Delta VS Radius Arms (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Basically I'm in the process of upgrading my entire suspension system. Most of the components I plan to use will be stronger than stock (Upper and lower rear arms, steering arm, etc) given that I am way over GVW and will be running 35s. Reliability to me is the whole point of a land cruiser. I guess my concern is that these arms are strong enough for a heavy 80 banging around in the rocks on 35s or doing 40 through the whoomps in Baja. I am certainly no engineer but understand that not everything needs to be massive to be strong. I was wondering what level of use you designed these arms to withstand
 
Basically I'm in the process of upgrading my entire suspension system. Most of the components I plan to use will be stronger than stock (Upper and lower rear arms, steering arm, etc) given that I am way over GVW and will be running 35s. Reliability to me is the whole point of a land cruiser. I guess my concern is that these arms are strong enough for a heavy 80 banging around in the rocks on 35s or doing 40 through the whoomps in Baja. I am certainly no engineer but understand that not everything needs to be massive to be strong. I was wondering what level of use you designed these arms to withstand

Yes, this is what the arms are designed for.
 
I didn’t , how much did you cut out

I had to cut like this:

img_20180106_165527-jpg.1605481
 
I had to cut like this:

img_20180106_165527-jpg.1605481
Yea I cut that front part too on mine , which is how Slee has you cut them, I just pulled the plates and put new arms back in original holes and have had no issues or cracking or loosening, it has worked for me and I know other people
 
Yea I cut that front part too on mine , which is how Slee has you cut them, I just pulled the plates and put new arms back in original holes and have had no issues or cracking or loosening, it has worked for me and I know other people

Yeesh... man... I'd worry about long term fatigue. Maybe the new arms won't torque the plate like the old ones. But, I don't know if I would feel comfortable running them like that.
 
I didn’t , how much did you cut out
Mine have a notch on the bottom of the brackets, so it pushes against the radius arm bracket. They are metal tech, so yours are probably different. I think i had to cut out half the original front hole, but maybe not, ill have to look.

I want these arms, bad, but i have several things i need. Ill contact you guys when the time comes and either remove my plates or get custom arms. Time will tell. I need tires, gull wings and different springs(most likely) before this is up, not to mention my vibration i cannot nail down. I coulda had arms by now if the damn thing wouldn’t have this vibration.
 
@Delta VS

With the 6 inch arms, are they longer than stock? If so how much?

Just wondering because I’m contemplating going with 39/40’s and want to move my axle forward on full compression.

would you make a custom longer set for larger tires?

Would you consider Jonny Joints be an option instead of the bushings?
 
@Delta VS

With the 6 inch arms, are they longer than stock? If so how much?

Just wondering because I’m contemplating going with 39/40’s and want to move my axle forward on full compression.

would you make a custom longer set for larger tires?

Would you consider Jonny Joints be an option instead of the bushings?

They are longer than stock by about 5/8" to keep the stock wheel base when at ride height. We can certainly make custom parts, using whatever kind of parts you want. We prefer FK Rodends, but the choice is yours obviously.
 
I have an OME 2.5" Heavy lift for my FZJ80. Should I get the 2" Radius Arm Set? Or do you go by how much caster I need to correct?

What is the height difference between your Panhard attachment bolts (flat ground to axle side subtracted from flat ground to chassis side)? That would be a start. Have you ever had your rig aligned? A real caster number would help as well. We are going to develop (over time) a chart that will compare various springs and their associated claimed lift heights and caster. This will take time though.
 
They are longer than stock by about 5/8" to keep the stock wheel base when at ride height. We can certainly make custom parts, using whatever kind of parts you want. We prefer FK Rodends, but the choice is yours obviously.

Have you built any with FK Rodends yet?
 
Have you built any with FK Rodends yet?

Nope, we’d be happy to, but that would be a custom thing. We REALLY like FK because they have been long time supporters of Greenspeed Research (one of our side projects), but OEM bushings are pretty rad for this kind of thing.
 
hum
those really look like mine. Should have entered the US market before ...

lighter, strounger, boxed, caster correction available from 2' to 5', OEM bushings or heim joints for flex :)
no steering issue, goes with my panhard brackets I told you about in an other post ;)
 
hum
those really look like mine. Should have entered the US market before ...

lighter, strounger, boxed, caster correction available from 2' to 5', OEM bushings or heim joints for flex :)
no steering issue, goes with my panhard brackets I told you about in an other post ;)

Those look nice. Wider or as wide as factory though? Did you have any binding issues?

What post did you show panhard brackets? Missed it somehow, can you link to pics? Would like to see.
 
Those look nice. Wider or as wide as factory though? Did you have any binding issues?

What post did you show panhard brackets? Missed it somehow, can you link to pics? Would like to see.

Any issue at all :) it’s thinner and stronger and a bit lighter. The length put the axle back to oem specs or longer if the customer asks
I’ll try to find the post about the bracket
 
3dcf90a4-863e-46cc-9717-7a8816ccc2b9-jpeg.1700812


I look at some of the replies here with griding the control arms to fit steering rm clearance, and apart from removing the mold lump of 1/8 inch, you should not be grinding half inch or more out of this component....

Ideally a small bend in the steering arm on the end being forged and not cast is a much better solution than grinding sections out of a forged arm for clearance.

Very easy to do when its off the car doing swivel housings, and bends very easily. Can be done in car but need to strap the wheel down stop it lifting the vehicle, support it with a bottle jack between the swivel studs, and jack it under the end where the tie rod goes to lift it a little.

Done literally hundreds this way.
 
I look at some of the replies here with griding the control arms to fit steering rm clearance, and apart from removing the mold lump of 1/8 inch, you should not be grinding half inch or more out of this component....

Ideally a small bend in the steering arm on the end being forged and not cast is a much better solution than grinding sections out of a forged arm for clearance.

Very easy to do when its off the car doing swivel housings, and bends very easily. Can be done in car but need to strap the wheel down stop it lifting the vehicle, support it with a bottle jack between the swivel studs, and jack it under the end where the tie rod goes to lift it a little.

Done literally hundreds this way.

Or just get a set of the arms available from multiple manufacturers (now aware of them on 3 continents!) that TRULY fix caster, have clearance for steering, accommodate new OEM bushings, are narrower/allow for more flex, keep your wheelbase stock, look better, the list goes on...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom