Death Wobble from brake rotors? (1 Viewer)

[Mr Green]

So I have completely rebuilt my front end. All new everything, seals bearings, gears, tie rod ends, all suspension bushings (OEM), track bar, steering damper, etc. I did not replace the brakes and rotors as they looked new. I do not know the history of the brakes as this is a new vehicle to me, they could be El Cheapos. It feels like the rotors have warped some since I finished the re-build. I dont know how they warped as I only drove highway without any major braking events, but either way they feel slightly warped as I can now feel it in the brake peddle. Anyway, I have developed a Death Wobble when applying the brakes. It started off subtle, but now it is bad. I am running 37" tires with a Slee 4" lift kit. I have the caster correction plates and everything else to try to do the job correctly. I am 3000 miles from home and trying to get this addressed while on the road. Anyone ever experience this same problem? Currently in Wyoming. Thanks for your input.

 

[ZackR]

Did you confirm the wheel bearing preload was tight enough? Are you hearing any scraping sounds from the front brakes when they are not applied (this would indicate loose wheel bearings)?

Its unlikely the rotors have warped, in most cases "warped" means there is a buildup of brake pad material and it can be worn off with a handful of hard stops. If your wheel bearing preload is good I'd try some hard stops (down to a slow 5mph roll as to avoid depositing more material on the rotor) to see if the brakes clean up.

 

[Mr Green]

I have tightened my wheel bearing again, maybe not enough because it is still doing it.

 

[ajax1]

Wheel bearing pre load like mentioned and balance your tires, could rotate see if that helps

 

[ZackR]

I have tightened my wheel bearing again, maybe not enough because it is still doing it.

If the wheel bearings are tight I'd try some hard stops to scrub the rotors.

 

[Mr Green]

I am tightening the bearing AGAIN. Something weird.... It seems as though I have run out of thread on the wheel bearing nut......

 

[cybrstar]

One thing to check is that the shocks are mounted tightly, especially the front.

All the flexing will eat up the front bushings and cause play.

I know the feeling, I was 1500 miles away with the same issue. Be safe and take it slow.

 

[Mr Green]

Tightened the wheel bearing and no change, still doing it.

 

[ewillis]

Steering arm nuts/bolts tight?

 

[allan man]

According to your description only when applying brakes it wobbles points out
To rotors.

 

[cybrstar]

When you apply the brakes all loose items could cause a shake.

Let’s try frozen caliper, loose king pin nuts to the list.

 

[Andrew Bluemel]

I am currently battling same thing. Mine was doing it before and after I rebuilt the front end on mine. I am throwing on new rotors this weekend and will report back if that fixes it. I have a hunch it will, mine drives fine when not on the brakes

 

[SOCALFJZ80]

I had the same problem. Was "waiting" to do the brakes when i rebuilt the front axle.Needless to Say I ended up blowing out a caliper. Swaped the entire front brakes- Caliper, Rotors and 100 series and pads. No more wobble.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, If the rear has drums, and their out of round, braking will be shakie and dangerous. Mike

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

I am tightening the bearing AGAIN. Something weird.... It seems as though I have run out of thread on the wheel bearing nut......

Sounds like a problem. Is the thrust washer in place? Recheck for looseness of bearings. 25 to 30 lbs on inner nut with 37's should be fine.

 

[sunrk]

43 ft-lb is the spec for wheel bearing torque to correctly set the pre-load. A caliper with a piston not working right can cause shake/wobble under brakes. But also can flogged out panhard (mainly front) and radius arm bushes (these being bad will cause 'diff shake' that accentuates anything else going on). Warped rotors are rare and would probably be the last place to check.

 

[scottryana]

If you are running out of threads on the preload nut, before getting the right bearing preload, you have an issue with your spindle.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

43 ft-lb is the spec for wheel bearing torque to correctly set the pre-load. A caliper with a piston not working right can cause shake/wobble under brakes. But also can flogged out panhard (mainly front) and radius arm bushes (these being bad will cause 'diff shake' that accentuates anything else going on). Warped rotors are rare and would probably be the last place to check.

Correct. But then you are supposed to back off the inner nut and retorque to 48 in lb/ft (that's 4 ft-lbs). Not preferred for 37's. Torque to 25 or 30 ft lbs and let it be.

 

[mudgudgeon]

My first guess would be wheel bearings are loose. I've had wheel wobble that shows up when braking a few times, and it's been wheel bearings every time.

Torque inner nut to 25-30lb, rotate the hub each way a turn out two, retorque.

If it's more of a shudder than a wheel wobble, I'd also suggest a series of hard stops from 50mph, to 10mph in quick succession to re-bed pads and de-glaze rotors

When a problem shows up after doing work, is usually something you've changed is not quite right.
Recheck torque on everything you've touched

 

[Bear80]

How did you seat the wheel bearing races?

As mentioned, you may want to completely remove the hub assembly and inspect the spindle.

Bad rotors/pads will manifest as a pulsation in the pedal, not the steering wheel. Loose wheel bearings will cause a steering wheel shake.

Finally, I suspect tire balance if the above are correct and you only get wobble while braking at certain speeds.