Diesel Transplanted 80 series Registry (3 Viewers)

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Hey 70sguy... Nice job. Did you do all the work or did you pay the big bucks to have it done?

:clap:

All by myself aside from my friend Joel laying down the welds on the repositioned tranny cross member brackets.
 
Don't tempt me Pasquale...a little Arizona would be a nice break from all the rain..
 
Do any of you guys tow with your transplanted 80's? I haul a 7'x14' enclosed trailer with my race bike and gear in it 9 times a year no farther than 4-6 hrs away. I weight in around 3-4k at the most all loaded out. My 93 1fz does a fairly good job dragging my krap around, But I'm starting to wonder. Pretty flat around me so I can drive 70 mph in od without it kicking in and out of 3rd 4th shifts no problem. The only downside of my set up is mpg. I get 10mpg towing. Thats not bad in my books for what it is. But I cant help wonder if I did a transplant would I really benefit from it looking at it from a cost to do the swap vs. overtime gas/wear out/etc. cost. Looks like the 6.2/6.5 is the "cheaper" of the options but the 4bt's have really caught my eye. That with a manual looks pretty appealing all the way around for my application. I've been looking around but not seeing any post that are relevant to what I'm asking. My rig is half tore apart right now cause I just painted it and I'm on the fence right now before I put it completely back together weather or not to jump or just leave well enough alone.
 
I tow my M101/RTT set up which is easily 1200 plus pounds and get high teens MPG at worst (70mph, mtn passes etc) and Lower 20s MPGs when on the back roads doing 55.
given the cost of a 1HD-FT and 5speed etc conversion it would probably take quite a while to pay off the conversion on fuel savings alone... but it depends how much you tow I guess. I would say that 3-4k lbs is the upper limit for towing with an 80 regardless of the engine... at least out west where mtn passes are the norm.
One of those 4B-T 5speed Cummins swaps might be worth looking at, certainly better option than a the
infamous 6.2 or 6.5 IMO... and should cost a pile less than 1HD-T/1HD-FT and H151F conversion.
 
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My #'s on towing weight are on the high side but I'd rather be high for the what if's. When the trailers empty You dont even know its there. I've thought about a toyota swap. I live 40 min to an hour depending on traffic from the canadian border so getting a toyota diesel could be an option for me. That would be great everything just fitting cause its made to go there. But I have a feeling that one will cost me one of my kids. Being in the mid -high teens would put an extra hop in my step and make me sway on the diesel side for sure though. A dozen couple hundred mile trips with that kinda mpg's could save a few bucks for sure. Now I'm scratching my head thinking.
Just ran out and looked my trailer. It's only 1200lbs. 400lbs bike, camping gear and junk I'm only 2kish. Tag said 4k max. So even with 2 or 3 bikes in it and with buddies in tow I would still be under 3k. hmm hmm hmm. I think I need to find me a wrecked frito's truck.
 
$$$$

My #'s on towing weight are on the high side but I'd rather be high for the what if's. When the trailers empty You dont even know its there. I've thought about a toyota swap. I live 40 min to an hour depending on traffic from the canadian border so getting a toyota diesel could be an option for me. That would be great everything just fitting cause its made to go there. But I have a feeling that one will cost me one of my kids. Being in the mid -high teens would put an extra hop in my step and make me sway on the diesel side for sure though. A dozen couple hundred mile trips with that kinda mpg's could save a few bucks for sure. Now I'm scratching my head thinking.
Just ran out and looked my trailer. It's only 1200lbs. 400lbs bike, camping gear and junk I'm only 2kish. Tag said 4k max. So even with 2 or 3 bikes in it and with buddies in tow I would still be under 3k. hmm hmm hmm. I think I need to find me a wrecked frito's truck.

OEM is $$$ unless you find a wreck out of canada- Ohio is a good place for 4BT's and other surplus diesels. Think a 6BT might be a better option for towing. I know of a guy who has one in a 62- its big but he pulls a 20' plus ocean boat- For the $$$ a swap could cost you could pick up a decent Ford or Dodge diesel.. I don't think most of us can swap a motor and get our money back in fuel savings- just do it because you want to and take it from there..

My hats off to all of you swappers on here... I'm getting closer, I think.
 
Doesn't seem like the 6.2 is significantly heavier than the 1FZFE. My truck, with bumpers, winch, and sliders, is tipping the scales at 6000lb. How does that compare to other trail modded FJ80's??
 
