Did I make a big mistake? New owner of an LX470.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Jul 21, 2016
San Jose, CA

I just purchased a used 2005 LX470 with 53k miles and was very excited about the purchase until I drove it home. During the test drive yesterday, it drove great, no issues. When I was driving it home tonight, I made an abrupt stop at a stop light because my wife was following me home. When the light turned green, I tried to accelerate and there was no power. The car was in limp mode, no cel and barely moving through the intersection. I pulled over, shut the car down and restarted. After restarting it was like nothing happened. Everything was back to normal. I drove home with no issues, and this includes freeway driving.

I just went for another drive and did an abrupt stop to see if I could recreate the problem. The car immediately went into limp mode. I pulled over and restarted the car and it was running normal again. When in limp mode the engine idled normal. I did a few more sudden stops and it seemed to take several seconds to downshift to 1st gear. Then the cel and VSC lights turned on. I don't have a scanner, but plan to take it to the dealer tomorrow.

It seems like two things going on. 1.) Limp mode after sudden stops that goes away after a restart and 2.) a delay downshifting to 1st gear when stopping. If I try to accelerate after a stop, there is a delay and then a thud or thump when the gear engages.

Any ideas where to start diagnosing this? I have found some similar issues in other threads on this forum. I'll continue to research.
I really don't know what the issue could be. But it could be you've some issues from low millage, sitting for long periods. Fuel tank is the biggest area of concern then move up stream in the fuel system i.e. lines, filter, injector etc...
Could it be the air induction pump? not sure if '05 had one, '06 does. It seems that when that pump goes out it does something similar to what you say is happening. Just thinkin.
Not to worry you as it could be a simple thing, but all the same, time may be of the essence if you have any thought of trying to cancel the purchase, if I remember correctly that there may be a couple of days return period if bought from a dealer in California. May be all wrong on this, but if not, you'd have maybe another day to deal with that possibility. Might be time to cram a bit of research in real quick in case it's something expensive to fix like the trans or something like that.
It is odd that there seems to be a connection with the hard braking possibly creating the limp mode.
You may know already that some parts stores like Oreilly and Autozone will sometime loan out code readers if you want to get some quick info. Or buy one for $50. Probably cheaper than having the dealer read it and you'll want one eventually.
From this thread (06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass), seems 2006 is when they introduced AIP.

I see two options....

1. If purchased from a dealer, take it to them and replicate the situation. Maybe they will diagnose and fix it for free. Just from my experience with dealerships, they don't want the reputation of selling a lemon - they should want to fix it.

2. Trying to fix it yourself. My to do list would look something like this: ATF and oil change (a thinner oil like OW-40 might be beneficial), cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body, and replacing the air filter. Throw Seafoam in the gas tank every other fill up for a bit (might want to put it in the oil as well). On top of that, I'd give it a glance over to make sure hoses and seals look in good condition. After doing these things, with Seafoam in the tank: Get the engine/engine oil up to operating temperature (approx. 15-20 minutes of driving), and red line it a couple of times entering a highway. It might very well be something in the system from it sitting for extended periods of time. Try to avoid hard braking for now, and, literally, drive out any bugs.

I had something similar in my old Porsche. It took me 2-3 rounds of what I described above, but it eventually got to normal. It seems counter-intuitive, but putting miles on a car with proper maintenance is better than letting it sit.

I don't think you made a mistake OP. A quick search on ih8mud will prove how reliable these trucks are when properly maintained. Good Luck! Keep us posted.
Last edited:
Does the VSC light come on as well when in Limp Mode?

I bet it has to do with low or not fully bled brake system. Also, in combo with the VSC light, all these components work together to determine wheel speed/spin or lockup.

I had a 2000 LX470 and sprung a leak in the rear driver's side brake line and it shut pretty much the whole vehicle down. It idled, but I had a beeping alarm, limp-mode and VSC and ABS illuminated.

Just a thought. Hopefully (probably) something simple.
i would bet throttle position sensor... if the following happens... engine keeps running (doesn't die) and when you depress the the peddle the revs do not increase... these engines are fly by wire... there is not a throttle cable that is actually hooked to the throttle body... could be nothing more than a bad connection to the position sensor

good luck... a bad deal on a cruiser is usually better than a good deal on anything else....
1. If purchased from a dealer, take it to them and replicate the situation. Maybe they will diagnose and fix it for free. Just from my experience with dealerships, they don't want the reputation of selling a lemon - they should want to fix it.

The good thing is that the problem seems easy enough to replicate. I like option 1 above, or go to local auto part store like Autozone or Advance, and ask them to read the CEL. In my area, they would do this happily for free. You can then post the code here, and the community can help better. Right now without any code, while we are interested to help, we all are guessing.

And congrats! 50K miles is like brand new car considering it is capable to reach 300K without much problem.
Thanks for all the feedback. As long as it isn't a transmission problem, I'm relieved.

Is it safe to drive the vehicle to the dealership, or should I have it towed on a flat bed? The Lexus delership is closer than the Toyota dealership I purchased the vehicle from.
Are the Lexus and Toyota dealer owned by the same group? Even if it is a bit farther I would say take it to the dealer you purchased it from (Unless the Lexus dealer will be handling it as if they sold you the vehicle), especially since mechanically the LC and LX are identical.
there is a confirmed and pending p2714 pressure control solenoid trouble code.

I usually throw DTCs straight into Google to see what they could mean.

P2714 TOYOTA Pressure Control Solenoid 'D' Performance/Stuck Off | AutoCodes

It's a start....

EDIT: I'd also suggest that just because a LC/LX has low mileage, doesn't mean that you shouldn't think about doing some "baseline" maintenance items anyway. A fuel filter might be a good start... it's cheap and VERY easy to replace. Fluids (Transmission, Coolant, Brake fluid) are often neglected and once brake fluid is contaminated, it leads to a lot of expensive corrosion in the braking system. Same with engine coolant.... it doesn't last forever and helps keep seals lubricated, and corrosion at bay.

that does not sound too bad. Could be as simple as flushing the fluid even, if you wanted to try yourself.
Since you bought it from a dealer you are in much better shape than from a PP.
I called the Toyota dealership where I bought the vehicle and they said to bring it back so they can look at it. According to my contract, I have until tomorrow at 9 pm to cancel the deal.

I'm trying to decide if I should take it to the Lexus dealer instead to have them look at it. I understand that this will be money out of pocket, but I know I would get an honest assessment. I'm afraid there is a possibility that The Toyota dealer would do a bandaid fix for now to buy time until the cancellation period has expired.

Should I let Toyota where I bought it look at it? Or take it to Lexus today?
I'd get it in writing from the toyota dealership that they will fix and warranty the fix for a 2 year period if you were not to cancel the deal. IF not, return it and keep shopping. Sometimes things just happen at bad times or there may have been an issue known to the previous owner.
Likely the Lexus guys would communicate with the Toy guys if they're close by so that might not buy you too much objectivity. A true competing independent would be better for that.

If you ask for a special warranty, be sure it's ironclad cuz they will possibly/likely try to weasel out on it. I bought a 100 once with a 2 day return privilege. Found hidden problems, returned it and they would not take it back. Until I started to raise my voice in the showroom stating they were reneging on their contract, in earshot of potential customers. Manager came by right away, tried to shush me and quickly agreed to the refund. Took a long time to get it, though.

(Yes, I am no longer thinking it's all flowers and chocolates out there...)

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom