Definitive led thread for 80s (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter treerootCO
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I ordered these from the dealer...took like 2 days to come in.
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
- Thread starter
- #463
I recommend buying the LEDs that are SMD for type A and type B. the older style LEDs are not as bright as the incandescent bulbs.
Shift Indicator
(1)Type B - green
(9)Type B - white
or choose your colors
In the pic above, the type A is on the left and the type B is on the right.
The top one is a Type C and your Land Cruiser doesn't use those.
Type A (T3)
8mm or 5/16"
Superbright NEO3-x is the T3 (8mm base 3mm LED)
Type B (T4)
10mm or 3/8"
Superbright NEO4-x is the T4 (10mm base 4mm LED)
Type C (T5)
12mm or 15/32"
Superbright NEO5-x is the T5 (12mm base 5mm LED)
Getting ready to swap my interior lights on my 97. While sourcing the lights, the lumens on these varies. For example, 194s range from 25 - 600. Specifically looking at the dash main illuminating cluster.
voodu3
SILVER Star
I just used these for the main cluster lights SEALIGHT 194 LED Bulbs 6000K White, 168 2825 T10 W5W 3030 Bright LED Chips, Dome Light, Map Light, Door Light, Courtesy Light, License Plate Light, Pack of 10 Amazon product ASIN B07G312DR2
I put Osram LED's for all interior lighting and signal lighting - expensive but very high quality units
Has anybody tried to figure this out? Looking at the EWD shows that the fuel sender operates between 0.2 - 3.0 Ohms. I'm taking a road trip this week. I'm going to rig up some wires connected to this bulb that come out into the cab so that I can take voltage and current measurements at various fuel levels. That should give enough information to figure out the proper value for a parallel resistor to drop the current across the LED below it's lighting threshold when the tank has anything amount more than a gallon of fuel but the current needs to light the LED below a gallon of fuel left. Maybe @george_tlc has some thoughts on this?
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2003
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 4,427
- Location
- Sunnyvale, CA
- Website
- www.george4wd.taskled.com
^ You're looking at the fuel pump resistance. The fuel sender goes from about 3ohms (empty) to 110 ohms (full).
The fuel warning light comes on at around 4-5 gallons (steady on). Obviously depends on if the vehicle is horizontal. I wouldn't want to run it down to 1 gallon - the pump cools due to fuel in the tank. Also, you want enough fuel to be able to pump even at an angle/incline.
cheers,
george.
The fuel warning light comes on at around 4-5 gallons (steady on). Obviously depends on if the vehicle is horizontal. I wouldn't want to run it down to 1 gallon - the pump cools due to fuel in the tank. Also, you want enough fuel to be able to pump even at an angle/incline.
cheers,
george.
oh, interesting. I couldn't find those numbers anywhere. My question is, would a resistor in parallel with the LED do the trick? I *think* (if I understand Ohm's law well enough) that a resistor, of the right value, in parallel with the LED would drop the current low enough to keep it off, until the fuel sender resistance drops low enough to put out enough current to light the LED despite the resistor. I think that's right. @george_tlc what's your opinion? You seem to have more electronics experience than I do.
If the theory works, I suppose I could wire a potentiometer in parallel with the LED on some wires so that it sticks out front where I can twist on it. When the tank gets below 1/4 I'll twist it until the LED lights up to figure out the resistance value needed. Then the trick is trying to figure out how to get a resistor in parallel with those tiny lights, the whole circuitry on the gauge cluster is thin plastic with copper on it so no soldering. Maybe I can get a resistor jammed into the back of the gauge cluster connector across the two wires that feed the fuel warn light? Maybe I can find a ceramic bulb base so that I can put the LED into the base and then solder a resistor across the terminals. Lots of options.
First thing is to figure out if the theory is correct. IIRC, the current through parallel circuits is calculated using 1/R of the parallel circuit in question. So I *think*, to get the current through the LED low enough, the parallel resistor has to have fairly low resistance, less than the LED's resistance (so the current goes there instead of the LED).
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2003
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 4,427
- Location
- Sunnyvale, CA
- Website
- www.george4wd.taskled.com
^ the resistance of the sender is in the FSM (not the EWD).
I wouldn't mess with anything that is in the resistance path of the measurement. The sender works with the gauge to provide a reading, so anything that affects the current flow will affect the gauge reading.
I don't understand why you want to know anything more than is already provided by the gauge and the low fuel light. If you did, then I would be using some active electronics to measure the voltage at the sender 'output' and calibrate that to fuel level.
The fuel gauge and fuel low warning are two separate devices in the tank. The former is a variable resistance, the later a switch.
cheers,
george.
I wouldn't mess with anything that is in the resistance path of the measurement. The sender works with the gauge to provide a reading, so anything that affects the current flow will affect the gauge reading.
I don't understand why you want to know anything more than is already provided by the gauge and the low fuel light. If you did, then I would be using some active electronics to measure the voltage at the sender 'output' and calibrate that to fuel level.
