DIY Door Panels

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Joined
Feb 27, 2009
Threads
16
Messages
61
Location
Sausalito, CA
I've seen similar door panels in other threads and on other rigs around the interwebs. Figured I'd give it a shot as mine were starting to crack and I needed to replace the exterior door handle anyway.

I started by taking apart the existing driver's side door panel. It has more staples than it needs holding all the soft material onto the chipboard "frame". After taking it all apart, I took the chipboard frame to TAP Plastics for them to use as a template. I bought a sheet of 1/8inch black ABS plastic (common material, any plastic carrier should have it) and had them cut out the outer shape since I don't have the proper tools at home. If you plan on doing all the panels in your FJ, it's more cost effective to just buy a good tool for the job rather than pay the $20ea for getting the panel shape cut. They had a one-day turn around time for the cut work so I picked it up the next day. They did a good job and there was no melting or warping of any kind so if you would rather not deal, maybe the $20 is not too bad.

Once I got the panel back to the house, I drilled/cut out all the openings for mounting hardware, arm rest, door handle, and window crank using the OEM panel as a template to line up the holes. I didn't cut out an opening for the speaker as I've removed mine. Later, I learned that the OEM panel sits about half an inch lower with all the trimming than I would have liked the bare ABS plastic panel to sit. With all the holes done, its just a simple matter of slapping it against the door and using some plastic push-type rivets. I ordered mine on Amazon. Not sure on depth but the hole size you are looking for is 8mm.

I'm very happy with the minimal feel and I like the exposed door tops. Gives it an old school vibe inside to see exposed, painted metal in the cabin. I still have all the other panels to do and I've already decided that I will circle back and redo this one so that it sits higher. Also, all the original door hardware (arm rest, door handle) don't sit flush against the now thinner panel. I'm trying to come up with a clever solution for this but if anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.

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Very nice looking.. Was it hard for you to trace the hole for the mounting spots and what would you consider your time/money worth for them cutting all holes and doors vs buying the proper tool.
 
Looks good and simple as well, I also like the idea of having the top of the door exposed
 
Very nice looking.. Was it hard for you to trace the hole for the mounting spots and what would you consider your time/money worth for them cutting all holes and doors vs buying the proper tool.

I haven't tried cutting the outside yet as this was my first panel. I thought $20 was a bit steep for the five minutes it takes to cut it out on a bandsaw. It might be a little more trying with a jigsaw but TAP Plastic themselves have a youtube video on the different methods of cutting the plastic sheet and jigsaw is an approved method. There are about seven panels I need to do so at $20 a pop, I can find a decent jigsaw. I bought this FJ to tinker with so in my case, it would make sense to use these panels as an excuse to get more tools rather than pay someone to do the work.
 
I've got to do this. I've got some tears in my door panels and the seats are getting recovered. The cloth pattern in the door panels will look out of place with the cordura seats. I can't find a plastic supply place locally though. Any tips on where to look?
 
I've got to do this. I've got some tears in my door panels and the seats are getting recovered. The cloth pattern in the door panels will look out of place with the cordura seats. I can't find a plastic supply place locally though. Any tips on where to look?

Online is your best bet. I think Amazon carries these types of sheets in various sizes.
 
Are those fasteners screw in and metal? Or push in, plastic types? I really want to use screws instead of the plastic push-in type rivets I've been using.

My plan when I get around to doing panels for my doors is to put nutserts in the holes where the retainers went (on the door sheet metal) and use bolts to secure the panels.
 
My plan when I get around to doing panels for my doors is to put nutserts in the holes where the retainers went (on the door sheet metal) and use bolts to secure the panels.

Wow, a nutsert is exactly what I was looking for when I first started this project but I had no idea what it was called and if it actually existed. I'm going to look into doing this. I found a video demoing a handheld version but they claim that anything over 6mm will need to be pneumatic. Unfortunately, the holes in the FJ60 doors are 8mm.

Any tips on which one is a good one to get?
 
Wow, a nutsert is exactly what I was looking for when I first started this project but I had no idea what it was called and if it actually existed. I'm going to look into doing this. I found a video demoing a handheld version but they claim that anything over 6mm will need to be pneumatic. Unfortunately, the holes in the FJ60 doors are 8mm.

Any tips on which one is a good one to get?

Yeah what's shown in the video is really only good for up to 6mm, like they're saying (and even then is a bitch on the wrist to compress them, especially if you have bad CTS like I do. I ordered mine from www.fastenal.com along with an installation tool specifically for that size (can't remember exactly what size though). It's basically a two-nut assembly where one threads onto the other and a bolt that passes through them that you thread the nutsert onto. You place the setup into the hole, hold one nut stationary and turn the other. The action compresses the nutsert in the hole and secures it pretty well. I used those when I put diamond plate on the inside of my tailgate.
 
Yeah what's shown in the video is really only good for up to 6mm, like they're saying (and even then is a bitch on the wrist to compress them, especially if you have bad CTS like I do. I ordered mine from www.fastenal.com along with an installation tool specifically for that size (can't remember exactly what size though). It's basically a two-nut assembly where one threads onto the other and a bolt that passes through them that you thread the nutsert onto. You place the setup into the hole, hold one nut stationary and turn the other. The action compresses the nutsert in the hole and secures it pretty well. I used those when I put diamond plate on the inside of my tailgate.

I've seen a couple of videos of people using the two wrench method instead of the crimping tool. Is this something I could us an impact drill with? Hold one nut with an open-ended wrench and then use a deep socket bit on an impact drill?
 
I've seen a couple of videos of people using the two wrench method instead of the crimping tool. Is this something I could us an impact drill with? Hold one nut with an open-ended wrench and then use a deep socket bit on an impact drill?

Definitely not an impact. This is something you'll have to do by hand so you can feel that it's fully crimped before you end up ripping the threads out of the nutsert (did that once. Took a lot of careful drilling and cussing to get it out). The tool is kind of a two-nut trick, but it's specifically made to install nutserts. I'll try to find mine while I'm out in my shop after class tonight and take a couple pics.
 
Are those fasteners screw in and metal? Or push in, plastic types? I really want to use screws instead of the plastic push-in type rivets I've been using.
They are [URL='http://www.dict.cc/englisch-deutsch/sheet-metal.html']sheet-metal screw[/URL]

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Didnt read it all here but i did this a few years ago,good idea is some thin foam on the abs so it doesnt rattle.
You dont need nutserts,good quality scrivets,mine have held up fine but i got good ones and were a little to tight in the original holes so put a drill @ 1mm larger threw them.
Bought extra bag (100) of scrivets,if i pull them off i put new ones on.


...via IH8MUD app
 
I used a nutsert tool - by hand with M5x0.8mm nuts. Some of the nuts slipped through the holes in the door (the red metal part…) and that was frustrating; I'd have to try it again to make sure it crimped down evenly all around. And/Or add a washer on the top side of the nut to hold it in place, but mostly worked fine. It seems like 6mm would be very doable. Some were hard to crimp by hand but so far it's worked out OK.

Good luck door twin!

TDC.-

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That looks beautiful guys, this is definitely on the list now.

So what are y'all doing for the inner weatherstrip at the top of the door? On my rig it's part of the door panel. Are you replacing the inner door strip or what?
 
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