destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread

[waiting for time]

Hollywood hills would put me pretty close to Marks offroad for any 40 repairs though

You don't need that for the next 2 years at least, prob. more like 10 years if you treat it with the respect it deserves.

 

[JohnnyC]

Hollywood hills would put me pretty close to Marks offroad for any 40 repairs though

he has alot of parts i hear...you may want to try asking for an oem pintle?

 

[destin]

hmmm so truck sat for another 2 weeks as i was busy with work

and the battery was dead again oy \

This means i have something sucking juice somewhere...

Where would i start?

Should i take it and have it rewired professionally down the road or try to figure it out. or jsut drive it more often haha >? This bad for the vehicle?

This place is close by...

Auto Battery & Electric

really do not want to spend tons more money, but if i have a short somewhere that coudl mess with my motor or something that would be bad...

Or if it something that is ok to leave for a while? ...

 

[destin]

read this in another thread:

sound like a good approach>?

Put the ammeter (amp meter) back in series at the batt + terminal, verify there still is a significant drain (> .5 A), then pull ALL the fuses, under the hood and behind the drivers kick panel. Still no change, start disconnecting things, starting w/things the PO changed, add-ons like stereo, trailer wiring, etc.

Just keep at it until the drain goes away and you know the source.
Or take it to the dealer and pay them $85/hr or so to do it.

this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/196840-another-battery-drain-thread.html

 

[destin]

or this: ?

The standard approach is as follows. Get an automotive test light. Pull the negative battery cable and put the test light clip on the - terminal of the battery. Then with the probe end, touch a good piece of bare metal. If you have a short, it should light up. At that point, go pull each of the fuses and repeat with the probe. If it still lights, replace the fuse and move on to the next. Once the light doesn't come on, the problem is in the wiring for that fuse. Once you know that, you'll have to start examining the various items on that circuit and find where the problem is.

 

[waiting for time]

If you have an Am meter go with that one. If the leak is not that big you can start by adding a disconnect switch on the minus side of the batery. This is recomended for any classic car.

 

[destin]

cool, it is supposed to be sunny tomorrow , maybe i play hooky from work and do a quick tune up

I think I will install the shut off switch as a stop gap solution, nice to have regardless
Them i start taking things to task with the ampmeter and see if i can avoid breaking anything haha

I hate electricity :: shakes fists :: :: yells at street lights ::



I am thinking it is something to do with what the PO wire into it to add the electric fuel pump and got knows what else

 

[whitey45]

Destin, I highly doubt you have a draw on such an old rig,there is not much to cause a draw.But if you want to check,grab an ammmeter and set it to miliamps and hook it up in series on the neg side,just disconnect neg bat cable and hook up the ammeter. On this old of a truck,you should have no more than a 10 or 20 miliamp draw and really should have very little. I get les than 50 miliamps on a new porsche with a s***load of electronics to cause a draw.I would guess that your generator just isnt charging enough to hold for 2 weeks,kinda needs to be driven every couple days...Also I have seen where a pos wire can ground just enough to heat up and cause a draw,weird but have seen this happen...

 

[destin]

hmmm so it could be just the generator not charging it enough then eh?

That make sense

If i drive it once a week it is fine, so that does make sense, At idle it is around 12v ish, when above idle it hits 14 steady, you can see the lights dim at stop lights at night though hehe.

How does/could the positive wire ground btw? Just an old wire?
or did pos mean "piece of s***" wire

Thanks man

Destin, I highly doubt you have a draw on such an old rig,there is not much to cause a draw.But if you want to check,grab an ammmeter and set it to miliamps and hook it up in series on the neg side,just disconnect neg bat cable and hook up the ammeter. On this old of a truck,you should have no more than a 10 or 20 miliamp draw and really should have very little. I get les than 50 miliamps on a new porsche with a s***load of electronics to cause a draw.I would guess that your generator just isnt charging enough to hold for 2 weeks,kinda needs to be driven every couple days...Also I have seen where a pos wire can ground just enough to heat up and cause a draw,weird but have seen this happen...

 

[waiting for time]

Just start with checking for leaks, if you can not find significant amps leaking you can always use a trickle charcher to keep the battery in condition. I believe your cruiser is equiped with a generator so dimming lights are normal. It also takes longer to charge the battery then an alternator does. You can mount a, temporary, Volt meter to see what happens while driving.

You've mastered a lot of techniques working on your cruiser so eventualy electricity will be added to that list.

Good luck.

 

[JohnnyC]

dont rule out the simple...is the battery old? even a new one can go down...pull and have an auto parts store test it for free

 

[Living in the Past]

First to do if your busy is just disconnect the battery next time your not going to be using the cruiser for a couple. If the cruiser starts you need to for a problem. If it won't then your problem is probably just a bad battery. Like has been mention unless you have installed clock or a digital radio there is nothing that should be drawing any power. Just pulling the fuses with the cruiser off and seeing if there is even a little spark with let you know if it drawing any power. The last thing I would with a cruiser is install a painless wiring harness. These early cruisers are really simple to repair unless they have burned up.


If we can find someone to host it I can scan my 62 FSM wiring diagrams. The only thing I can think that was changed from 62 to 64 is the option heater in 64. Your doesn't have one so the wiring is probably the same. Not sure if Jim would want to add it to our section or maybe Coolerman. I also have a 66 FSM. Between the two it should cover most early FJ40s. 61 thru 64 were generator, 65 thru 67 had a alternator. The Haynes manual is easy to find (I have four of them) and but goes back to 68. Finding the earlier stuff is a little harder.

 

[JohnnyC]

this is the 1965....thanks for the correction

 

[Living in the Past]

My guess is it's from a 65. Your diagram has a alternator but it has a generator regulaterOption of heater, hazard warning signals and backup light were all standard in 68. Two wiper motors were gone in 68. It shows a cigarette lighter as standard. Don't think my 65 FJ45LP-B had a cigarette lighter standard. It had two aftermarket lighters installed though. It took hours to get the smoke film off the windows. At first I thought it had tinted windowsMaybe it's a 66. But the heater was standard in the US market in 66. Let me check my 66 FSM to see how close it is to this one. My 62 has a lot more than just one diagram. It also sub diagrams.

 

[JohnnyC]

i will have to update that diagram...thanks...so would this be closer to destins 64 ...or is the 64 more in line with the 62 that you got?

 

[Living in the Past]

i will have to update that diagram...thanks...so would this be closer to destins 64 ...or is the 64 more in line with the 62 that you got?

Don't know about wire color but my guess it would be closer to the 62. It's funny shows optional wiring for a reverse light and hazard waring signals but I never seen them on any pre 68. On any of your old lit Johnny does it show anything for these. I seen the PTO winch shown as a option and dealer installed heater and lockout hubs but not anything to do with these. The FJ25 had a reverse light option. Somewhere Jim even had a picture of it in some lit. But a pitcure of a real one has never been found as far as I know.

 

[destin]

awesoem guys!

Hye would you happen to have a higher res version of that wiring diagram?

Hehe i know asking a lot as usual
Today is a sunny one, so looks like i will be wrenching on the cruiser, or priming the back porch finish work with the wifey

 

[destin]

ooooh i know i have the horns disconnected, but i had no idea i had a horn relay... that could DEFINITELY be the drain ya?

Where the hell is the horn relay on a 64/65?

I have never seen one

( i do have just a stray horn wire )

 

[Living in the Past]

It's on the passenger's side in the engine bay. I think it's on the firewall. I think it was moved to the fender when the heater blower was added. Did you did connect the horn becasue they wouldn't shut off? then there a good chance that's your drain. The amp draw of the horn is more then the horn button can handle so a relay is used. I don't want to search back thru a hunderd pages in your thread to find a picture. How about a new picture of the right side of the engine bay. I know the early ones had a metal cover. My 68 was plastic so not sure which your 64 has.

 

[Living in the Past]

Just noticed the diagram Johnny posted looks like from a RHD from where the gauges and ignition switch are located.