The fuel gauge and fuel low warning are two separate devices in the tank. The former is a variable resistance, the later a switch.
cheers,
george.
All of us that have swapped out the incandescent low fuel light bulb for an LED have a situation where the low fuel light LED is always lit. This is because there's always enough current flowing across the LED to keep it lit. I'm trying to work out a way to illuminate the LED on a low fuel condition only. I was hoping that there's a simple fix like a parallel resistor of the correct value, but you may be correct that it requires a small piece of active electronics that measures the values coming from the sender and then activates the LED on the low fuel condition.
Your simple fix is to just switch your LED back to an incandescent bulb and be done. Is it really that big of a deal to have the low fuel light an LED? I've never had an issue with the OEM low fuel light being insufficiently bright...
You’re right, that is the easy fix. I guess I just like the intellectual challenge of solving it for LEDs.
Does any vender sell a package that replaces all dash instrument lights with LEDs?
Not that I know of. superbrightleds.com has been my best resource overall. Have fun with it!
Been playing with dash colors/bulbs after one of the original yazakis finally died. The old green caps were fused/brittle, so put new bulbs in clear. Didn’t mind the off-white, but they were a little “milky” without the diffuser-effect of caps. Ordered green caps, and also white LEDs to give them a shot. New green isn’t bad, but very green - originals are a little softer & have more yellow. Then tried the LEDs, which I chose because reviews said “I wish they were brighter.” I’m not a fan of bright instrument lights, and they are within my range - brighter, but not crazy. Yeah, dimmer knob, I know.. but I need to address stereo whine first, which it interferes with if not maxed.
The white is nice (link). We’ll see how they last.
Put an LED in the shifter, but too bright for me. Really like them in the map & dome lights, and changed the glove box too.
Probably going to try them in the AC buttons & shift indicator to match, and then adjust my scangauge color too
side effect - I’ve become a pro at pulling this stuff apart, not that it’s hard.
The white is nice (link). We’ll see how they last.
Put an LED in the shifter, but too bright for me. Really like them in the map & dome lights, and changed the glove box too.
Probably going to try them in the AC buttons & shift indicator to match, and then adjust my scangauge color too
side effect - I’ve become a pro at pulling this stuff apart, not that it’s hard.
Last edited:
It would be cool if these sites had a “filter.” Select your vehicle, light combo (dash, climate, domes, etc), color(s), and it fills in the order for you. Not hard to do manually via this thread, though.
Last edited:
lumbee1
Native American
I love the color and uniformity however my big issue with LED's is their reliability. Someone will chime in "but they last 50K hours". Sure they do if supplied with a constant 12V in ideal temperature but most LED's do not like the voltage swings of an alternator which can lead to either blinking or an early death. This usually applies to instrument cluster or center console LED's. I will deal with tiny incandescent bulb in the cluster knowing they will last 20 years.Been playing with dash colors/bulbs after one of the original yazakis finally died. The old green caps were fused/brittle, so put new bulbs in clear. Didn’t mind the off-white, but they were a little “milky” without the diffuser-effect of caps. Ordered green caps, and also white LEDs to give them a shot. New green isn’t bad, but very green - originals are a little softer & have more yellow. Then tried the LEDs, which I chose because reviews said “I wish they were brighter.” I’m not a fan of bright instrument lights, and they are within my range - brighter, but not crazy. Yeah, dimmer knob, I know.. but I need to address stereo whine first, which it interferes with if not maxed.
The white is nice (link). We’ll see how they last.
Put an LED in the shifter, but too bright for me. Really like them in the map & dome lights, and changed the glove box too.
Probably going to try them in the AC buttons & shift indicator to match, and then adjust my scangauge color too
View attachment 3117811
BTW I LOVE LED's. I've replaced all of my door, dome light, ARB bumper clearance, headlights, tailgate light, and reverse lights with LED's. I'm currently working on installing rock lights wirelessly controlled by a 12V remote relay.
Exactly, and I wouldn’t have tried them if they weren’t cheap or easy to change. I expect I’ll be swapping at some point... I wish there were a white incandescent option, but silverstars/etc don’t seem to make much of a difference.
I wonder if a white cap would help at all, both as a diffuser and to mute the warmth. Can’t find any, though...
I wonder if a white cap would help at all, both as a diffuser and to mute the warmth. Can’t find any, though...
My CEL bulb went out when messing with cap colors in the cluster today (I have the 0401 code).. swapped and tested, confirmed. Picked up a couple 74s, but they are ever so slightly larger and the base is thicker, which required more force to push into the base, and then the base was spread apart and no longer fit in the cluster hole. Are we positive those are a 74, or does sylvania have a thicker base? Or is there a “special” 74 for this? Search didn’t help me out.
This is also the case in my shifter. I can’t twist the base in the hole or it squeezes it together and pushes the bulb out a hair, losing connection, but at least I can finagle it into the hole at all.
This is also the case in my shifter. I can’t twist the base in the hole or it squeezes it together and pushes the bulb out a hair, losing connection, but at least I can finagle it into the hole at all.
Last edited:
