Registry Diesel Transplanted 80 series Registry (2 Viewers)

[Hanna Quality]

Greg, can I have her back now please?

1. Year and model of the original truck.

1994 FZJ80.

2. Brief details of the Drivetrain that was swapped in.

1HD-T/A442F. More details on the build thread when I get around to it.

3. What went really well with the swap?

6 nuts and its in place. The world really is smaller these days; Dave Stedman of Japan 4x4 was able to help and get those parts that make this as close to factory as possible. That's funny; It really took only three of us, but you know what I mean.

4. What was unexpectedly difficult with the swap?

I leaned on the wizard, who has done a number of these in the last few years. So that was looked after. Even so, and even with an eyes open approach to the time required...it took a lot of time to look after the details. I told those around me I was going to be a wraith for a while...and it was longer.

5. Mods...aside from drivetrain, if any?

Rebuilt injection pump, injectors, turbo (ceramic coated exhaust manifold/hot/cold side), 3" Rage Big Bore exhaust (chromacoated), Wholesale Automatic Billet TC and VB, Madman gauge (not all hooked up yet), Walbro pusher pump.

Slee 4" lift, 255/85R16 Toyo M-55's, ARB Bullbar, Hanna sliders and rear bumper, Cruisin Skidplate, Safari Snorkel.

6. Driving impressions after the swap...including drivability in daily driving (if applicable), highway travel, and, of course, off pavement.

No wheeling yet, so no comment on that. Dump set to 13.5-14psi. I put around 15,000 miles on the FZJ after it came up from California. I've put about 1500 miles on it since the 1HD-T swap. It's subtle, but the best way I can explain this is to say the FZ feels quicker, but the 1HD-T just pulls. And pulls. After a recent road trip through the mountains (same route I had done in the FZJ a number of times) that is the best way I can describe the difference. Wait till it's intercooled and dumping at 20psi!

7. Realistic fuel consumption after the swap...lol.

I had a code on the FZJ, which I did not deal with as I knew the swap was coming. Mainly around town driving was netting 200 miles per fill (75-80 liters). Mainly around town after the 1HD-T was put in is netting around 300 miles per fill (75-80 liters). And I have been hitting it with a heavy foot, to see how it acts. On the recent road trip I went 539 miles, using 104 liters: into the number cruncher and converted 6% for tire size = 11.32l/100kms or 20.78 usmpg or 24.95impg.

8. Five star rating for overall difficulty of the swap: *=relatively easy, *****=don't even attempt it unless you have some real good friends who are really handy.

***** for the wiring interface end of it. Specially if you want it to reflect any resemblance to stock.

9. 2 to 3 pictures of your rig.

#1 = How it looked after coming up from California. The flares are gone (white Linex in its place).
#2 = 1HD-T nested in place.
#3 = Fuel door (notice anything?...other then the decals not complete yet)

10. A link to your own build thread with all the juicy details and pictures.

Will come later.

 

[Hovenator]

Transplant

So bottom line, what would it cost to have a shop/experienced Cruiser guy transplant a 1HD-T and tranny into a 1995 80 series? (I know this is out of my league right now!) What kind of down time for this endeavor?

 

[Vanny]

So bottom line, what would it cost to have a shop/experienced Cruiser guy transplant a 1HD-T and tranny into a 1995 80 series? (I know this is out of my league right now!) What kind of down time for this endeavor?

Maybe if we get them done together Paul you pay full price and I get 50% off. Stores offer those deals all the time. I will pass you half of my swap savings

 

[julstirn]

I am really wanting to dd the 80 and am thinking of doing an diesel swap. What are the cost (I can not do it) of having someone do the swap including the engine and etc. Just kind of trying to get an idea if it is worth it to me. Thanks

 

[Hovenator]

From what I've been hearing it's costly. If you have a later model truck then it's better to get a later model 1HD-t. Like 1993 and up, which for eng and tranny might set one back about 10 grand. I think you can get earlier eng/ tranny's for roughly 6 but they don't mate up as well with the later model truck. I believe the electrical connections are the issue.
So... maybe sell the Cruiser and buy a diesel truck.

 

[justbecause]

So bottom line, what would it cost to have a shop/experienced Cruiser guy transplant a 1HD-T and tranny into a 1995 80 series? (I know this is out of my league right now!) What kind of down time for this endeavor?

Subscribed to see if any answers this. I called slee last week to ask about a v8 in my 94; 15k usd. I would guess that a diesel conversion would cost just a little under twice that.... I dont understand why though. it seems like the same type and scope of work goes into swapping completely different engines, regardless of fuel type. And I can find a diesel dodge a lot cheaper than I can find a donor 100 series to get the 4.7 v8 out of.

 

[ukaviator]

OK guys held off on posting this as it is subjective and could be considered chat (apologies moderators) but here goes.

From the research ive done, and calling reputable Landcruiser shops such as Proffitts, Iron Pig etc etc the cost for a swap is 7-10k for the labor.
The less experience the shop has in doing something like this, the more labor its going to cost as the more time its going to take.
Now a half cut (which is your best option as all the bits and pieces are already there) is going to be another 8-10k, maybe more depending on the condition. You may be able to score an engine for cheaper, but by the time you mess around finding all the right parts and the small **** you dont think about like clips and brackets your going to be into the same money as the half cut (or close) and you would have spend endless hours finding everything.
Now, not knowing the engines history your probably going to want to do a few maintenance items while the motor is out the truck such as water pump, timing belt, BEB's, thermostat, injector overhaul etc etc and you need to get creative finding deals on the web, but plan on another 2-3k in parts plus shipping.
Ive had to get parts from all over the world and shipping is a big deal - for example a clutch from Australia cost me $130! Yes that is shipping alone ... for 1 part!

So there you have it, not having the skills, equipment or time to undertake a project like this can get pricey, and anyone will tell you the $$$'s start to add up fast.
But, even without the labor your still looking at a pretty penny for the engine and trans

Yes you could buy a dodge truck cheaper, sure. Just like you could buy a Honda civic instead of a Porsche. They both get you from A to B, but thats not why we do this.
For me, its a case of having a unique, fully locked capable on and off road vehicle that I can enjoy.

Bottom line is you have to WANT to do it. At the end of the day your going to take a great vehicle and make it a fantastic vehicle.

Hope this helps

 

[justbecause]

OK guys held off on posting this as it is subjective and could be considered chat (apologies moderators) but here goes.

From the research ive done, and calling reputable Landcruiser shops such as Proffitts, Iron Pig etc etc the cost for a swap is 7-10k for the labor.
The less experience the shop has in doing something like this, the more labor its going to cost as the more time its going to take.
Now a half cut (which is your best option as all the bits and pieces are already there) is going to be another 8-10k, maybe more depending on the condition. You may be able to score an engine for cheaper, but by the time you mess around finding all the right parts and the small **** you dont think about like clips and brackets your going to be into the same money as the half cut (or close) and you would have spend endless hours finding everything.
Now, not knowing the engines history your probably going to want to do a few maintenance items while the motor is out the truck such as water pump, timing belt, BEB's, thermostat, injector overhaul etc etc and you need to get creative finding deals on the web, but plan on another 2-3k in parts plus shipping.
Ive had to get parts from all over the world and shipping is a big deal - for example a clutch from Australia cost me $130! Yes that is shipping alone ... for 1 part!

So there you have it, not having the skills, equipment or time to undertake a project like this can get pricey, and anyone will tell you the $$$'s start to add up fast.
But, even without the labor your still looking at a pretty penny for the engine and trans

Yes you could buy a dodge truck cheaper, sure. Just like you could buy a Honda civic instead of a Porsche. They both get you from A to B, but thats not why we do this.
For me, its a case of having a unique, fully locked capable on and off road vehicle that I can enjoy.

Bottom line is you have to WANT to do it. At the end of the day your going to take a great vehicle and make it a fantastic vehicle.

Hope this helps

That is one of the reasons why when i consider diesel, a yota diesel is not on my list of possibilities. My 80 is my DD I can't be stuck waiting for some part that is on the slow boat from Australia....

Sure I may end up with a "civic" not a "porsche" but there are parts available on nearly every street and you can fix them with duck tape and toothpicks. But opinions are like assholes everyone has one and that one is mine


I would really like to know who quoted you 8k.... for 8k of labor and I supply A)my 80 that I want the diesel in , and B) a running parts truck; that is within "budget"( I had to use that term rather loosely.... )

 

[Rastaforte]

Eey, Brothas...perhaps another thread entitled "Thinking of Doing"?
This one be fa "Done".

Me, am only "Doing".
I still....am not "Done".
Yet.

But when I'm "Done"....
ya know...after I do-do-IT....

I'll post the summary here when
Ma Rig,
is Ready.

And, Done.

.....who said it first, "If you have to ask.... "

 

[Rastaforte]

Eey, Brothas...perhaps another thread entitled "Thinking of Doing"?
This one be fa "Done".

Me, am only "Doing".
I still....am not "Done".
Yet.

But when I'm "Done"....
ya know...after I do-do-IT....

I'll post the summary here when
Ma Rig,
is Ready.

And, Done.

.....who said it first, "If you have to ask.... "

...although I would add that in doing the summary it would actually help to just add a couple of pieces of data to what Stone have asked for:

11. Ballpark Original Budget versus Final Actual Cost of Upgrade
12. Months LONGER than expected to complete (it always goes that way, right?)

....ma two measled cents for what it's worth....

 

[Diesel 80]

I know a gentleman that has experience in all kinds of swaps. His rate for labor starts at $4,500 for a petrol to diesel swap. Parts and supplies are extra, this is labor only. A half cut would be the ideal donor, especially for someone who wants to do the swap themselves. My half cut with a 1HD-FT from Australia with 12,000 miles on it shipped to the door was approx $11k. This is a 24 valve, not a 12 & it is a "T" not a "TE" so there is NO electrical to agonize over. You may be able to find a 12V slightly cheaper. Plus with a half cut you get the grill and instrument and misc items for the TD. Hope this helps.

 

[capt bligh]

Have located another half cut, and getting things in order before I start to reduce down time. One thing I haven't seen in this thread is fuel supply issues. I would think that the supply and return lines would need to be larger, and is another pump required?

 

[91Chevota]

My '91 Chevota

[FONT=&quot]1. Year and model of the original truck:
1991 FJ80 with 3FE and A440F2. Drivetrain that was swapped in:
GM 6.2/6.5 turbo diesel with Marks adapter to A440F3. What went really well with the swap?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The engine rebuild went well. The 6.2L and 6.5L diesels are relatively inexpensive and abundant, with numerous options. There is a wide range of forums dedicated to this engine, as well as how to improve performance and reliability, and the military manuals are thorough—making it easy to work on.[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT][FONT=&quot]4. What was unexpectedly difficult with the swap?[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]As a shade-tree mechanic without an dedicated shop to work in, nothing was too easy, but careful planning made it possible. The most challenging aspect of the swap was relying on the marketing hype from Advanced Adapters and Marks 4WD. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]They made it sound so easy, and yet, the “universal” motor mounts from Advanced were never designed to work with the FJ80 frame. I ended up designing my own. Also, the Marks engine-to-transmission bell housing and adapter shipped with a crankshaft adapter 5mm too short—pulling the torque converter off the spline. It required flywheel spacers to correct—the SECOND time I mounted the engine and transmission.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Better step-by-step instructions with some troubleshooting would have been helpful.[FONT=&quot]

5. Mods...aside from drivetrain, if any?[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The diesel engine is a 6.2/6.5 J-type hybrid—nicknamed Frankenstein. The block is a ’91 6.2L, which has been girdled and updated with timing gears. The turbocharger has a Heath boost controller—deleting the vacuum actuator and pump. The injector pump is a ’93-’94, mechanical versions—eliminating the temperamental and expensive PMD. The heads are from a ’96 with the larger valves, and I updated the coolant crossover to allow additional cooling to the rear cylinders.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I installed the hydro-boost system from a diesel Chevy Suburban. This improved braking and eliminated the need to meddle with a vacuum pump.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I developed a two-stage, electric cooling fan system using a BMW temperature sensor tripping one, then both fans as needed. Also installed are manual switch controls to run or override fan operation from the driver’s seat when off-road.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Also installed are three VDO gauges using a modified center console from a FJZ80. The gauges are for transmission temperature, turbo boost, and pyrometer. They are positioned lower than I prefer, but are still easily visible and monitor vitals well.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Other modifications are planned for the suspension and drivetrain, but this is all for now. [FONT=&quot]

