Diagnosing a charging issue (1 Viewer)

[DCAlbarran]

Ok so the N terminal wire goes no where, which is ok because that VR doesn’t have a connection for it (need a 6-wire VR) so that is why the AMP light doesn’t work (I’m assuming it doesn’t light when you turn the key to the first click which it should). The IG terminal wire on the VR (looks like a solid gray wire) is where the VR senses the voltage on the “system” and tells the alternator via the white/green wire (red wire off the F terminal on the VR) what to put out voltage wise. Where does it go?
View attachment 2225494

Let me go check...ok It’s a bit of a nest and I’m losing light. I’ll have to give it a go tomorrow. I did notice that the 30 amp fuse that occupies the top left position on the left bank of fuses is blown. I don’t have a replacement here, I’ll have to get one tomorrow.

 

[middlecalf]

And that’s a gray wire coming from it, so if that’s the same gray wire to the IG terminal on the VR with a blown fuse that’d make sense why you’re not seeing the uptick in alternator charging voltage. GL hopefully that’s it.

 

[Coolerman]

There is little about your wiring that is stock...
I thought that 1963 was the change over year for the Charge Lamp and the generator. I personally have never seen a 1964 harnesses that had the Charge Lamp.

If that 30 amp fuse is for the IG connection to the Regulator you need to change it to a 15 amp before you have a meltdown. OEM fuse size for the regulator/turn flasher is 15 A.
A stock fuse panel only has 2 30A, 2 15A and 1 5 amp fuses. If you are fusing OEM wiring with larger fuses than OEM, you have a meltdown just waiting to happen.

 

[73FJ40]

There is little about your wiring that is stock...

 

[Ackcruisers]

The VR may not be making a good ground connection through the bed liner material on firewall. I would also give the battery a good charge.

 

[DCAlbarran]

Sunday update: replace the blown fuse, and we have charge again. Holy moly.
I know that the 30-amp fuse is bigger than the stock setup, and I don’t know why a 30 amp fuse was put in, but the electrical work was done prior to my stewardship, and obviously the fuse setup isn’t factory.
I’ll run it for a few days with the 30 amp fuse, then drop down to a 20 amp fuse if there aren’t any other issues.
To be honest, I’m kinda embarrassed that I didn’t think to check the fuse. I think not having the fuse block under the hood threw me off maybe.
Anyways, thanks to the brain trust. I’ll update you guys if there are any further developments

 

[middlecalf]

Awesome. Glad it’s back to getting charge.

A thought on the fuse size - where does that fuse box (left one) get its power from (Gray wire at the top)? Also, with the system charging now, is the idiot charge light still non-functional?

 

[DCAlbarran]

Awesome. Glad it’s back to getting charge.

A thought on the fuse size - where does that fuse box (left one) get its power from (Gray wire at the top)? Also, with the system charging now, is the idiot charge light still non-functional?

I didn’t have much time to mess with it. I’ll give it a better look tomorrow, but I did get to put a voltmeter to it to check the fuse issue.
Newborn twins in addition to our other two has put all hobbies more or less on hold.

 

[middlecalf]

Congrats on the new family members. They are the top priority!

 

[Coolerman]

Congrats on the twins! The very fact you have ANY spare time with newborn twins is amazing...

 

[DCAlbarran]

Congrats on the twins! The very fact you have ANY spare time with newborn twins is amazing...

Thanks. It’s 20-30 mins at a time, if that. Better than nothing!

 

[emac]

Congrats! With four, you may need a good car cover. I remember those years and they went by very fast. I have two that just graduated college and one still in HS, now no one wants to spend time with me!