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Basically I'm in the process of upgrading my entire suspension system. Most of the components I plan to use will be stronger than stock (Upper and lower rear arms, steering arm, etc) given that I am way over GVW and will be running 35s. Reliability to me is the whole point of a land cruiser. I guess my concern is that these arms are strong enough for a heavy 80 banging around in the rocks on 35s or doing 40 through the whoomps in Baja. I am certainly no engineer but understand that not everything needs to be massive to be strong. I was wondering what level of use you designed these arms to withstand
Yes, but then i need to weld back in the part i cut out.You know you can just grind your weld off right? I had caster plates and went to Slee arms no issue
I didn’t , how much did you cut outYes, but then i need to weld back in the part i cut out.
Yea I cut that front part too on mine , which is how Slee has you cut them, I just pulled the plates and put new arms back in original holes and have had no issues or cracking or loosening, it has worked for me and I know other peopleI had to cut like this:
Yea I cut that front part too on mine , which is how Slee has you cut them, I just pulled the plates and put new arms back in original holes and have had no issues or cracking or loosening, it has worked for me and I know other people
Mine have a notch on the bottom of the brackets, so it pushes against the radius arm bracket. They are metal tech, so yours are probably different. I think i had to cut out half the original front hole, but maybe not, ill have to look.I didn’t , how much did you cut out
@Delta VS
With the 6 inch arms, are they longer than stock? If so how much?
Just wondering because I’m contemplating going with 39/40’s and want to move my axle forward on full compression.
would you make a custom longer set for larger tires?
Would you consider Jonny Joints be an option instead of the bushings?
I have an OME 2.5" Heavy lift for my FZJ80. Should I get the 2" Radius Arm Set? Or do you go by how much caster I need to correct?
They are longer than stock by about 5/8" to keep the stock wheel base when at ride height. We can certainly make custom parts, using whatever kind of parts you want. We prefer FK Rodends, but the choice is yours obviously.
Have you built any with FK Rodends yet?
hum
those really look like mine. Should have entered the US market before ...
lighter, strounger, boxed, caster correction available from 2' to 5', OEM bushings or heim joints for flex
no steering issue, goes with my panhard brackets I told you about in an other post
Those look nice. Wider or as wide as factory though? Did you have any binding issues?
What post did you show panhard brackets? Missed it somehow, can you link to pics? Would like to see.
I look at some of the replies here with griding the control arms to fit steering rm clearance, and apart from removing the mold lump of 1/8 inch, you should not be grinding half inch or more out of this component....
Ideally a small bend in the steering arm on the end being forged and not cast is a much better solution than grinding sections out of a forged arm for clearance.
Very easy to do when its off the car doing swivel housings, and bends very easily. Can be done in car but need to strap the wheel down stop it lifting the vehicle, support it with a bottle jack between the swivel studs, and jack it under the end where the tie rod goes to lift it a little.
Done literally hundreds this way.