[/FONT][FONT=&quot]6. Driving impressions after the swap...including drivability in daily driving (if applicable), highway travel, and, of course, off pavement.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]No off-road excitement yet, but I am pleased with the increase in performance over the 3FE. I have only put a few hundred miles on the vehicle—therefore I am still breaking in the engine and tweaking some trifling items to get it all dialed in. But in spite of the minor hassles, I would still recommend this conversion for ’91-’92 FJ80s with the 3FE and A440F drivetrain. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]One item I noticed was the front end feels heavier. The vehicle had over 280,000 miles before the conversion, and the original suspension is still in place. I suspect once an OME 2” lift with heavier springs is installed this will remedy the way it feels.[FONT=&quot]

7. REALISTIC fuel consumption after the swap.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Prior to the conversion I was getting between 10-12 mpg with the 3FE engine. Now with the 6.2L diesel I am estimating about 17-18 mpg—based on both in-town and highway driving from first 6 gallons of fuel. I expect to get 19-20 mpg once the engine is broke-in and I can increase the turbo boost. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]This may not seem too exciting—considering the recent improvements in fuel economy from current models—but this is a 60-70% increase over the original configuration, and at a fraction of the cost of a new SUV.[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT][FONT=&quot]8. Five star rating for overall difficulty of the swap: *=relatively easy, *****=don't even attempt it unless you have some real good friends who are really handy.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]2-stars for engine rebuild // 3-stars for engine modifications, updates to drivetrain, and installation // 4-stars for integrating the electrical systems (GM to Toyota).[FONT=&quot]

9. Two-to-three pictures of your rig.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]See below.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

10. A link to your own build thread with all the juicy details and pictures.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Will come later.[/FONT]

 

[91Chevota]

Electrical Question

When I began the diesel conversion I wrestled with the issue of using the original GM wiring harness out of the donor vehicle for the engine’s electrical systems, or replace it with new wiring using Toyota’s color coding system. I kept the GM engine wiring and integrated it with the original Toyota wiring.
The only challenge with this is to keep in mind that Toyota often identifies brown, and color combinations with brown, as ground (-), whereas GM uses black. One has to be careful because during the same time period, black, and color combinations using black are often used to designate power (+).
I do have a question though.


The 6.2L and 6.5L GM diesels use a tachometer sending unit which runs off the oil pump drive. I am told that both the 3FE and 6.2L engines used the same type of signal from the sending unit to operate the tachometer.



However, on the Toyota, there is only a single black wire used to send the signal, along with an ignition coil condenser (part 86516-90K01) in the circuit, and the GM sending unit uses two wires—one black, and the other white—one to ground the unit and the other to send a signal to the tachometer.


Has anyone been successful in wiring the GM sending unit to the Toyota Tachometer? If so, did it matter which of the two wires was the ground, and does the external coil condenser stay in the circuit, or is it deleted?



Thanks!

 

[buttonman]

i can't believe it was that many years back when i started asking questions regarding the swap of my 3B engine into my 1991 fj 80 but it is finally running and almost ready for the road. some things i learned: locking hubs from the 1983 bj 60 fit perfectly onto the 91 as does the drive shaft splines even though the yokes are different. the 3b and 5 speed are shorter and required some mods to the tunnel and shifter. hanging the clutch went pretty good. right now i have finished wiring the EDIC controls and still sifting through the glow plug timer relays and ecu. why do all this work for a 4 cylinder diesel? it was free and i have the bj 60 in the back yard to pillage for parts. i will be posting pics as soon as it hits the road later this month.

 

[mountaincoolcruiser]

From what I've been hearing it's costly. If you have a later model truck then it's better to get a later model 1HD-t. Like 1993 and up, which for eng and tranny might set one back about 10 grand. I think you can get earlier eng/ tranny's for roughly 6 but they don't mate up as well with the later model truck. I believe the electrical connections are the issue.
So... maybe sell the Cruiser and buy a diesel truck.

