it does on a 200 series Land Cruiser, so I won't be able to cut the top bolt off from the wheel well.
I've decided instead of putzing around and wasting time, I'm just going to cut the shocks out from underneath with a sawzall.
If I cut below the white, or above the red line I drew on the picture I provided, will I have enough wiggle room to get that top part of the shock out?
As far as sawzall blades go, have any of you guy's used these El Diablo carbite blades with good results, or what blades do you guy's recommend so I can go thru these shocks like a hot knife thru butter?
I was able to get AHC lines disconnected from the rear shocks with ease, but the 21mm bolt on the top of the shocks doesn't want to budge. I also noticed the top bolt sits differently, than it does on a 200 series Land Cruiser, so I won't be able to cut the top bolt off from the wheel well.
I've decided instead of putzing around and wasting time, I'm just going to cut the shocks out from underneath with a sawzall.
If I cut below the white, or above the red line I drew on the picture I provided, will I have enough wiggle room to get that top part of the shock out?
As far as sawzall blades go, have any of you guy's used these El Diablo carbite blades with good results, or what blades do you guy's recommend so I can go thru these shocks like a hot knife thru butter?
I've had good luck with the Lenox "Metal Lazer" blades. If you have room to make a tiny starting groove with a dremel, it helps the blade stay put because the teeth are small like a hacksaw. Haven't chopped any shocks off a 200, so i can't help with the other question.
