DIRTBIKEUSA’s Alaska Cruiser build thread (1 Viewer)

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If you look closer you can see the Jerry can is supported on either side. To secure completely would just wrap a ratchet strap around it when I need the extra fuel. Right now it’s empty, bar an ounce of 2stroke oil to keep it from rusting internally.
Now I see what you were saying. Yeah I can figure out how to lock it up.
 
I'm just going to say it, and I mean no offense, but there is no way those swing outs are making it to Alaska...
Agreed !
 
I can see that's a weld on gate hinge 😂

Even tire swing out that are supported use a 11/4" shaft and those have know the snap off.
Where all here to help each other ! and were just trying to help !

You seem knowledgeable and we can see that your a family man, think of the family that may be following you down the road when that thing lets go !
This is what a tire swing out hinge looks like.
1716397107844.png

I have made a few tire swing outs myself 😜
1716397561986.png
 
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I can see that's a weld on gate hinge 😂

Even tire swing out that are supported use a 11/4" shaft and those have know the snap off.
Where all here to help each other ! and were just trying to help !

You seem knowledgeable and we can see that your a family man, think of the family that may be following you down the road when that thing lets go !
This is what a tire swing out hinge looks like.
View attachment 3637927
I have made a few tire swing outs myself 😜
View attachment 3637930
It’s still a work in progress. When the tire is stowed it rests on a step so no actual weight is on the hinge unless it’s swung out. Same for the jerry can.. I still have plenty of material so it can always be redesigned.

I didn’t think it looked that dangerous. But maybe a different hinge should be used. We’ll see.

I’m at a point where I’m saving extra cash for a winch set up for the front bumper. Looking at a 9500lb warn or smittybuilt. Having some trouble pulling the trigger about it right now since I see so many bad reviews online..

Also need the roof rack attached somehow, and led lights mounted. All of the electrical is finished for it.

Still waiting on a pillar gauge pod as well. Most of that electrical is in except ignition signal.
 
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Worked a little on the cruiser today. Wired in the trans temp gauge with the a-pillar gauge pod. Had to drill some holes on the back side of the pod and remove the back light from the gauge to fit..oh well. No back light. All I have to do is apply ground and tap some ing power and the gauge should be operational.

Found out the OEM disk changer isn’t working. Only pretends to read disk5-6 and then says err ☹️ Don’t really matter cause almost all the speakers are blown anyway. (Guess that’s another project 🙂.)

Fished around for the rear sunroof drains but no dice on that.

Took her for a longer drive around town and a little off-roading down a power line road. I’m feeling more and more confident in the cruiser’s reliability. Tomorrow I’m planning on taking it for the longest drive about an hour to a customer’s car repair and back. I’m working up to 3-4 hour legs of driving at highway speeds for the eventual trip up to Alaska. Wife says not this year, we might be moving, but we will see.

Thinking about doing a front hub and wheel bearing rebuild soon. They arnt leaking or making noise the grease wipers arnt bad but it’s a matter of time anyways.

Need to bleed out the brakes of old fluid and also change out the rubber brake hoses as well. Looks like the cruiser already has a new master cylinder so no need for a replacement.

I ordered new shocks and stuff for wife’s sequoia. We have a trip to take it on El Paso for my baby girls last helmet, then up to ‘Doso for a three night mini vacation in the mountains 🙂🙂🙂.

Feeling good about my purchase, work, and progress!
 
Oh and I ordered up and down o2 sensors.
The scanner says slow response. But it’s still working within the 1volt. So rather than inspect and clean soot I will just replace.


I’m thinking about making major changes to the rear bumper. Not just the tire Swing out. I have some heavy 2in. Pipe that I want to work in. I also want to work in a bull bar on the front as well.
 
Been lookin for all inclusive kit to rebuild front outer axles with wheel bearings.

This Kit looks good?

I also want to replace the axle shafts and cv with Rockauto if needed. Or rebuild?

Thoughts?
 
Been lookin for all inclusive kit to rebuild front outer axles with wheel bearings.

This Kit looks good?

I also want to replace the axle shafts and cv with Rockauto if needed. Or rebuild?

Thoughts?
I went with cruiser outfitters out of Utah when I did mine and was happy with all of the parts. I reused the axle shafts since they were still in good shape.

For the front rotors and brake pads I went with NAPA.
 
I can see that's a weld on gate hinge 😂

Even tire swing out that are supported use a 11/4" shaft and those have know the snap off.
Where all here to help each other ! and were just trying to help !

You seem knowledgeable and we can see that your a family man, think of the family that may be following you down the road when that thing lets go !
This is what a tire swing out hinge looks like.
View attachment 3637927
I have made a few tire swing outs myself 😜
View attachment 3637930
Just an idea that has crossed my mind a time or two... I think a scrapyard/budget option for a good swingout hinge could be the steering stem and head tube from a motorcycle. Build the swingout off that main tube and weld the stem into the bumper. Just a thought, not a fully fleshed out idea. I've never tried it, but it's a pretty stout arrangement and I'm pretty sure it sees forces much higher than a tire carrier.
 
Just an idea that has crossed my mind a time or two... I think a scrapyard/budget option for a good swingout hinge could be the steering stem and head tube from a motorcycle. Build the swingout off that main tube and weld the stem into the bumper. Just a thought, not a fully fleshed out idea. I've never tried it, but it's a pretty stout arrangement and I'm pretty sure it sees forces much higher than a tire carrier.
I think that would work well, it's double sheer and like you said made to see heavy forces.
Then again what you mount it too has to be up the forces that a tire swing out produce !
 
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Just an idea that has crossed my mind a time or two... I think a scrapyard/budget option for a good swingout hinge could be the steering stem and head tube from a motorcycle. Build the swingout off that main tube and weld the stem into the bumper. Just a thought, not a fully fleshed out idea. I've never tried it, but it's a pretty stout arrangement and I'm pretty sure it sees forces much higher than a tire carrier.
That’s a cool idea!
 
Looking at R&R the brake lines. What do you guys recommended for a set that will accommodate a future lift? I see several online vendors..what do you guys run?
Thanks!
 
Looking at R&R the brake lines. What do you guys recommended for a set that will accommodate a future lift? I see several online vendors..what do you guys run?
Thanks!
Not sure how much lift you are planning but my brake lines are stock length with a 1.75" lift.

For me the sweet spot on a family exploring rig is 33" tires (285/75/16) on a 1.75" or 2" lift with front control arm drop brackets. All of the pros of a slight lift (go almost anywhere offroad but still drives nice on the street) with non of the cons of a bigger lift (more $$$, chasing vibrations, re gearing, hard for the family to get into the vehicle, etc..).

1717101807623.png
 
Looking at R&R the brake lines. What do you guys recommended for a set that will accommodate a future lift? I see several online vendors..what do you guys run?
Thanks!
I run mini truck braided. Found a killer sale on Yotamasters, but its been a while.
 
Not sure how much lift you are planning but my brake lines are stock length with a 1.75" lift.

For me the sweet spot on a family exploring rig is 33" tires (285/75/16) on a 1.75" or 2" lift with front control arm drop brackets. All of the pros of a slight lift (go almost anywhere offroad but still drives nice on the street) with non of the cons of a bigger lift (more $$$, chasing vibrations, re gearing, hard for the family to get into the vehicle, etc..).

View attachment 3643559
I hear you on lift and accessibility for shorties. I’m thinking about a 2 in lift in the future. I wanted to upgrade now and forget about it.

Seems like the lifts done “properly” have to be pieced together. Especially the rear suspension arms.

I donot plan nor want to hard core off-road. Pretty much stick to more light trails. Idk blue square stuff no black diamonds if you understand that reference. If a trail gets tough I will use the bypass.

I’m really looking at reliability for highway travel and the ability to get through some tougher terrain when situation warrants it. Something that will get us there and back comfortably and confidently without going all out $$$ and stance.

So far the truck has performed well in its stock form. Does 2 inches seem too much to ask of my needs?
 
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I hear you on lift and accessibility for shorties. I’m thinking about a 2 in lift in the future. I wanted to upgrade now and forget about it.

Seems like the lifts done “properly” have to be pieced together. Especially the rear suspension arms.

I donot plan nor want to hard core off-road. Pretty much stick to more light trails. Idk blue square stuff no black diamonds if you understand that reference. If a trail gets tough I will use the bypass.

I’m really looking at reliability for highway travel and the ability to get through some tougher terrain when situation warrants it. Something that will get us there and back comfortably and confidently without going all out $$$ and stance.

So far the truck has performed well in its stock form. 2 inches does seem too much to ask of it.
The nice thing about a 2" lift is that nothing in the suspension has to be changed other than shocks, springs and caster correction (several options for this). Nothing else to piece together.

Another option is a "stock height" kit which will actually lift you a bit since the old springs have some sag by now.

The key thing is to have everything else added and the cruiser weighed (front and rear) before you choose springs so they can be matched to the weight.
 
The nice thing about a 2" lift is that nothing in the suspension has to be changed other than shocks, springs and caster correction (several options for this). Nothing else to piece together.

Another option is a "stock height" kit which will actually lift you a bit since the old springs have some sag by now.

The key thing is to have everything else added and the cruiser weighed (front and rear) before you choose springs so they can be matched to the weight.
Exactly my thoughts on the weight additions. I believe the ordinal lx springs are on it. Tire to fender spacing seems close to even all the way around. The cruiser was used by an old lady to wagon around her grandkids, and the wear and tear does resemble it.

What do you think about mixing “soft” front 2 in springs and “medium” 2in springs in the rear for a possible small teardrop trailer towed? The trailer would be as light as possible and counterbalanced to the hitch?

Just playing around with ideas for the future.
 

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