Delancy's NEW 76 PIGGY ???

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OE cleaner fits!!

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Don't know about the down pipe, yet.

Assuming it does, does anyone else thing the 3F manis and carb may be viable for vintage 2Fs?

An early 2F manifold mates to a late 2F head, which is what I have, so, in theory the 3F set up should fit any 2F head.

While the carb isn't vintage, it's still OE and can be had for a little bit more than a rebuild, with parts support for many years to come.

Thoughts?
 
I love the idea of the improved exhaust manifold, and an intake that won't crack!
When I get my 40 back on the road (yes Pablo, when will that be???), I think I have an exhaust leak to deal with.
You found gaskets available in the US/NA parts system?
Wonder if I could upgrade the manifolds and still run my current Jim C carb?
Would you consolidate p/n's? Carb, intake, exhaust, gaskets? And prices, if you do not mind? I know, if you have to ask...
 
The base of the 2F carb is smaller...

17100-61100 Manifold Assembly $857.00

17172-61070 Manifold Gasket $25.29

17167-61040 Heat Shield, No. 1 $16.01

17168-61020 Heat Shield, No. 2 $18.36

17410-61220 Front Exhaust Assy $327.50

(2) 90917-06039 Exhaust Gasket $4.48

21100-61191 Carb Assy $968.93

21912-61070 Carb Insulator $60.18

Paid $400 for the manifold assembly and downpipe from cruiser loser a few years ago

Think I paid $100 for the insulator from Trollhole.

Bought the carb from Yan....didn't pay $968.00 for, that I do know.
 
Partial Retraction....

There'd be sufficient head work required to mate 3F manifolds to early 2F heads.

Possible??

Yes, and we may try it, just to see how it might turn out, but not a bolt on operation, IF all mounting points the 3F manifolds afford are to be utilized, which seems that they'd need to be.

3F gasket on a '76 2F head.

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OE cleaner fits!!

View attachment 1068148 View attachment 1068149

Don't know about the down pipe, yet.

Assuming it does, does anyone else thing the 3F manis and carb may be viable for vintage 2Fs?

An early 2F manifold mates to a late 2F head, which is what I have, so, in theory the 3F set up should fit any 2F head.

While the carb isn't vintage, it's still OE and can be had for a little bit more than a rebuild, with parts support for many years to come.

Thoughts?

is there an echo in here? seemed rather delayed...
 
Partial Retraction....

There'd be sufficient head work required to mate 3F manifolds to early 2F heads.

Possible??

Yes, and we may try it, just to see how it might turn out, but not a bolt on operation, IF all mounting points the 3F manifolds afford are to be utilized, which seems that they'd need to be.

3F gasket on a '76 2F head.

View attachment 1068872 View attachment 1068873
OK....I have 3FE exhausts and a 2F intake on an 86 2F head. NO Problems other than some clearencing by clarance between the two manifolds themselves. The late 2F head has more bolt holes- and there weren't any misaligned. I vote for the 3F manifold/carb assy and a later 2F head(which is a 3F head...) the biggest thing I see with this mani swap, besides the carb fitment(no big) would be the exhaust needing to be redone as a dual. Again, no big deal- I did that, too. when you say the OE air cleaner fit, did you mean the Old Encrusted air cleaner?
 
But we're talking a late closed chambered 2F head.

What I've done is exactly what you're saying to do.....not a big deal, because as we both know a 85 and up US 2F head is, in fact, damn near identical to a 3F head, with exceptions being a minimal amount of smog provisions in the U.S. variant.

What I was hoping for was a reasonable solution for early, dome top 2Fs, being a 3F mani and carb option, but it appears highly improbable for it to be anymore feasible than rebuilding an early 2F with late flat tops and late 2F head.........and I'm learning that the laws of improbability are as favorable to my benefit as the law of gravity.
 
Before rebuilding a vintage F or 2F, all things considered and in anything less than a restoration that value would be guaranteed to exceed investment, personally I'd opt 1FZ-F for simplicity, or OBDI 1FZ-FE with non-US harness (cheap) and H151F/HF1A (cheap).

The pinnacle of the Land Cruiser F series, 95% of the parts are available in the U.S., will be available for years to come, and there's no contesting performance.

Plus, I'd have had a ton of money left over for P&B and prolly done with the entire pig, by now.

All that said.... Need a good '78 vintage manifold set, non-US carb and non-US dizzy....
 
But we're talking a late closed chambered 2F head.

What I've done is exactly what you're saying to do.....not a big deal, because as we both know a 85 and up US 2F head is, in fact, damn near identical to a 3F head, with exceptions being a minimal amount of smog provisions in the U.S. variant.

What I was hoping for was a reasonable solution for early, dome top 2Fs, being a 3F mani and carb option, but it appears highly improbable for it to be anymore feasible than rebuilding an early 2F with late flat tops and late 2F head.........and I'm learning that the laws of improbability are as favorable to my benefit as the law of gravity.

a result of relegating ones self to domed top pistons;)
I don't see the issue with later pistons in an earlier block using a later head. Am I missing some bit of thorough research you've done regarding this?
 
aren't the 78 manifolds one piece? why won't a later 2F manifold work? same issue as the 3F manifold? I can't remember what my older stuff looked like before I traded it for better working less older stuff
 
Am I missing some bit of thorough research you've done regarding this?

The expense of rebuilding an early 2F with late 2F flat tops, late 2F head, and all associated bits necessary to successfully complete.

Theorized, researched, hypothesized, then attempted to prove viability, which it is very doable, how good of a runner the combo is, only weeks away from being seen.

There are no issues with, beyond expense and dwindling inventory of even late, OS 2F pistons.

We know that flat tops in a vintage block work with the corresponding late head.

We know that the late heads ('85 to end) are a 3F head, and know that the 3F manis and carbs are available, new, and work....even that a late 2F air cleaner on a late 2F head can remain with the 3F parts, without any modifications.

What I now know is this:

If engine vintage doesn't effect value, it's more economical to build a 1FZ-F (standalone carb) than to replicate what I've done on this, with new components that will be available for many, many years to come.

Looking at a '78 2F right now, that the voices in my head are chanting "rebuild, rebuild, rebuild" and it probably bodes better on this Cruiser, from a valuation standpoint, to do so more than the '76 Pig......but hesitant to embark down the same path as this one, merely from a cost/time perspective.

aren't the 78 manifolds one piece? why won't a later 2F manifold work? same issue as the 3F manifold? I can't remember what my older stuff looked like before I traded it for better working less older stuff

'78 manis are the same as all, being mated to one piece.

Later would work, but availability is scare and still require machining.

The 3F seems to be the most logical, but still don't know exactly how the carb will work, what type of mods to the dizzy may be required, or anything about how good in runs.

On the '78 in discussion, like to keep it simple and NOT rebuild the bottom end.

If and when it's determined that's not possible, I'm not so sure that a 1FZ won't be opted
 
you know, I've recently taken to old Coleman lanterns. they're way cheaper to keep OE...
 
Current delimma that I can't seem to find conclusive, archival evidence to direct forward.

Radiator has been deemed trash by a notable, reputable shop that obviously hates Toyota radiators, but don't have any options for a second opinion on.

They have stated that to recore will be a $650 bill and that's if the tanks are usable, which they don't think they are.

I have, at least, one early and one late radiator that didn't pressure test that may have donor tanks, but having a damn hard time stomaching the expense and at a point where originality may be sacrificed, IF I could find answers to the following:

Has anyone ran or know of someone that ran what's stated to be a "drop in" Ron Davis FJ55 radiator on a late 2F pig?

Was it, in fact, "drop in" with no modifications to mounts or hoses?

Did it effectively cool?

With the addition of AC?

Any issues with condenser mounting considering?

Was a new fan shroud required?

Lastly, does anyone have a '76 radiator that's either NIB/NOS or has been recored by a reputable shop they're willing to sell?
 
Has anyone ran or know of someone that ran what's stated to be a "drop in" Ron Davis FJ55 radiator on a late 2F pig?


I would call Ron Davis and have them make you a drop in to your specs, if you send them a unit that fits your hole and all your accessories fit they can match it and or change it to whatever you want. I have not seen a 55 specific Ron Davis radiator but I have seen some other custom Ron Davis units and they all worked as advertised.


What is this "Ron Davis" FJ55 radiator you speak of?


Look towards the bottom of the page.

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/radgallery.htm
 
I have not seen a 55 specific Ron Davis radiator....

They list on the site, but not saying much, since two other potential resources listed as specific, yet they were 40s.

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That said and I didn't even think about, electrolysis should be a major concern, especially with dissimilar materials, one being copper.

Have had many issues with accelerated corrosion when HVACs dump condensate onto either aluminum roof curbs or steel panelling.

Never dawned on me that it'd be an issue in cooling system.

I wouldn't even consider, but want to avoid being held hostage by an overpriced radiator shop.....which seems inevitable.

you'll need someone to tig mounting tabs or a cradle to install it.

Therein lies the issue, since the welding/fabrication pay scale is much, much higher the 800 miles away the work is being done.

Here's another thought, off the cuff.

The late 40s had two radiator sizes, one for AC equipped being ~2" wider.

Wonder if there's any point in trying to figure out of it'd fit?

(Translated:Anyone want to save me from pissing into the wind?)
 

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