DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
You're not going to put a T-case saver on that?
That's good stuff you've got there. Very cool.
Dan
That's good stuff you've got there. Very cool.
Dan
defiling the lv
- Thread starter porten1134
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- Thread starter
- #62
oh god no......of corse i'm gonna put a t case saver on.
ummm whats a t case saver? you talking a plate, or maybe the bolt on crossmember thingy? the 203 portion will bolt to a crossmember via a little rubbery mount. is there some other bracket or something? i suddenly feel like i'm missing something.
ummm whats a t case saver? you talking a plate, or maybe the bolt on crossmember thingy? the 203 portion will bolt to a crossmember via a little rubbery mount. is there some other bracket or something? i suddenly feel like i'm missing something.
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It's a plate that bolts onto the top of the T-case, and reinforces it where the transfer gears from the rear output to the front output are, keeps the torque between the input gears and output gears from cracking the case.
Here's a link to a place that sells them: Transfer Case Saver Kit Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 45 55 - JTOutfitters
I've heard mixed reviews on JT Outfitters as a company, so please don't think I'm pimping their products, I just know they have an easy-to-access image of the plate. IMO you could probably build one yourself in an afternoon if you study the pic, and some install threads here on 'Mud.
Here's a link to a place that sells them: Transfer Case Saver Kit Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 45 55 - JTOutfitters
I've heard mixed reviews on JT Outfitters as a company, so please don't think I'm pimping their products, I just know they have an easy-to-access image of the plate. IMO you could probably build one yourself in an afternoon if you study the pic, and some install threads here on 'Mud.
- Thread starter
- #64
not much going on letely...at least nothing interesting to look/talk about. i took apart the real axle, mostly to paint and inspect. the bearings looked good, no wear and tear on the diff to speak of. i bought some gaskets and seals.....re-assembled the thing. after getting it mostly together i painted it up with KBS. i took off the e-brake, i still gotta clean it up and stick it back in. now I'm toyingy with the idea of modifing it. I still have the transfercase E-brake. i was thinking about a few different applications;
1, tandem e-brake..... i guess you cant have enough braking
2, drift brake.....seeing how you can lock each side independently, i was thinking about two brake petals/levers. one for each side of the rear axle. this way when i'm racing import cars i can drift around corners! naa but seriously..... i was thinking it might be cool to lock one rear wheel and pivot the bus like vehicle around it in a tight corner. the idea sounds cool but i doubt i'll be running this thing through such a tight spot. also by doing that you'd kinda be power-braking the one wheel you dont want to spin. i dont have plans for a split case? (front wheel drive only, if its even possible with a 3 speed transfer case) kinda thing, and it seems like if i locked the back axle it would be really unhappy about locking up one wheel. I've read about some of the more hardcore rigs having something like this. but then the word hardcore comes into play. I'm kind of a poser....i dont know how hardcore i'm gonna get in a LV....so i'm thinkin' the drift brake idea is out.
good ol' Kurt at Cruiser outfitters is porbably expecting a call from me today...I solicited him for a cut and turn. I'm trying to find some virtue in procrastination, i keep ttelling myself stuff like haste makes waste, or patience is a virtue. pretty much anything to justify my procrastination. on that note i pulled out my front axle, and started stripping/cleaning.
this took me way back, back about a year ago when i yanked these axles from under a fj60 in the junkyard. it brough back some not so fond memories of rusted n bolts & nuts, heavy lifting, and hitting myself in the head with a exaust section i was using as a cheater. i also remember noticing the knuckle seals on one side blown to hell, and thick gear oil and knuckle grease squirting out on me,and one wheel not wanting to turn.good times!
