Depo retrofit with Morimoto M-Led 2.0’s and Profile Hi-Lens led high beams. (2 Viewers)

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These do fit in the depo housing with the bowls fully adjusted in without altering the housing. I didn’t use the threaded shaft it comes with since it mounts to the bracket. The brackets also put the projectors back far enough form the glass I don’t think there’s any way there will be a clearance when adjusting.

What sealing issues did you have with the lx you did?

Thank you for the link to the breathers.
 
I would also added at least 2 -4 long bolts to really secure the projector in the reflector once you adjust the cutoff. JB Weld is great but the weight of the projector along with vibration from driving the JB Weld may not hold up.
 
These do fit in the depo housing with the bowls fully adjusted in without altering the housing. I didn’t use the threaded shaft it comes with since it mounts to the bracket. The brackets also put the projectors back far enough form the glass I don’t think there’s any way there will be a clearance when adjusting.

What sealing issues did you have with the lx you did?

Thank you for the link to the breathers.
I had to cut a portion of the house for the fan to clear and make a fiberglass patch to extend that area
 
I especially have the same setup. I JB welded as much as possible only leaving the wires and fan exposed. Been on for about 2 yrs now. Wheeled, mud, and rain. .no movent and no moisture in the lens.
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JB welded area.
 
The miniD2S is a modular design with separate projector and bulb. If the bulb dies it can be replaced. In addition, if the projector has an issue it can be replaced. Really bot the projector and the bulb are plug and play and can be reversed if necessary.

The MLED is integrated design with both projector and LED in one package. However, modifications to make the MLED work in the Depo reflector means that if the projector or LED has an issue, the MLED has to be cut out and replaced with the same generation MLED or a new Depo housing has to be purchased and modified again.
 
"But I like the stress. So I cut a huge hole in the reflector bowl."

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Thanks for the tag. Lotta great points and info! Sub'd!
 
The miniD2S is a modular design with separate projector and bulb. If the bulb dies it can be replaced. In addition, if the projector has an issue it can be replaced. Really bot the projector and the bulb are plug and play and can be reversed if necessary.

The MLED is integrated design with both projector and LED in one package. However, modifications to make the MLED work in the Depo reflector means that if the projector or LED has an issue, the MLED has to be cut out and replaced with the same generation MLED or a new Depo housing has to be purchased and modified again.
Good points and something to keep in mind for those on the fence about what projector to get.
 
Did you finish your retrofit?
Nope. Im lazy. I may have time to work on it this weekend.

I have been thinking about your advice about bolts to reinforce the projectors in the bowls and that got me thinking. If I really strengthen the mounting plate I put on, and add the reinforcing bolts you recommend, I’m wonder if it may be strong enough not to have to jb the actual projector to the bowl. Just make it a bolt in which would be replaceable if anything ever went wrong.
 
Hi, don't mean thread hijack. How would one go about using these clear headlights if wanting to use existing LEDs I already have because the openings at the backside are not like the stock ones? On another note, has there been any progress with your headlight retrofit?
 
Hi, don't mean thread hijack. How would one go about using these clear headlights if wanting to use existing LEDs I already have because the openings at the backside are not like the stock ones? On another note, has there been any progress with your headlight retrofit?
You’ll need h4 and h1 leds to fit depo housings.

I did update earlier place holders in the thread with info and pictures on adding some support bolts.
I’m getting close to finishing. It’s been too cold and snowy here to try to go out and aim the lights. That’s my next step. Then see if I can reuse the depo rear dust seals instead of the ones I got from retrofit source. Then drill and add some additional breathers. And then seal it all back up and install. Then final aiming.
 
You’ll need h4 and h1 leds to fit depo housings.

I did update earlier place holders in the thread with info and pictures on adding some support bolts.
I’m getting close to finishing. It’s been too cold and snowy here to try to go out and aim the lights. That’s my next step. Then see if I can reuse the depo rear dust seals instead of the ones I got from retrofit source. Then drill and add some additional breathers. And then seal it all back up and install. Then final aiming.
I have the depo headlight assemblies and I'm looking for the adapter plug and rubber seals that go on the back of the assemblies would you happen to have those being you have modified yours or know of a place to get them from . I have emailed one place with no response yet. I also started a thread asking about these here on mud.
Thanks
Tommy
 
I have the depo headlight assemblies and I'm looking for the adapter plug and rubber seals that go on the back of the assemblies would you happen to have those being you have modified yours or know of a place to get them from . I have emailed one place with no response yet. I also started a thread asking about these here on mud.
Thanks
Tommy
Im hoping to reuse the rubber seals on the back instead of using universal caps.

I got these adapters before I decided to do the retrofit so I returned them. Verify but I think they’re the correct adapters.


 
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This should be a great retrofit if you can get it to fit without hacking up the back of the housing. Getting the D2S to fit without hitting the glass required a few small internal changes and the MLED is longer and has the fan hanging off the bottom. Can you really geat this to fit and seal the back? If you can, make sure to add a couple of breather vents in the back of the housing for additional cooling. I etrofitted the MLED 2.0 into a LX housing and it required a bit of cutting for clearance and was a PITA to seal up. In the end I was disappointed... I was expecting a huge difference in output over the D2S and that was not the case, yes the MLED has a brighter hot spot when measured with a LUX METER but the D2S is pretty impressive and produces a wider beam pattern. There are a lot of thing to like about the MLED but the work required to get it to fit is not paid off in output.


How did you get the mled high beam to trigger properly? Mine goes to high beam as soon as I turn the lights on if I have the high wires connected. This is regardless of whether I have the high beam switched on.

@White Sheep did you wire the mled high beam input of wiring and have it work properly or did you leave the high unplugged?

Thank you.
 
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How did you get the mled high beam to trigger properly? Mine goes to high beam as soon as I turn the lights on if I have the high wires connected. This is regardless of whether I have the high beam switched on.

@White Sheep did you wire the mled high beam input of wiring and have it work properly or did you leave the high unplugged?

Thank you.
Honestly I've never paid attention. Hmm I guess thier either not wired or on all the time like your saying.
 
lights are finally installed and I am very happy with the light output. The high beams are very focused and super bright. The lows have a sharp cutoff and light up the area ahead of the cruiser much better.

I recommend both the MLED 2.0 and Profile Hilens. I do think the mini d2s is a better option for most because it sounds like they would be much easier to install. The mled is a lot of trouble and even with all the mods I did it just barely fit.

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Let's see'em
Updated the posts above with a few shots. I’ll get some more and update when I get the high beams function of the mled working.

Ps thanks again for the assist answering my questions about this combo.
 
Getting the D2S to fit without hitting the glass required a few small internal changes

Any chance you could elaborated on what you did to prevent hitting the glass? I've realized that after aiming mine, both projectors are just barely touching the outer glass, creating a small rub spot. I need to fix it before it becomes a real problem.
 

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