Paul,

we'll talk at work. Cost wise you could save some cash buy sourcing an engine and a manual gearbox. work wise I am finding the swap not to bad so far. It seems the later models have a lot of the diesel stuff incorporated and know which parts are req'd now. I have some ideas where to get you a Manual trans. I am looking at getting a part time case as well. Once I am done this swap and My truck is the nicest in the lot we can do yours. I am sure if you could source out and engine and gearbox combo sheldon could be talked into doing the swap. It is just like his so no unknowns. Thats the only reason he didn't want to do my truck, he wanted to do the swap first on one of their trucks first, before doing it for a client. Overall I think it could be done for 10-12K

 

[Stevesnj]

Found this on YouTube

FZJ80 Landcruiser with Mitsubishi 4D34 Diesel Conversion

FZJ80 Landcruiser with Mitsubishi 4D34 Diesel Conversion - YouTube

 

[jluck]

Hi folks:

With the increasing popularity of diesel engines being transplanted into 80 series Land Cruisers, I thought it would be neat to see everyone's rig all in one spot.

These are my reasons for starting this thread:

1) Lots of people have done transplants with Toyota and non-Toyota diesel engines.

2) It would be neat to read about everyone's rigs and their experiences all in one thread.

3) I am hoping to have everyone include a link to their separate build threads so that a browser can get a quick glimpse/summary of the truck in this Registry thread, and then click on the link of the rig they're interested in and read the more detailed stuff.

4) It would be an easy resource for those who are in the process of planning their own swap...they can just browse through this Registry thread and click on the rigs they are interested in and see if it's for them or not. I know we have a Search engine, but wouldn't this be a neater way for those specifically interested in a swap?

So...this is the format I propose:

1. Year and model of the original truck.
2. Brief details of the Drivetrain that was swapped in.
3. What went really well with the swap?
4. What was unexpectedly difficult with the swap?
5. Mods...aside from drivetrain, if any?
6. Driving impressions after the swap...including drivability in daily driving (if applicable), highway travel, and, of course, off pavement.
7. Realistic fuel consumption after the swap...lol.
8. Five star rating for overall difficulty of the swap: *=relatively easy, *****=don't even attempt it unless you have some real good friends who are really handy.
9. 2 to 3 pictures of your rig.
10. A link to your own build thread with all the juicy details and pictures.

Oh yeah, as much as possible, try to limit the chat in this thread. Either PM the rig owners with the questions that you have, or post them in the owner's build thread.

That's it so far...and I'll put up my post in a little bit.

I think allot of people missed this so I figured a quote was in order. theres a whole other forum to chit chat non sence. let's keep this a registry and a great research tool.

 

[mountaincoolcruiser]

80 series diesel swap

Paul,

I am just about done with my conversion on my 96. working with 70's guy Sheldon. It has been a big wiring pain but not impossible (although) I plan to try and start this weekend. Once done though I will have it all mapped out and sheldon will have access to this.

I believe ( you will have to confirm with sheldon) he charges around 5K for the swap. and I also believe once I have my bugs worked out he will take on the later 80 swaps. so there you have it.

My parts run me around 14k with the Isuzu i bought to take the truck off the road.

Once the Isuzu and extra parts sold will probably be about $11.5K

There you got it straight from the horses mouth.

Mountaincoolcruiser

From what I've been hearing it's costly. If you have a later model truck then it's better to get a later model 1HD-t. Like 1993 and up, which for eng and tranny might set one back about 10 grand. I think you can get earlier eng/ tranny's for roughly 6 but they don't mate up as well with the later model truck. I believe the electrical connections are the issue.
So... maybe sell the Cruiser and buy a diesel truck.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Have located another half cut, and getting things in order before I start to reduce down time. One thing I haven't seen in this thread is fuel supply issues. I would think that the supply and return lines would need to be larger, and is another pump required?

I can answer that precisely.
On the fzj80 you have a fuel pickup with an integrated fuel pump, which connects to a 6mm high pressure (mostly metal) fuel line via banjo fitting.
On a diesel you have a fuel pickup without the pump and a slightly different filter.
The diesel pickup bolts into the exact place as the gasser pickup, gaskets are identical.
The connector for the diesel pickup fits perfectly into the gasser wiring harness. However, you will have some blanks, as there is no fuel pump, and the ground is in a different spot on the connector. It takes 12 seconds to move it to the correc location.
The outlet of the diesel fuel pickup is a 10mm push on fitting (1HZ). On the 1HDT it connects to a 12mm push on fitting at the fuel filter, on the 1HZ to a 10mm push on filter.
I assume the 1HDT fuel pickup would have a 12 mm outlet out of the tank as well, but this part is not available anymore.

So the feed lines are significantly thicker. The return line is the same thickness and simply hooks up.

Cheers,
jan