1. Year and model of the original truck.

1994 FZJ80

2. Brief details of the Drivetrain that was swapped in.

1996 HDFT 24 valve 4.2 turbo diesel
H150F manual 5 speed transmission to stock transfer case

3. What went really well with the swap?

The fact that the majority of bolt locations and mounts/mounting locations are already there.

4. What was unexpectedly difficult with the swap?

Not as much as I expected actually. It is mostly just going through the steps and taking your time to make sure that it is done correctly and in my case, 100% Toyota Factory original-no short cuts.

5. Mods...aside from drivetrain, if any?

6" lift kit, 315/75R16 tires, ARB front with M12000, rear 4X4 Labs bumper, African Outback drawer system, ARB 63Q freezer fridge
Isspro pyrometer and boost gauges.
(Soon to have a Safari Intercooler system installed)

6. Driving impressions after the swap...including drivability in daily driving (if applicable), highway travel, and, of course, off pavement.

I absolutely love it. Heaps of power, awesome drive ability, nearly 22 US MPG consistently
I wanted to do away with my A/T since I bought it and now that I have a manual 5 speed, I will never ever look back!!


7. Realistic fuel consumption after the swap...lol. :D

Worst tank I have had was just shy of 18 US MPG into a headwind. Best tank I achieved just shy of 23 US MPG.

8. Five star rating for overall difficulty of the swap: *=relatively easy, *****=don't even attempt it unless you have some real good friends who are really handy.

***** for sure.
I am extremely lucky to have one of my greatest friends to help me with this-You know who you are sir. I did have a few extra hands helping me man-handle the whole drivetrain into the truck. Hats off to Dave Stedman of Japan 4X4 and Sheldon from G&S.

9. 2 to 3 pictures of your rig.
moz-screenshot.png

engine1.jpg
interior1.jpg
 
Nice work... flippin sweet my friend!
 
Thanks brosef! It is really really dirty in these photos. I should take some up to date photos and repost. I suppose I can do that when I document my Safari Intercooler install. Now I just have to wait until it arrives from Australia.
 
Good friend Ken did most of the work. engine was installed level, the tranny sits at about 5 degree slant due to the breadvan adapter plate.
1. 1994 80 series
2. 1994 80 with 4BT/NV4500/Orion. .
3. What went really well with the swap? - the end result.
4. What was unexpectedly difficult with the swap? - everything. not an easy swap.
5. Mods...aside from drivetrain, if any? - Intercooled, 3200RPM spring, H1C turbo with 54MM inducer. Boosts to about 22psi, 900F pre-turbo. ~95:1 crawl ration.
6. Driving impressions after the swap- Really loud at idle. And shaky. Would drive you crazy on the trail all day. once over 20mph, it's fine. And after new injectors, much smoother.
7. Realistic fuel consumption after the swap. - don't know. already sold it.
8. overall difficulty of the swap: ***** HUGE pita to install. To make it fit _right_, needed custom exhaust manifold cut from a 6BT, oil pan and pickup tube modified, floorboards clearanced for transfercase, and the NV4500 stick comes up under the dash (picture a SM420 in a landcruiser).
But it drives way way way nicer then a 4BT w/auto. 100x nicer.

YouTube - 4BT Running in 1994 Land Cruiser 80 Series

All gauges work, including the tach. Luckily we had a Proffitts converted 80 to figure out the wiring from... otherwise... phew, good luck. FJ60 hubs on the front, fit perfect (pre-95 birfs are smaller).
That is one albino cummins! LOL----was that a marine engine in its prior life? GREAT looking transplant btw :eek:)
 
Good friend Ken did most of the work. engine was installed level, the tranny sits at about 5 degree slant due to the breadvan adapter plate.
1. 1994 80 series
2. 1994 80 with 4BT/NV4500/Orion. .
3. What went really well with the swap? - the end result.
4. What was unexpectedly difficult with the swap? - everything. not an easy swap.
5. Mods...aside from drivetrain, if any? - Intercooled, 3200RPM spring, H1C turbo with 54MM inducer. Boosts to about 22psi, 900F pre-turbo. ~95:1 crawl ration.
6. Driving impressions after the swap- Really loud at idle. And shaky. Would drive you crazy on the trail all day. once over 20mph, it's fine. And after new injectors, much smoother.
7. Realistic fuel consumption after the swap. - don't know. already sold it.
8. overall difficulty of the swap: ***** HUGE pita to install. To make it fit _right_, needed custom exhaust manifold cut from a 6BT, oil pan and pickup tube modified, floorboards clearanced for transfercase, and the NV4500 stick comes up under the dash (picture a SM420 in a landcruiser).
But it drives way way way nicer then a 4BT w/auto. 100x nicer.