as i clean a bit more i got to looking at the spherical thing-things (sorry, the proper name for this part escapes me at the moment) at he end of the axle. instead of being kinda shiny smooth a prett big section is rested and pitted pretty bad. i kind doubt i can re-use it. %@*$%@!!!!! hopefully Kurt has a spare housing. *cross fingers*
1, tandem e-brake..... i guess you cant have enough braking
2, drift brake.....seeing how you can lock each side independently, i was thinking about two brake petals/levers. one for each side of the rear axle. this way when i'm racing import cars i can drift around corners! naa but seriously..... i was thinking it might be cool to lock one rear wheel and pivot the bus like vehicle around it in a tight corner. the idea sounds cool but i doubt i'll be running this thing through such a tight spot. also by doing that you'd kinda be power-braking the one wheel you dont want to spin. i dont have plans for a split case? (front wheel drive only, if its even possible with a 3 speed transfer case) kinda thing, and it seems like if i locked the back axle it would be really unhappy about locking up one wheel. I've read about some of the more hardcore rigs having something like this. but then the word hardcore comes into play. I'm kind of a poser....i dont know how hardcore i'm gonna get in a LV....so i'm thinkin' the drift brake idea is out.
good ol' Kurt at Cruiser outfitters is porbably expecting a call from me today...I solicited him for a cut and turn. I'm trying to find some virtue in procrastination, i keep ttelling myself stuff like haste makes waste, or patience is a virtue. pretty much anything to justify my procrastination. on that note i pulled out my front axle, and started stripping/cleaning.
this took me way back, back about a year ago when i yanked these axles from under a fj60 in the junkyard. it brough back some not so fond memories of rusted n bolts & nuts, heavy lifting, and hitting myself in the head with a exaust section i was using as a cheater. i also remember noticing the knuckle seals on one side blown to hell, and thick gear oil and knuckle grease squirting out on me,and one wheel not wanting to turn.good times!
as i clean a bit more i got to looking at the spherical thing-things (sorry, the proper name for this part escapes me at the moment) at he end of the axle. instead of being kinda shiny smooth a prett big section is rested and pitted pretty bad. i kind doubt i can re-use it. %@*$%@!!!!! hopefully Kurt has a spare housing. *cross fingers*
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The ball joints always get to be pitted, it's hardly an issue. Fact is, I haven't seen one that didn't have some wear to it, that's just the nature of it, the grease picks up dust from the road, and the knuckles rub it into the metal. if the rust is dire, you may be able to go at it with a mild flap-disc and rub the rust right off. I would only be concerned with rust-through.
- Thread starter
- #66
well....it makes me nervous re-using it. the pitting has degregated the material to the point where you can feel a diference in hieght when you rub your finger across. the picture i took is with the back up camera # 2.....hard to show. also if your looking at the picture there is a groove on the right side of the pitted area.very pronounced....once again the rub your finger on it test reveals it.
anyone else wanna weigh in on this?
anyone else wanna weigh in on this?
Those knuckles are like 3/8" thick.. Clean it up and go. I would not worry at all about it feeling rough. Every front axle has road rash in that area. Spend your time on other pieces of your project.
If you're really concerned about the pitting, I would use some 600 grit wet or dry and then emmory cloth only, I would not use a flapper. However, I agree with everyone else: they all get pitted, it is just the nature of the beast. Unless it is really bad, I would just rub a bit of emmory cloth on it and go.
What causes the leaking there is not usually the sweeper seals not having a good fit, it is the seal in the inner axle seal letting gear oil out into the Trunion.
Josh
What causes the leaking there is not usually the sweeper seals not having a good fit, it is the seal in the inner axle seal letting gear oil out into the Trunion.
Josh
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X2
I've heard of and seen alot of different parts in the area of the ball-joints fail; bearings, seals, birfs, hub gears, but never once have I seen a busted housing, and I can only imagine that such a failure might take place in some really hardcore rock stomping, which I really don't think is your destination for this LV, based on the care you're putting into it. Just clean 'em up and go, FrankenLV needs life!
- Thread starter
- #70
hnmmm... perhaps i should have specified my aprehension, i have no doubts as to its strength, just was wondering if i was gonna chew through seals on the back of the knuckle. given the fact that 60 series axles are in short supply around here, maybe i'll chance it. but i'll curse at you both if i gotta keep replacing seals (kidding)
.
this project looks great. i am in awe of your patience and time commitment. i would have given this rig to the wreckers at first sight. its good there are guys like you willing to put in the time and metal. makes me realize the rust on my fj45 isnt so bad.
this project looks great. i am in awe of your patience and time commitment. i would have given this rig to the wreckers at first sight. its good there are guys like you willing to put in the time and metal. makes me realize the rust on my fj45 isnt so bad.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
get these (see the link) and forget about it. seen lots of balls that look like yours (uh, that didn't sound right). you won't have a problem.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ih8mud-com...39142-toyota-knuckle-lifetime-wiper-seal.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ih8mud-com...39142-toyota-knuckle-lifetime-wiper-seal.html
- Thread starter
- #73
ahhh suddenly i feel a lot better!!! thanks for the input guys!!
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
while you're at it, get a set of these. money well spent.
HD Inner Axle Seal, FJ40-FJ62 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
HD Inner Axle Seal, FJ40-FJ62 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
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X2! Worth every penny!
- Thread starter
- #77
operation front end:
so i've been wrestling with what to do about the axle setup.
1, springs...outboard hangers or tighten up spring perches (i made upy mind on this one
2, pinion angle/cut and turn...yeah i have a plan but would welcome more input...more on the plan later
3, wheel base....in this here state you gotta have 100" + of wheelbase to lift it as high as it will be lifted....gotta stretch it a bit.
after reading some posts on the subject of installing 60 series axles on a 45 frame i decided to outboard the hangers. this kinda tied into something else (saginaw conversion) so i tried to kill 2 birds with one biscuit. i spent a good part of the morning just drilling/grinding/pounding/cursing at the bumper horns and spring hangers getting them off. i decided to go with about 29" center to center for the front spring hangers. this should give me plenty of distance on the axle housing to avoid the u bolt covering the diff, but hopefully wont present problems with wheel rub on the springs (at least i hope it will work!). i zipped in some plates on the bottom of the frame, and tacked in the hangers once i had something to measure on. i ended up using some 5"x1"x 3/8" angle iron, it should be strong enough. not wanting them to have too much axial loading i beefed up the sides with some plates to transfer the loads back into the frame. the front drivers got some additional love:
i have a 3 bolt gm saginaw box, all the posts and tech links were for a 4 bolt sag box....so i had to wing it. i made a template for the box, and fiddled with it untill i got it close to where it would all work. i positioned it so the two lower bolts will go through the frame, and the top bolt will be riding high. this seemed to be the best compromise between getting the bolts through and keeping the box at a decent angle for the steering shaft and geting the bolts lined up in a spot where i can drill through without chewing through the frame. i ended up burning through 2 hole-saws and i still havent gotten it all the way through.....maybe i should get better hole saws. once i got the saginaw plate tacked up i finished the reinforcement around it and boxed up the frame a bit. no not quite as much reinforcement as others have done, but i dont see myself stressing it as much as a hardcore 'wheeler would...mostly 'cuz i'm a poser!
so i've been wrestling with what to do about the axle setup.
1, springs...outboard hangers or tighten up spring perches (i made upy mind on this one
2, pinion angle/cut and turn...yeah i have a plan but would welcome more input...more on the plan later
3, wheel base....in this here state you gotta have 100" + of wheelbase to lift it as high as it will be lifted....gotta stretch it a bit.
after reading some posts on the subject of installing 60 series axles on a 45 frame i decided to outboard the hangers. this kinda tied into something else (saginaw conversion) so i tried to kill 2 birds with one biscuit. i spent a good part of the morning just drilling/grinding/pounding/cursing at the bumper horns and spring hangers getting them off. i decided to go with about 29" center to center for the front spring hangers. this should give me plenty of distance on the axle housing to avoid the u bolt covering the diff, but hopefully wont present problems with wheel rub on the springs (at least i hope it will work!). i zipped in some plates on the bottom of the frame, and tacked in the hangers once i had something to measure on. i ended up using some 5"x1"x 3/8" angle iron, it should be strong enough. not wanting them to have too much axial loading i beefed up the sides with some plates to transfer the loads back into the frame. the front drivers got some additional love:
i have a 3 bolt gm saginaw box, all the posts and tech links were for a 4 bolt sag box....so i had to wing it. i made a template for the box, and fiddled with it untill i got it close to where it would all work. i positioned it so the two lower bolts will go through the frame, and the top bolt will be riding high. this seemed to be the best compromise between getting the bolts through and keeping the box at a decent angle for the steering shaft and geting the bolts lined up in a spot where i can drill through without chewing through the frame. i ended up burning through 2 hole-saws and i still havent gotten it all the way through.....maybe i should get better hole saws. once i got the saginaw plate tacked up i finished the reinforcement around it and boxed up the frame a bit. no not quite as much reinforcement as others have done, but i dont see myself stressing it as much as a hardcore 'wheeler would...mostly 'cuz i'm a poser!
- Thread starter
- #78
k so now i gotta try to figure out pinion angle, and here's my plan:
bolt up the springs, get the drive train in place (motor, tranny and x-fer cases). some how get the axles in place without commiting too much in the way of welding the perches. get my driveshaft close to lined up... then measure the angle.i allready stripped down the front so i have no idea what the factory pinion angle was set at (crap)!!! hopefully 'ol kurt at cruiser outfitters is smarter than i am and can help me figure it out if i get him some of the distances and angles. then he can cut and turn to something closer to an exact angle.
i also wanna extend the wheelbase a smidgeon. i need 100" or more. i think i'm pretty close as is, but the only place i can remember where factory spec's for wheelbase is was on treeroots website...root45. every time i try to get on it links me to some doctors office. i think treeroot was having hosting issues. anyone know what the factory wheelbase for the LV is?
the spring perches will allow me to move the wheelbase a bit be putting the center pin on the springs up in an additional hole on the perch. but i gotta call the spring manufacturer and make sure its ok to do this. they were pretty specific about re-mounting the spring hangers in the exact same position, and i cant get the front hangers any further forward unless i extend the frame. the rear i might get to move back a bit on the frame a bit, but i'd like to keep the wheels centered in the wheel well. anyone wanna put their two cents in here?
oh yeah, i got some of the knuckle wiper seals from longfield....awesome!!!
bolt up the springs, get the drive train in place (motor, tranny and x-fer cases). some how get the axles in place without commiting too much in the way of welding the perches. get my driveshaft close to lined up... then measure the angle.i allready stripped down the front so i have no idea what the factory pinion angle was set at (crap)!!! hopefully 'ol kurt at cruiser outfitters is smarter than i am and can help me figure it out if i get him some of the distances and angles. then he can cut and turn to something closer to an exact angle.
i also wanna extend the wheelbase a smidgeon. i need 100" or more. i think i'm pretty close as is, but the only place i can remember where factory spec's for wheelbase is was on treeroots website...root45. every time i try to get on it links me to some doctors office. i think treeroot was having hosting issues. anyone know what the factory wheelbase for the LV is?
the spring perches will allow me to move the wheelbase a bit be putting the center pin on the springs up in an additional hole on the perch. but i gotta call the spring manufacturer and make sure its ok to do this. they were pretty specific about re-mounting the spring hangers in the exact same position, and i cant get the front hangers any further forward unless i extend the frame. the rear i might get to move back a bit on the frame a bit, but i'd like to keep the wheels centered in the wheel well. anyone wanna put their two cents in here?
oh yeah, i got some of the knuckle wiper seals from longfield....awesome!!!
not going to do a shackle reversal?
