D.I.Y. Door Pannels

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Mar 18, 2012
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Location
Sweeny, TX
I'm looking for some pictures of DIY door panels in a 80 preferably. I'm thinking about using Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic, but I'm open to other ideas. I am not going to recover them and I'm searching for manual window regulators this will be pure utility but I still want it to look decent.

Thanks
 
Watching...... here's a free "bump"!
 
What about 'ALUCOBOND' or similar.

It's a 3mm aluminum/HDPE/aluminium composite board used for building cladding, sign boards etc.
It's light weight, it's strong and is flexible available pre finished in a range of colours, or you can paint it, it's easily cut and machined with woodworking tools.
You can fold it and bend it if you use the correct process. You can screw to it
 
What about 'ALUCOBOND' or similar.

It's a 3mm aluminum/HDPE/aluminium composite board used for building cladding, sign boards etc.
It's light weight, it's strong and is flexible available pre finished in a range of colours, or you can paint it, it's easily cut and machined with woodworking tools.
You can fold it and bend it if you use the correct process. You can screw to it

Is that the same stuff they use on signs? I think I've worked with it a little in the past.

Never mind did a little research not the same stuff I was thinking of. Having trouble finding a ready supply and cost.
 
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Didn't even think about Kydex until now while a cool idea its way out of my budget. I did find 1/8" ABS for $75 a sheet which pretty much tops out my budget.
 
At that price why not just buy some is door panels from a part out, use the shape as a template, and just cut panels out of 1/4 plywood? Then you can at least mount all your door components to the plywood.
 
Alucobond isn't cheap either. Way more expensive than some used door panels. And the edges would be sharp.

FRP is an interesting idea. Though pretty flimsy unless you go fairly thick.
 
I had intended on going as thick as I can find it, but while it has been a while since I've had the door panels off I seem to remember that any hardware that takes a load attaches directly to the door frame. If my memory is accurate all I am really doing is covering the hole.
 
I had intended on going as thick as I can find it, but while it has been a while since I've had the door panels off I seem to remember that any hardware that takes a load attaches directly to the door frame. If my memory is accurate all I am really doing is covering the hole.

True. But something flimsy could flop and rattle. Also, FRP if too thin could break if hit with a knee or something.
 
I might make just one and give it a test run just to see FRP is like $40 a 4x8 sheet at Home Depot. Im thinking a good wack with the dead blow should be worse than any thing I could expect with rough usage. Some foam weatherstripping at the contact points should cut down on rattles or line the whole back in some kind of dynomat knockoff
 
Yes, alucobond is used for signs.

It can be finished with nicely rounded off edges, so no sharp edges

I've often bought off cuts from a sign company
$10 would get me a piece big enough for a door card.
I'm in Australia though, so YMMV
 
I was thinking of doing mine also, I want to get some 1/8" aluminum, and have it water jet cut out, and then replace all of the stock hardware I have a bead roller and I could roll a bead around the edge, to add strength . You should go to a real lumber yard and get MDF water proof it's probably $30 a sheet, and get a cabinet shop with a point to point router and make new ones
 
I also own a nutsert machine which installs threaded inserts. Ok I am on a mission after my swap I am going to make door cards
 
I thought of MDF but I want to stay away from any type of wood and MDF would be heavy. Also considered aluminum but I don't have a way to do it myself. The 80 operates on a very limited budget for the time being.
 

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