YouTube - 4BT Running in 1994 Land Cruiser 80 Series

All gauges work, including the tach. Luckily we had a Proffitts converted 80 to figure out the wiring from... otherwise... phew, good luck. FJ60 hubs on the front, fit perfect (pre-95 birfs are smaller).
Btw Gifu, who did your radiator/intercooler setup?
 
1. Year and model of the original truck.

1994 FZJ80.

2. Brief details of the Drivetrain that was swapped in.

1HD-T/A442F. More details on the build thread when I get around to it.

3. What went really well with the swap?

6 nuts and its in place. The world really is smaller these days; Dave Stedman of Japan 4x4 was able to help and get those parts that make this as close to factory as possible. That's funny; It really took only three of us, but you know what I mean.

4. What was unexpectedly difficult with the swap?

I leaned on the wizard, who has done a number of these in the last few years. So that was looked after. Even so, and even with an eyes open approach to the time required...it took a lot of time to look after the details. I told those around me I was going to be a wraith for a while...and it was longer.

5. Mods...aside from drivetrain, if any?

Rebuilt injection pump, injectors, turbo (ceramic coated exhaust manifold/hot/cold side), 3" Rage Big Bore exhaust (chromacoated), Wholesale Automatic Billet TC and VB, Madman gauge (not all hooked up yet), Walbro pusher pump.

Slee 4" lift, 255/85R16 Toyo M-55's, ARB Bullbar, Hanna sliders and rear bumper, Cruisin Skidplate, Safari Snorkel.

6. Driving impressions after the swap...including drivability in daily driving (if applicable), highway travel, and, of course, off pavement.

No wheeling yet, so no comment on that. Dump set to 13.5-14psi. I put around 15,000 miles on the FZJ after it came up from California. I've put about 1500 miles on it since the 1HD-T swap. It's subtle, but the best way I can explain this is to say the FZ feels quicker, but the 1HD-T just pulls. And pulls. After a recent road trip through the mountains (same route I had done in the FZJ a number of times) that is the best way I can describe the difference. Wait till it's intercooled and dumping at 20psi!

7. Realistic fuel consumption after the swap...lol. :D

I had a code on the FZJ, which I did not deal with as I knew the swap was coming. Mainly around town driving was netting 200 miles per fill (75-80 liters). Mainly around town after the 1HD-T was put in is netting around 300 miles per fill (75-80 liters). And I have been hitting it with a heavy foot, to see how it acts. On the recent road trip I went 539 miles, using 104 liters: into the number cruncher and converted 6% for tire size = 11.32l/100kms or 20.78 usmpg or 24.95impg.

8. Five star rating for overall difficulty of the swap: *=relatively easy, *****=don't even attempt it unless you have some real good friends who are really handy.

***** for the wiring interface end of it. Specially if you want it to reflect any resemblance to stock.

9. 2 to 3 pictures of your rig.

#1 = How it looked after coming up from California. The flares are gone (white Linex in its place).
#2 = 1HD-T nested in place.
#3 = Fuel door (notice anything?...other then the decals not complete yet)

10. A link to your own build thread with all the juicy details and pictures.

Will come later.
Donor.jpg
In place.jpg
Fuel Door.jpg
 
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Very nice install Greg!! The Wizard is quite helpful isn't he??

Nice decals, you need the "Direct Injection" one too. Let me know if you want a "Diesel" decal for inside of your fuel door as I have an extra one.

I see a sub-tank switcheroo in there, sweet!

Good work man!

Ross
 
Im looking at a half cut that has been sitting for a couple of years, anything to look out for?
 
The price tag and make sure it is a good one- stored right (inside). If I was paying 4 to 10 grand I better have some sort of warranty.

Stored outside in a crate, but in S. CA, presently the negotiated price is 10K. The ship date was '06 and the seller is hesitant to start it.
 
Capt Bligh - What half cut version are you looking at? If it's been sitting for 5 years, I can understand why he's hesitant. It may need new fuel, change oil, maybe a slow turn to clear cylinders, maybe some atf in the cylinders.

Just to be cautious

Or, you can just fire it up and see what happens ;)
 
Capt Bligh - What half cut version are you looking at? If it's been sitting for 5 years, I can understand why he's hesitant. It may need new fuel, change oil, maybe a slow turn to clear cylinders, maybe some atf in the cylinders.

Just to be cautious

Or, you can just fire it up and see what happens ;)

It is a JDM 96 1HD-FT automatic. I was planning on Marvel mystery oil in the cylinders then hand turning a few revs before attempting to start.
 

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